Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
If any of you are on Instagram, that's where most of my social media attention goes these days. It's so much easier than anything else. My Instagram handle is mstoffregen if you're interested.
FJ60 E-ROD Swap - SRMINT - Stoffregen Motorsports
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Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Let's pick up where I left off.
Finding all the right fittings for the EVAP canister was not easy. I suppose I could have run to a wrecking yard and just cut out a selection from various Chevy trucks and cars, but that would require going somewhere... I tried ordering the fittings online, but the selection was abysmal, so I dug through my boxes of of fuel fittings and found what I needed. Then for the actual hose, I used a piece of rigid air brake hose and bent it to shape using a heat gun. Now we have snap together fittings and a hose that looks OEM.
Finding all the right fittings for the EVAP canister was not easy. I suppose I could have run to a wrecking yard and just cut out a selection from various Chevy trucks and cars, but that would require going somewhere... I tried ordering the fittings online, but the selection was abysmal, so I dug through my boxes of of fuel fittings and found what I needed. Then for the actual hose, I used a piece of rigid air brake hose and bent it to shape using a heat gun. Now we have snap together fittings and a hose that looks OEM.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
The stock A/C drier location is not optimal, as it's sandwiched right between the radiator and the battery. Add a new intake tube and it's just too tight. I have made them fit, but I wanted to try something else this time. The new location ended up being hidden inside the inner fender, near the passenger side headlight.
I'm dropping the truck off at the A/C shop today, so when it's done getting new hoses and a charge, I'll post those pics.
I'm dropping the truck off at the A/C shop today, so when it's done getting new hoses and a charge, I'll post those pics.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
The removable inner fenders of the FJ60 makes it super easy to get to things while fabricating or even for maintenance. Having them out for final assembly is a balancing act. I want them out for maximum accessibility, but at some point they need to go in for final assembly.
A couple items that are easy to work on while they are out are the brake master and the passenger side plumbing.
Here's the new FJ80 brake master and booster along with the Wilwood brake proportioning valve and bracket.
On the other side of the engine bay lies the heater pipes, brake and clutch lines and the fuel line. Those all get prepped before the fenders go back in.
A couple items that are easy to work on while they are out are the brake master and the passenger side plumbing.
Here's the new FJ80 brake master and booster along with the Wilwood brake proportioning valve and bracket.
On the other side of the engine bay lies the heater pipes, brake and clutch lines and the fuel line. Those all get prepped before the fenders go back in.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
With the engine bay ready to go, it's time to install the drivetrain. First is a final fitment of the engine to the trans. The kit from Marks is pretty well thought out, but one area they completely ignore is the dust shield that goes in between the engine and the new bellhousing, so those small parts needed to be fabbed up, and then fastened to the bellhosuing. Before the engine can be fired, the clutch also has to be adjusted. On a stock FJ60, the slave cylinder is auto adjusting, but on the new setup, the basic geometry has to be set first. This really needs to be done with the hydraulics connected, but you can get it close on the workbench.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
I like to use the stock gauges in any swap, but with the modern electronics associated with modern engines, there aren't a lot of places to mount the additional sending units. The OEM Toyota water temp sender gets installed in the passenger side cylinder head, after drilling and tapping the head.
The oil psi sender needs a complex adapter fitting to get to bolt up, but I found one that works great. I had to search long and hard to find this fitting, and I am loathe to give it up...
The oil psi sender needs a complex adapter fitting to get to bolt up, but I found one that works great. I had to search long and hard to find this fitting, and I am loathe to give it up...
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
With the engine, trans, t-case and exhaust all bolted together, this is the last time the engine will be installed.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
With all the parts back from the powder coaters, final assembly is a lot of fun.
Here's the freshly painted radiator wearing it's new fan module.
Here's the freshly painted radiator wearing it's new fan module.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Final install of the drivetrain is a deceiving term. I know many people think that an engine goes in once during a swap, but no, that's so far from the truth. An engine swap usually has the engine in and out of the engine bay half a dozen times or more. Since this isn't my first rodeo, I have cut that down to about three times. But with all the work in between, final install is a deep breath of fresh air. Don't be fooled, at this point, there's still plenty of work to do to get it to run.
To be able to mock up the front driveshaft clearance on the crossmember, the front axle needs to go in. This will be the final installation of the front axle too.
Then the crossmember is mocked in place with the driveshaft and checked for clearance. Most times, a chunk needs to be taken out of the crossmember for drivehsaft clearance.
To be able to mock up the front driveshaft clearance on the crossmember, the front axle needs to go in. This will be the final installation of the front axle too.
Then the crossmember is mocked in place with the driveshaft and checked for clearance. Most times, a chunk needs to be taken out of the crossmember for drivehsaft clearance.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Building the remainder of the exhaust means that the rear axle needs to be in place, but first this one needs to be rebuilt.
During the differential build, I noticed a ton of backlash on one side of the ring gear, but almost none at the opposite side. Removal of the ring gear and meaurements taken revealed a bent carrier. I will say, this truck was beat, so I am not surprised to find yet another hard part in such bad shape. Luckily, I have plenty of these carriers laying around (most people usually install ARB air lockers).
With the rear axle complete with it's new 3.70 gears, final assembly of the axle was done once the housing and diff were already in the truck.
Now I can start on the tailpipe.
During the differential build, I noticed a ton of backlash on one side of the ring gear, but almost none at the opposite side. Removal of the ring gear and meaurements taken revealed a bent carrier. I will say, this truck was beat, so I am not surprised to find yet another hard part in such bad shape. Luckily, I have plenty of these carriers laying around (most people usually install ARB air lockers).
With the rear axle complete with it's new 3.70 gears, final assembly of the axle was done once the housing and diff were already in the truck.
Now I can start on the tailpipe.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
I like to build my exhaust systems with factory Toyota style hangers. You know, the big flexy rubber mounts that allow the exhaust system plenty of wiggle room. These hangers are the best way to ensure a quiet, drone free exhaust.
Here's the first one to go in, right behind the transfer case.
Of course this means making my own hangers for the exhaust pipe. Using 3/8" stainless steel rod, I bend them up with heat to get the right shape, then they are welded to the tubing.
Here's the first one to go in, right behind the transfer case.
Of course this means making my own hangers for the exhaust pipe. Using 3/8" stainless steel rod, I bend them up with heat to get the right shape, then they are welded to the tubing.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
The hanger behind the muffler gets tricky. I want the exhaust system to be easily removable, so the bolt in mid mounted Toyota hanger is used, but the exhaust itself is bolted via another bracket to the OEM rubber isolator. Utilizing all of these original style mounts lets the exhaust expand and contract, and it allows some fore/aft movement, but very little side to side movement of the pipes.
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Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
I have had tire fitment issues with the large 3" diameter tailpipe, so this time, extra bends were made to keep the tailpipe tucked in under the frame at the rear of the tire area.
Getting the large tubing up and over the axle, as well as around the shock is tough.
Getting the large tubing up and over the axle, as well as around the shock is tough.
