Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
BTW- I've been driving the truck and I am sold. This is going to be my next family rig for sure. I need to sell my '83 pickup first. Of course that means I have to finish it...
FJ60 LS Swap - From Oil Burner to Gas V8 - Stoffregen Motorsports
- Thread starter Stoffregen Motorsports
- Start date
Gatordoc
Adventurer
That's a build thread I look forward to reading!
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ChuckB
Expedition Leader
x2!!!
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Thanks guys.
I sent the tach out and I'm working on the A/C system now. It should be done...soon? With pics, I promise.
In the meantime, here's a fourwheeler.com feature on the BJ74 I built a few months ago. Enjoy - http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1611-1987-bj74-land-cruiser-built-to-be-even-more-unique/
I sent the tach out and I'm working on the A/C system now. It should be done...soon? With pics, I promise.
In the meantime, here's a fourwheeler.com feature on the BJ74 I built a few months ago. Enjoy - http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/1611-1987-bj74-land-cruiser-built-to-be-even-more-unique/
Upland80
Adventurer
Nice work...been following this thread as a LS powered 80 is likely in the future. Weren't you going to swap a LS into your 80?
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Thank you.
The FJ80 is up soon, then it is going to Hawaii. It is for a customer.
The FJ80 is up soon, then it is going to Hawaii. It is for a customer.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Trying to figure out where we left off...
This is the detail part of the job. Brackets, wiring, running cables, hoses, making sure everything fits and makes sense all has to be part of the job. If I were building for myself, I would probably leave more loose ends, but you can't do that when the client lives hundreds or even thousands of miles away.
Starting with the underside of the truck. Wiring the VSS was more challenging than expected. I couldn't find a wiring diagram anywhere that showed specifically which wire went to which terminal on the VSS, so I guessed. So far, so good.
My simple fix for the speedo cable. Just disassemble the speedo correction box and rotate one side, making an offset drive adapter. Simple.
Front axle all assembled and ready for install.
That had to be done before I could measure for the driveshafts. This pic shows all the parts of the old shafts. I like the large joints of the LC, but I like CV's even better.
This is the detail part of the job. Brackets, wiring, running cables, hoses, making sure everything fits and makes sense all has to be part of the job. If I were building for myself, I would probably leave more loose ends, but you can't do that when the client lives hundreds or even thousands of miles away.
Starting with the underside of the truck. Wiring the VSS was more challenging than expected. I couldn't find a wiring diagram anywhere that showed specifically which wire went to which terminal on the VSS, so I guessed. So far, so good.
My simple fix for the speedo cable. Just disassemble the speedo correction box and rotate one side, making an offset drive adapter. Simple.
Front axle all assembled and ready for install.
That had to be done before I could measure for the driveshafts. This pic shows all the parts of the old shafts. I like the large joints of the LC, but I like CV's even better.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
For some reason, the front shaft hit the crossmember at full droop. So I took a bite out of it.
All clear on the LC front.
Rear shaft mounted up...
...using new Toyota bolts. Anyone who has ever purchased these knows how expensive they are.
All clear on the LC front.
Rear shaft mounted up...
...using new Toyota bolts. Anyone who has ever purchased these knows how expensive they are.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Finding a place to put the ECU under the dash wash not going to be easy. COnsidering that these units were mounted under the hood of the trucks they came out of, I figured that was where it was going to be. If the truck gets submerged to the point that the ECU gets drenched, he's got bigger problems.
Using a bracket from Novak, and another bracket to allow this one to bolt to the inner fender well, it fits nicely next to the air box. The wires are hidden inside the fender, away from the heat.
I wanted to isolate the bottom of the ECU from vibration, so I used a thin piece of rubber and glued it down.
Clamped all together and bolted in place, it's as good a place as any.
Using a bracket from Novak, and another bracket to allow this one to bolt to the inner fender well, it fits nicely next to the air box. The wires are hidden inside the fender, away from the heat.
I wanted to isolate the bottom of the ECU from vibration, so I used a thin piece of rubber and glued it down.
Clamped all together and bolted in place, it's as good a place as any.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
More later. Got to get the kids off to bed.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
After mounting the ECU, I had to find a place to run the bundle of wires into the cab. The main focus here was to keep the two harnesses separate. Having a standalone engine harness means squat if you hard wire it into the body harness. Future repairs are much easier if the two can be removed independently.
There was a place on the firewall that was perfect, but just on the other side was the HVAC, so placement was crucial. I used my electrical box knockout punch to do the job.
After installing the wiring (using a OEM Toyota grommet), the ARB lines, brake lines, engine temp and oil psi wires all had to be tidied up. I ran the ARB lines in a split loom so avoid chafing.
There was a place on the firewall that was perfect, but just on the other side was the HVAC, so placement was crucial. I used my electrical box knockout punch to do the job.
After installing the wiring (using a OEM Toyota grommet), the ARB lines, brake lines, engine temp and oil psi wires all had to be tidied up. I ran the ARB lines in a split loom so avoid chafing.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Inside the cab, wiring behind the dash was cleaned up from the previous MBZ engine install. We also ran a couple extra independent circuits for the stereo, in-dash USB charger, etc. The tach signal had to be wired into the dash harness and the ARB wiring was re-routed to make it cleaner. Molex connectors were used as needed to keep the harenesses separate and removable.
Stoffregen Motorsports
Explorer
Electrolysis is common with aluminum radiators and you need to be sure that the radiator has a good ground. The LC has rubber isolated radiator mounting, so I made a single ground strap just for the radiator.
NCFJ
Adventurer
I agree 100%. I always install new battery cables with an LS/Vortec swap. 1/0 ground cables to frame, body and engine block. I also run several "jumper" ground cables from frame to body and engine block to body. There are multiple ground lugs on an LS harness. Never enough grounds
Build is looking good!