FJ62 advice, please

[njtaco]

I spent too much time on MUD last night, and learned quite a bit about 1988 FJ62s.

I'm about ready to jump into one for sale sort of locally, $2800 firm.

160K miles, ExPo white, has been sitting for a couple of years. Has a "valve tap" (I have not seen the truck in person yet) but runs, etc. Power windows, locks, air conditioned. Allegedly clean carfax.

Tires are shot.

I'm told it is all original, no roof rack. A PA truck. 2 owners of record, I would be the third.

My intended use is DD, camping, towing a 1500# camping trailer, mild off-roading. It will be our "second" vehicle, not the one to depend on, at least at first. I realize 10-14 MPG is normal, tuned up, on a good day.

I'm expecting to spend $1000 + to remedy deferred maintenance on birfs, fluids, rubber parts, tuneup, brakes etc. I expect tires to be additional.

So the questions...

Is the price even in the right neighborhood? I can be patient...but so far I like the specs on this truck.

Links or advice on what to look for wrong on this particular model? Where is the hidden rust?

The owner knows next to nothing about the truck, except what he read on the web...

Thanks in advance...

 

[Paul Piazza]

Check for rust in the rear wheel wells, around the back windows, front windshield areas. Under the rig around the rear axle may have rust issues as well. I understand the auto trans have challenges as well, so I would check that out.

The price seem right though, just make sure you give her a good look over before you pull the trigger.

You do realize that your gas will most likely be lower towing the trailer more like 10-12 and going over passes will be slow going.

Do not get me wrong I love my 60 weaknesses, but its a great off road rig, but with gas being $3.60a gallon here in CA I drive it less than I want to.

I have owned my share of rigs. A couple of first gen Broncos in fact I traded one for my 60, a Jeep (still own), trucks ect, but I have to say the 60 is my favorite. I wheels as good as my Jeep, and has a hell of alot more room.

Good luck.

PP

 

[ginericLC]

That is a decent price for a 62. I think 62s have always brought a lot more than 60 series. They even usually bring more than FJ80s (91/92s). The 3FE is a good powerplant. It has a stout drivetrain and can provide years of service. Those miles aren't really high for a 62 of this vintage. Most of the ones I see around here are in the 250-280k range.

Rust as stated above. Along the moldings, wheelwells, and in general underneath. I've seen them so bad from Canada that you could put your fist through the frame. Where I live it is rare to see one with any rust.

 

[pismo62]

PP,

I have a 89' fj62 that I have gone thru it and keep it up to date. I really enjoy the truck and it has been in the family since 1991.

The things I would look for are:

1. Rust or previos accidents
2. Can the engine noise be fixed with a tune up? Rebuilds are exspensive
3. The tranny shifts smooth (that tranny usually has to be rebuilt at 250k), and the transfer case works.
4. Do the hubs click in O.K. and are the seals around the knukles leaking.
5. My main concern for you would be the towing. The engine is already underpowered with the automatic. Adding a trailer would be a slow go.

The price is fair, but you will have to do some TLC.

All said and done, it's a great vehicle.:safari-rig:

 

[Mike S]

The FJ60-62 is a great truck.

The transmission is an A440, I believe, and is an HD unit. The only issue I know of is the high price to re-build the tranny is required. The mileage - 160k - is fairly low and well within the usual service range.

A good tune up and smog system maintenance will optimize mileage. Some injector treatment is a good idea.

I owned an FJ60 for some years, and the two modifications that I found most beneficial were OME suspension and the H55F 5 speed. The 5 speed improved mileage and cruising speed, and the suspension transformed both the on and off pavement ride.

Use Toyota parts when ever possible.


Mike

 

[njtaco]

You do realize that your gas will most likely be lower towing the trailer more like 10-12 and going over passes will be slow going.

PP

PP,

I'm counting on poor mileage, especially towing. Um...I live in NJ...basically a sand bar...what is a "pass"? j/k

ginericLC and others,

Are there any particular parts of the frame to look for rust? I figure on checking the frame with a ball-peen hammer, if the seller doesn't freak...

pismo62, regarding:

1. got it...
2. I am capable of tearing into everything from the head gasket up/out at home, and can/will rebuild the short block if absolutely necessary. I doubt it will be, though.
3. Other than "shifting smooth" and leaks, what symptoms should I look for regarding the transmission? Also, the transfer case is a combination of manual linkage and vacuum actuated, right?
4. Hubs I'll check, and leaking around the knuckles...is there anything besides seals to worry about that I can check without disassembling? I plan to re-seal and inspect after purchase whether it needs it or not.
5. After towing with a 454 GMC, then a 2.7L auto Tacoma, I'm familiar with lack of power...I'll just drive slower. Am I correct that the 62 should have 4.10 or 4.11 gears? I figure on 31 inch tires (skinny) max for the first set on this truck...

MikeS,

Toyota parts...I agree, whenever possible. I figure on spending more time on mud to find the best suppliers. TOD has treated me well for Tacoma parts so far.

High price to rebuild transmission...what is considered high? I've come to expect $1200 as a minimum for a rebuild, probably more for a 20 year old Toyota.

I should add that I will install an auxiliary transmission cooler as part of the initial PM. (Look at that...I've already mentally purchased the truck in that sentence... )

Thanks again, all

 

[Paul Piazza]

If you are going to two add that cooler. I think most of the areas have been coverd here. I woulld do a search on rust in Mud.

The rear frame is where I hear most of the complaints. My rig was fairly rust free (part of living in CA) but I did have some minor rus around the rear windows.

I think you have a few good spots to check. I just looked at Craigslist here in CA and there are two fairly nice 60's for $2500.00 with much higher millage. I think you good to go.

PP,

I'm counting on poor mileage, especially towing. Um...I live in NJ...basically a sand bar...what is a "pass"? j/k

ginericLC and others,

Are there any particular parts of the frame to look for rust? I figure on checking the frame with a ball-peen hammer, if the seller doesn't freak...

pismo62, regarding:

1. got it...
2. I am capable of tearing into everything from the head gasket up/out at home, and can/will rebuild the short block if absolutely necessary. I doubt it will be, though.
3. Other than "shifting smooth" and leaks, what symptoms should I look for regarding the transmission? Also, the transfer case is a combination of manual linkage and vacuum actuated, right?
4. Hubs I'll check, and leaking around the knuckles...is there anything besides seals to worry about that I can check without disassembling? I plan to re-seal and inspect after purchase whether it needs it or not.
5. After towing with a 454 GMC, then a 2.7L auto Tacoma, I'm familiar with lack of power...I'll just drive slower. Am I correct that the 62 should have 4.10 or 4.11 gears? I figure on 31 inch tires (skinny) max for the first set on this truck...

MikeS,

Toyota parts...I agree, whenever posssible. I figure on spending more time on mud to find the best suppliers. TOD has treated me well for Tacoma parts so far.

High price to rebuild transmission...what is considered high? I've come to expect $1200 as a minimum for a rebuild, probably more for a 20 year old Toyota.

I should add that I will install an auxiliary transmission cooler as part of the initial PM. (Look at that...I've already mentally purchased the truck in that sentence... )

Thanks again, all

 

[pismo62]

PP,
Sounds like your handy with tools. You should be able to take care of alot of it yourself.

The tranny usually last about 250k, but if you put a cooler on it maybe longer.

Other, than what has been mentioned. I thinks its a great truck.

Good Luck.

 

[njtaco]

Oh, boy...

Wifey and I just spent a half hour on Mud, and she likes the 62s. I'm in trouble now.

Thanks for the replys, all.

 

[archtimb]

PP,

I'm counting on poor mileage, especially towing. Um...I live in NJ...basically a sand bar...what is a "pass"? j/k

ginericLC and others,

Are there any particular parts of the frame to look for rust? I figure on checking the frame with a ball-peen hammer, if the seller doesn't freak...

Behind the rear wheels, inside the frame. Their is a reinforcing piece there inserted into the C channel. Look for rust delamination on this piece. Also check the upper rear shock mount tube.

pismo62, regarding:

1. got it...
2. I am capable of tearing into everything from the head gasket up/out at home, and can/will rebuild the short block if absolutely necessary. I doubt it will be, though.
3. Other than "shifting smooth" and leaks, what symptoms should I look for regarding the transmission? Also, the transfer case is a combination of manual linkage and vacuum actuated, right?
4. Hubs I'll check, and leaking around the knuckles...is there anything besides seals to worry about that I can check without disassembling? I plan to re-seal and inspect after purchase whether it needs it or not.
5. After towing with a 454 GMC, then a 2.7L auto Tacoma, I'm familiar with lack of power...I'll just drive slower. Am I correct that the 62 should have 4.10 or 4.11 gears? I figure on 31 inch tires (skinny) max for the first set on this truck...

Try a valve adjustment and tune-up/timing first. These beasts sound like your great granny's treadle sewing machine the best of times. Probably never been adjusted and just needs some love.
Smooth shifting with little flaring. Feel for torque converter lockup at 46-52 mph. Check and smell the fluid. Get over to the 3FE list on yahole for more info. If the tranny passes these initial tests plan on doing the passive Rodney flush and filter and install a cooler. Manual linkage puts you into 4 low. Vacuum shift button puts you into 4 high.
Probably going to be leaking from the 3FE oil pan, side cover and valve cover. Replace the valve cover gasket when you do the valves. Do the rest when you need to be in there for something else, or if you feel like it.
4:11 stock. With 31's AND a trailer, I would go 4:56. If you are going to tow, definitely do the ATF cooler ASAP.

MikeS,

Toyota parts...I agree, whenever posssible. I figure on spending more time on mud to find the best suppliers. TOD has treated me well for Tacoma parts so far.

High price to rebuild transmission...what is considered high? I've come to expect $1200 as a minimum for a rebuild, probably more for a 20 year old Toyota.

I should add that I will install an auxiliary transmission cooler as part of the initial PM. (Look at that...I've already mentally purchased the truck in that sentence... )

Thanks again, all

Go for it. It sounds like a good truck if it checks out for rust and tranny. An extreme re-build from Rodney in Oz will go $3k+. These seem to be the only rebuilds that last for significant periods of time. For a little less you can go with a new H55 5 speed from Mr. Toyota.

Mitch

 

[njtaco]

Thanks Mitch!

Is the 3FE hydraulic lifters or solid? I'm assuming solid, given the treadle machine reference. (Yea, I know, I should look it up...heck, I'm already shopping for the FSM.)

*edit* nevermind, solid lifters, per Mud*

Rodney flush...I was reading about that this afternoon, and it sounds like a good idea whether she shifts well or not. The whole 60 MPH Drive-to-Park adventure...maybe not!

The H55 is not an option for me. My wife cannot drive a manual transmission. I don't mean she can't learn, she physically cannot.

3 grand for a transmission sounds steep. That is in a crate, right? No core? I guess it beats spending $1500 two or more times.

Are 31's (30.5 tall) too tall to tow a 1500# trailer with factory gears? Stock tires are 29 inches (235/75R15) right? Maybe 30x9.50 would be a better choice. I need to let good advice from many persons sink into my dense cranium for a while before accepting it sometimes.

Thanks again...

 

[pismo62]

njtaco,

I think you probably have some time left on your tranny. Of coarse, I'm just going on what others have gotten out of theirs. But, I would run the tranny until you notice it slipping in reverse or any of the forward gears.

Let me preface my next comment: I have one of the trannies from rodney. It has worked well except for it always wants to shift into overdrive at low rpm 1400 (I have played w/ the kick down cable but still it likes to shift at around 1500 for overdrive), this is very similar to how it was in the stock form, which I never liked. Because you bog down trying to get on the freeway.
Changing the gears would probable help, but I don't want to do it. So 29-31" tire are were its at.

With that said, In hind sight I would have either put a h55 in(which is not a option for you), or a chevy v8 tranny combo, or a diesel outside of california. I would not have rebuilt everything. Expensive and no power.

Enough ranting and raving---I think it's a good deal

 

[archtimb]

You are on the right track...I was going to post up that I forgot to tell you to get the FSM!

I agree that the flush is simply preventative maintenance. It is surprising how long a A440F will last with complete neglect. I wish the Park trick never got published. It is only good for clearing governor obstructions and should only be done if other maintenance has been done and the symptoms indicate governor problems. It will do nothing for valve body or clutch pack problems. Based on my own experience, I also recommend at least checking the kick down cable while the pan is dropped. Undo both ends and, with a helper, see that it moves smoothly in the sheath. After installing one of Rodney's valve bodies and properly adjusting my cable it started sticking. Had to drop the pan again to replace the cable. Preventative maintenance on the cable might not be a bad idea since it is likely stretched at least. Depends on your cost comfort level with your new project. The "while your in there" mode never stops.

Yes, Rodney ships in a crate. THEN you need to send your unit back to CA where he ships in/out of. Not too bad if you are in a western state, but us east coasters get hit. I sent Rodney a bunch of old tranny stuff from here about 4 years ago and I think it was about $250 then. Gonna be higher this year...

You may be fine for your use, depending on how much weight you are carrying. Our rig has 31's and is tricked out for sleeping inside, full roof rack, custom rear bumper with cooler carrier/ladder and spare, front ARB bumper (no winch) and loaded for traveling she would bog uphill and through passes, even kick down to third gear (with the A440F) in a headwind. Just too much weight for the 3FE in a brick. After our first trip west with her I re-geared to 456 and she was much happier although spinning more rpm's on the highway. I have now gone H55 and the Tank is smiling again, even towing. I can (mostly) keep up with my Son in his FJ60 diesel conversion now, but he might be taking pity on an old man with an obsession for an old piece of iron. We were cruising at 80 at many points heading west last year. That's flying for a 3FE!

I occasionally consider putting a little rubber overdrive on (32's) but am hesitant to try it until I get the trailer. I want to run with it for awhile to make sure I am not tipping the scale back the other way again. We will be running a lot less weight on the truck, probably no rack, and the cooler rack/ladder will not need to be on so it may even out. The 32's would be nice for everyday driving when we are not on a trip. What I'm trying to say is, get the truck and run it. See what you need then.

Welcome to the sickness,
Mitch

Thanks Mitch!

Is the 3FE hydraulic lifters or solid? I'm assuming solid, given the treadle machine reference. (Yea, I know, I should look it up...heck, I'm already shopping for the FSM.)

*edit* nevermind, solid lifters, per Mud*

Rodney flush...I was reading about that this afternoon, and it sounds like a good idea whether she shifts well or not. The whole 60 MPH Drive-to-Park adventure...maybe not!

The H55 is not an option for me. My wife cannot drive a manual transmission. I don't mean she can't learn, she physically cannot.

3 grand for a transmission sounds steep. That is in a crate, right? No core? I guess it beats spending $1500 two or more times.

Are 31's (30.5 tall) too tall to tow a 1500# trailer with factory gears? Stock tires are 29 inches (235/75R15) right? Maybe 30x9.50 would be a better choice. I need to let good advice from many persons sink into my dense cranium for a while before accepting it sometimes.

Thanks again...

 

[SLOwag]

Follow the advice in th previous posts for rust locations, even small pin holes of rust can hide much more beneath the surface.

I personally would budget more than $1000 to get this rig up and running and built for expo use, you should see my spread sheet of costs!

Also check the springs, that was the single best investment on my rig, these old springs can be helped with a long Add A Leaf but a full pack is heaven.

I think the price on the rig may be right, just make sure you spend some time going over it.

 

[njtaco]

I personally would budget more than $1000 to get this rig up and running and built for expo use, you should see my spread sheet of costs!

I figure $1000 + in PM, plus tires. Expedition gear and armor is on top of that for sure.

Also check the springs, that was the single best investment on my rig, these old springs can be helped with a long Add A Leaf but a full pack is heaven.

Suspension upgrade is phase two, if I get that far. Four packs of springs and the best shocks I can afford, plus bushings and steering upgrades so I only have to do this once would be the general plan. Much research to do before then. I'm not inclined toward add-a-leafs, though they do have their applications.

Welcome to the sickness.

No kidding...very hard to resist. These are such a classic in my mind, and my wife loves the lines and look of the truck. I think she will be even more excited about upgrades to this truck than she would be to the Tacoma, which is really "just another Toyota" to her.

Guy and Mitch,

Thanks for the information on the trans and tire size.

Bob