Flick's Utility/Offroad Trailer Build

[flick]

Flick's Offroad/Utility Trailer Build

Since this is the forum that I got the inspiration to start a project like this, with NO welding skills I might add, I thought I'd post up some pictures of the process so far.
I've got to give a big thumbs up to my buddy Jason, for the use of his garage, tools, and expertise. Anytime he needs anything I know I'll be there for him.

Who knew that the Jeep would haul steel. Guess that is why it is called a "Utility" vehicle

Squared up frame. Using 2x3 14ga

Axle setup (http://goo.gl/k32N) I went with these just to get the 5x5 bolt pattern that my Jeep has, not for the 3500 lbs.

Mocked up with some 35x12.5" tires mounted

Front tongue started. Installed the receiver stock through the front part of the frame, and tied it to the front cross member.

Thanks to Martyn for the coupler. I could not be happier with it, and everyone that sees it just :drool: at the sight.

Bottom 14ga going on

I didn't get any pictures of it, but there is also some receiver stock going through the back of the frame and to the back cross member. It sticks out less than 1/4".

 

[flick]

Flick's Offroad/Utility Trailer Build - Post 2

Floor done. It has 6 plug welds, 3 per cross member.

Checking height of wall. The posts are 20", so with the top put on it makes the wall 21.5" high.

Side rails up all around

Better view of the side rails, and you can really see the plug welds

The V for the tongue complete

Side skin done

Fender support done

Holes for 2" LED lights drilled (2-1/8" hole size), and fish tape hanging out. Used the fish tape so we could weld on the frame without worrying too much about melting it.

So that is where we are to at this point. We pulled the wire last night for the lights. After some finish grinding, some paint, and the lights installed, this trailer will be functional. Now I'm sure the fun begins.

Next big things up will be tail gate, and lid.

Anyone with ideas for some tie downs on the bottom of the box? I'm trying to keep everything as flat as possible, so that it can still be used as a utility trailer to haul things like dirt or wood. I was thinking about something like this http://goo.gl/vzQt or this http://goo.gl/nGwG for along the top, but still think something along the bottom would be nice.

Comments/Ideas/Suggestions? Feel free.

 

[08whitex]

That looks great. :victory:

 

[08whitex]

Next big things up will be tail gate, and lid.



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[stonehenge]

Floor done. It has 6 plug welds, 3 per cross member.

Checking height of wall. The posts are 20", so with the top put on it makes the wall 21.5" high.

Side rails up all around

Better view of the side rails, and you can really see the plug welds

The V for the tongue complete

Side skin done

Fender support done

Holes for 2" LED lights drilled (2-1/8" hole size), and fish tape hanging out. Used the fish tape so we could weld on the frame without worrying too much about melting it.

So that is where we are to at this point. We pulled the wire last night for the lights. After some finish grinding, some paint, and the lights installed, this trailer will be functional. Now I'm sure the fun begins.

Next big things up will be tail gate, and lid.

Anyone with ideas for some tie downs on the bottom of the box? I'm trying to keep everything as flat as possible, so that it can still be used as a utility trailer to haul things like dirt or wood. I was thinking about something like this http://goo.gl/vzQt or this http://goo.gl/nGwG for along the top, but still think something along the bottom would be nice.

Comments/Ideas/Suggestions? Feel free.

LOL, at first glance i thought it was a dual exhaust. looks good!

 

[ntsqd]

On the first bed iteration of the C.U.T. we had several pieces of 3/4" pipe welded those spaced up and slightly out from the corners of the bed floor. I welded some large washers onto the pipe about every 10" so that knots and binder straps couldn't slide down them and work loose. the current bed is off of a CUCV and came with tie-down loops already in place.

Were I building from scratch I'd give some thought to using boat cleats. Pick them big enough that strap hooks can fit through the opening in the middle. I'd put one each on a plate set at a 45* to the side and front on the inside of that corner at a couple inches up off the floor. And perhaps a third in the middle of the front.

 

[TacoDell]

fish plates where the A frame ties to the tongue ?

 

[flick]

fish plates where the A frame ties to the tongue ?

What are "fish plates?"
The A frame is tied to the tongue with the same 2x3 stock that was used for the frame. We opened up the end of the 2x3 so it would go around the receiver stock, similar to how we opened up the frame to push the receiver stock through to the cross member.

 

[ntsqd]

"Fish Plate" example

Fish plate in magenta:

Normal is to use a strap of the same or less thickness as the wall thickness of the tube. Going thicker than the tube will cause problems down the road. Those mitered tips are not accidental. Try to avoid having weld beads that run perpendicularly across any tube or frame member. Can make them either solid like the rear half, or with rosette holes like the front half to increase the weld bead length.

 

[flick]

So TacoDell/ntsqd are you saying that I need fish plates on the front of the A frame? Or asking if I had done it?

What does everyone think of a tie down system, like the E-Track cargo control system, http://goo.gl/hyEr? Very similar to the other 2 I originally posted, except that I could weld it in.

 

[ntsqd]

With the diagonals essentially butted onto the front of the first cross member there isn't a lot of strength there because there isn't a lot of weld bead length. Adding the plates increases the weld bead length dramatically.

Also, at this point (the front of the first cross member) there is a large bending moment. I would consider adding straps to the bottoms of those joints as well. Adding them to the top won't do much good.
With a heavier trailer good practice is for the tongue diagonals to go under the front cross member and extend out to under the frame rails. This significantly strengthens the tongue to frame junction and adds increased rigidity to that area of large bending moment.

The problem that I see with E-track as you're proposing to use it is cleaning out behind it. Solve how to do that easily and I think that it's one good solution.

 

[flick]

Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the E-Track system mounted vertically at the front and rear, and then maybe on the outside, but we'll see.

I've got it painted a basic black for now, and have all of the 2" LED lights wired up. I'll get some pics taken and posted this week.

 

[flick]

OK, so I have finally taken the time to get some more pics.

The trailer now has lights, a tailgate and a coat of black paint.

The lights, all the way around are the same, 2” Round LED Marker/Clearance Lights. I think they turned out great.

Sitting behind the Jeep. Going to get the trailer some new BFG AT KO tires, so (WylieJK) can have his tires and wheels back

Next up will be to finish out the fenders with some metal, a lid, and probably some expanded metal on the tongue. And after some thought, I think I will be going with the ETrack on the inside mounted horizontally about 1/2 way up the wall. Not sure, but all of this might wait until after my vacation.