if they rub on stock suspension they will rub while lifted under max compression in the same spot.
What he said. Unless you do a drop bracket lift the suspension geometry is exactly the same lifted or not. The wheel still has the same amount of available travel from full droop to full bump stop. If you have to trim to run 255's on stock suspension, you'll have to trim the same amount to run those tires on a lifted suspension. You just may not hit the point of rub as often when lifted because the lifting suspension keeps the tire and truck body further apart. But it will still rub when the suspension is compressed enough in combination with a turned wheel.
Bottom line is go ahead and run the 255's with the stock suspension, trim where needed and beat that pinch weld back. Then you'll never have to worry about rubbing again lifted or otherwise. Obviously the wheels position in the wheel well can move fore and aft depending on your alignment so new rubbing can occur of your alignment pushes the tire further back then it used to be. This is why some people rub when others don't. Or the driver side rubs at full lock but the pass doesn't (My truck does this). You can have good alignment shop correct this if they know what they are doing (which I need to do haha).
Now if you throw in a drop bracket lift or a body lift then everything changes.