Fording depth for a Tacoma

[Hoosier 45]

Hi,
Can anyone give a safe "standard" fording depth for a stock, DC '03. TRD Tacoma.

What components (ranked by water depth) would be at risk & what counter measures can be taken?

Thanks, Martin

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Without measuring I would guess 28", totally shooting from the hip but it is below the top of the tire.

Axles, trans, t-case, ECU should all be dealt with.

 

[Hoosier 45]

I guess the axles, tranny and t-case would involve piping the breathers to a higher point but what do you do about the ECU? I do not plan on doing any landing craft type fording but may be out in Colorado this early summer and some of the trails we are looking at have some frequent river crossing.

 

[4307]

The air intake is in the passenger side fender, about the same height as the tranny and diff breather. Glad I bought a snorkel, saved my motor a few times.

Slap a extended breather on your rear axle, they clog up really easily, mine was seized at the time I did my extended breather. The little breather valves are crappy, we replaced a few axle seals on a number of Toy's in our club this summer, including my front axle seal at the diff. My front diff breather valve was clogged, I need to do something different replace the oem valve cap.

The ecu should be fine

This puddle when measured with a stick was about a foot and a half deep....
Turned out to be deeper :snorkel:. The 4Runner that fallowed me hydro-locked his motor.
Don't trust a stick measurement in puddles... LOL
You can see the trucks drive off a under water ledge.
I was the trail leader in that pack.
After the hydro-locked Runner was winched out spark plugs removed, engine spat water, plugs put back in, got-er mobile, then we turned back. There were a few trucks without snorkels and breathers. We wheel together as a group. Some of the Snorkel guys were tempted, but logic prevailed.
The 4Runner now has a Lexus V8... wonder why?

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFZ4TiiEG7g"]YouTube - SONTT: Mud hole Part 1[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=axpqdjbFqeM&feature=related"]YouTube - SONTT: Mud hole Part 2[/ame]

 

[maxama10]

That second video was painful to watch haha.

 

[4307]

It really depends on how fast you approach the water hazard.

My truck was the lead vehicle. I had a lower speed, than the 4Runner. Looking at the run pics, there was a third truck that went through (it's been a while since that run.. I tend to forget things.) The third truck has the same amount of lift as my truck and the runner. Shawn in the third truck took it slow and easy, risky but he did it. Speed is a major factor, and it really depends on the situation, thats why a lead vehicle should have a winch and snorkel IMHO.

eg...

Me:

$Runner:

I put gloves on when spooling in, my gloves were soaked, i couldn't grip the cable to pull it out. I now have a second pair of gloves.

Shawn studied the trench, and took it slow. Risky! But it goes to show, what a difference speed makes...

 

[Overland Hadley]

Without measuring I would guess 28", totally shooting from the hip but it is below the top of the tire.

Axles, trans, t-case, ECU should all be dealt with.

Any shoot from the hip guess for the Gen 2?

 

[alexrex20]

It really depends on how fast you approach the water hazard.

My truck was the lead vehicle. I had a lower speed, than the 4Runner. Looking at the run pics, there was a third truck that went through (it's been a while since that run.. I tend to forget things.) The third truck has the same amount of lift as my truck and the runner. Shawn in the third truck took it slow and easy, risky but he did it. Speed is a major factor, and it really depends on the situation, thats why a lead vehicle should have a winch and snorkel IMHO.

how much water - if any - did you get in the cab?

 

[lbarcher]

We've had our 01 Prerunner up to the top of the front bumper.
The crossing was on a well established trail with a cobble bottom.

Slow and steady wins the race when you're fording.

 

[4307]

Zero, not-a, nothing. Same with the third truck. As long as you keep moving and the door seals are in good shape, you should be OK. As soon as you stop and sit, water will seep in in way or another. If you create a wake you'll do alright. I had to back up (locker wasn't on) but I kept moving.

That being said, I didn't get away totally unscathed. Later on down the trail, my voltage dropped down to 9V. We put the scangaugeII on (I have one hooked up full time now) to confirm the problem, no codes popped up so that was a good sign. We put a voltage meter on the alternator output, and confirmed the alternator is pushing 9v. I pulled the alt. washed it down (full of pond scum) blasted it with air, put dialectic grease in the socket connector and output terminal stuck it back in... Voila! pushed 13v.

later in season the alt totally died after a few more runs. I replaced it, rebuilding the OEM for a trail spare. The OEM lived long and really hard, so I have no complaints whats so ever, I wanted a second alt anyway for a trail spare.
I've been looking into replacing the new alt with a sealed marine alt. or a Mean Green high output alt to keep the dual batteries completely juiced up.
Never had any other issues with electrical due to fording.
I had a loose winch terminal nut, but **** happens if you bounce down trails..LOL. I do regular bolt checks, but that one was a PITA to get to so, low and behold, that's the one that gave me a blink of grief.

 

[alexrex20]

glad to hear that all the trucks made it home, albeit the 2nd 4runner in worse shape than the rest. :/

my stock alternator lasted 160k miles (or about 260k km in Canadian numbers ) until a good thorough soaking in "pond scum." i had water in the airbox, but luckily no damage to the motor. there was plenty of water in the cab, and the next morning i found i had to replace the power steering pump, a pair of idler pulleys, and the alternator a few weeks later. it was also rebuilt by an alty shop and is kept as a spare.

i've looked into the Mean Green alternators, but i can't justify the cost and the potential inconvenience of warranty. indeed, the warranty is not that great and is at the discretion of Mean Green. for all intents and purposes, i think an AutoZone/Duralast alternator will more than suffice, should i become stranded in the middle of nowhere. currently i'm running a junkyard special; a bargain at only $55.99!

 

[Mr. Leary]

I would say around 30" for a stock truck, assuming a proper bow wave is created. Recommendations and technique below.

Enter slowly and increase speed into the crossing up to the point that there is a wave directly in front of the front bumper. This will create a trough behind it that will keep the water level lower in the engine compartment. Do not shift gears, do not stop, do not linger any longer then you need to.

I would recommend making sure that the rear diff breather is free of debris before entering the water. This will allow it to close properly after it has stabilized the pressure, preventing water ingress into the rear axle.

The air intake is, as mentioned, in the passenger side front fender, above the wheel well. This location is pretty good, but it is important to create the aformentioned bow wave. It is very important to enter the water slowly. A large splash can have bad side effects. These effects include flooding the area where the air intake is located, damaging the radiator due to the weight of the water pushing through the front, and allowing enough time for drivetrain components to equalize pressure before their breathers are submerged.

Now, all that said, you have two more weak points, one of which you can protect yourself from. On the passenger side near the floorboard, below the dash is a wiring inlet. Right below it is where your computer is mounted. I would recommend spreading sealer around this rubber seal to protect your computer from getting wet while in the water. Make sure your weather stripping is clean and free of dirt built up as this will compromise the seal and allow water ingress. If the computer gets wet, you are toast. Don't let it happen. Get in, get out, get back on your way. Don't play around longer then you need to in the water with a stock truck.

The other weak point is your alternator. Toyota likes to put them in a low hanging position. You will probably fry one or more during water crossings. Get used to it, carry a spare. There's not much you can do about it.

 

[4307]

I hear ya, regarding the Mean Greens. I found a used one for $100 on Kijiji for a land Cruiser, but still, that's pricey for used.
A Sontt club member has a friend that makes sealed marine alts for around $200. I want a higher output alt. but you can only put a few more copper winds on before it won't fit in the housing. So he recommended a GM style marine alt. I would have to modify the mount and swap in a Tacoma alt pully. Oh, and modify the 3 pin electrical socket and connector. Not a huge deal.
The guy in our Toy club with the marine alt runs it in his Xterra and never had another issue, so taking his word, this is the way I plan on going.... eventually.
The current replacement Alt is a rebuilt Champion for Tacos.
The pivot part of the housing was a tad tight, but I buffed it with a grinder for a better fit. It was $150 "new" Looked totally new, but whatever, it pushes 14V no problem.
If I end up getting a marine alt built, I'll keep the Champion as a trail spare and the OEM as a work shop back up or sell it as a trail spare, not sure yet.

The "waterproof" alt is more of an explosion proof alternator for marine purposes. Most peak out at 35amps but, the custom guy via a PM of a PM mentioned something to the effect of building a custom 90amp Alt. Big housing but, it can be made to work.

Explosion proof alt example:

 

[Ether]

Nice find on that marine alt! Ive been looking for something like that.

Just a thought, but do you think the the sealed alternator build up heat faster?

~Josh~ :elkgrin:

 

[freeze]

It really should be hub height from a Toyota's/Tread Lightly perspective! However, there are times when we don't walk the obstacle...

Given the electronics in a 4WD these days.. should really be the lowest ECU in the Toyota inside or out. Intake is in the fender and is at a pretty good height.... it's the computers that would need more care these days.

There are so many actuators and electronics down low now with the new Toyota's having the ADD motor or the E-Locker submerged for a little does wreck havoc over time.

Even if you have diff breather's always check your fluids or drop them. you're asking a lot of volume of air to be sucked through a straw in less than a second... the seals will always give way. Diff breather's reduce the amount of water... not eliminate.

When ever possible just avoid water deeper than the hubs if possible.