OTG_1
Well-known member
Most folks say the Pacific Northwest (PNW) starts at Oregon's southern border. However, there is a sizable contigent of people out there who say that PNW begins in the temperate rainforests dominated by coast redwoods in Mendocino County. The region certainly has that flannel, cruncy-granola vibe with dark and dank forests! But do you know how this 100 mile stretch of California coastline ended up with its name? Back in the 1930s when Highway 1 was being constructed, engineers decided to bypass the rugged King Range, a small but impressive subrange of the coastal ranges that thrusts violently upward from the sea. The result of the Mendocino Triple Junction, where the Juan de Fuca, Pacific, and North American Plates meet. Essentially, it's the Cascadia Subduction Zone running ********** dab into the infamous San Andreas Fault
. This decision to route the highway inward, led to the depopulation of local communities, giving the region it's name, the Lost Coast.
Today, the Lost Coast is filled with hearty and quirky individuals-- The back-to-land movement is still strong out this way, while many folks still try to make a living in the marijuana industry (the region is a major producer in the Emerald Triangle with many past CannCup winners), and perhaps the heartiest of the bunch are the folks who make a living from the bounty of the sea. Local establishments like Gyppo Ale House (Shelter Cove) have fresh fish delivered daily from their local fisherman, and sometimes the Fish and Chips was caught just an hour before! The region is home to California's only off the grid public school-- Whale Gulch in northern Mendocino County.
Ever since the mid-90s, I had been eying the King Range. I'd read about the stories of folks driving down to the various beaches like Usal and Big Flat. This was before the King Range Wilderness (2006) was created, closing off large sections of the coast to motorized travel. I really wish I had a 4x4 back then, but I was going into high school with a used Mazda Sedan, and most of my exploring was done on the two wheels of my mountain bike. Looking at the topography of the land and the hiking trails and fire roads that canvassed the landscape, I imagine what it would be like to bomb down Kings Peak (elev 4,091) down to the Pacific, a short 3 miles away!
In 2019, I finished up my MBA. After 4 years of grad school, and effectively going through it while working full time and raising our son, I to spend sometime doing the things I wanted to do (which was a lot less work and school!). Finally, I made it to the Lost Coast, and I've been to half a dozen times since. Sometimes just to camp for a night, and others, like this trip where we drive 300+ miles through the region that I consider my home away from home.
So onto our current adventure! 4 full days of driving and exploring the Lost Coast and Emerald Triangle. A few weeks back I led a group of folks along the 160 mile Lost Coast 4x4 Trail. We'd extend our journey by connecting it with pieces of the Redwood Coast Adventure Trail, which would allow us to explore central Mendocino, including the coastline around Mendocino (township) and Fort Bragg, before shooting northward to the Lost Coast (effectively where the dirt begins). We met up in the old logging town of Willits, and of course it had to be at Lumberjacks restaurant. From Willits we'd head westward toward the coast. Our convoy of vehicles followed the ever meandering pavement of Highway 20 through the redwoods. Hoping to avoid an entire day of nearly pavement, I'd mapped out a short route through the redwood forest of Jackson Demonstration Forest. This was a fantastic warm up for the group, especially for the folks who came from SoCal that aren't quite as used to tall trees and dark forests. My track would lead us to highway 1, and to our first stop fo the day, Big River Beach.
Big River Beach sits just south of the village of Mendocino. It was an exquisite day as the fog had just burned off. And with mild temps in the mid 60s F, it seemed like everyone was down at the beach on this beautiful Wednesday morning. A group was practicing Tai Chi down by the river, and plenty of dogs were running and frollicking in the sand. The Mendocino Coast is hours away from the hustle and bustle of the city and rat race that has consumed the culture of Silicon Valley and the San Francisco Bay Area. The group of strangers was already starting to gel, and everyone seemed to be in a good mood. I proposed we head to Noyo harbor for lunch, with some of the freshest sea food on the coast. Our small convoy hit the road once again, but not before making the small loop around the quaint village of Mendocino. New England style architecture dominates the homes here, and you may wonder why so many of them have water towers. Well, it's because when the town was built, locals had to source their water from the many local creeks (before larger reservoirs like Lake Mendocino were constructed), using these water towers as a form to store their drinking water.
Burning the pavement of highway 1 going north, we reached Fort Bragg, and followed the road down to Noyo Harbor, which continues to be one a working harbor with plenty of boats going in and out. The Harbor also features a small number of restaurants and markets, with the Noyo Fish Company being one of the more popular establishments. So that's where we went, enjoying fish and chips, and shrimp tacos, and a few folks may have treated themself to one of the local ales as well. And really, what better social lubrication is there than some tasty food and a tasty drink?
So far, so good, but we needed to get to our camp for the night. This would entail a 45 minute or so drive up highway 1 up towards Rockport, where Highway 1 veers inland. Except that 45 minute drive was closer to 90 minutes due to the various construction and stoppages we encountered heading north. But finally, we were within a mile of Usal Road, the short, but bumpy 6 mile track that would lead us to our camp for the night, Usal Beach. A large turnout and parking lot proved big enough for our group to pull over and air down. With our tires in full jelly mode, we burned the half mile of pavement to Usal Road and quickly began climbing. We spotted our first glimpses of the Pacific a few short minutes later, but man, were things starting to get bumpy. Coming from a Land Cruiser, sometimes it's hard to tell if the roads are rougher or if its just my truck, a 5 ton hulking beast of steel. But after two years of healthy rainfall, it definitely seemed like Usal Road had seen better times! The final two mile stretch to the beach features some of the best views along this stretch of the Lost Coast. As one descends down the mountain, the dark sand of Usal Beach comes into view. There was perhaps 1 vehicle on the beach, a good sign meaning that not many folks would be out camping that night. A good thing, because Usal Beach, like many places in the West has seen an explosion in use, and not everyone seems to be part of the Leave No Trace / TREAD Lightly crowd. Unfortunately, my favorite creekside camp was occupied. This camp sits just east of the creek on solid ground, with the best legal view of the beach and sunset. I say legal, because driving on the sand/beach is not permitted by CA State Parks, though rarely enforced.
We ended up making camp in the alders adjacent to the creek. While we didn't have an ocean view, a short 30 second walk led to the beach (and the creekside camp I was hoping to get!). The group settled into our rather cozy camp under the trees, which ended up creating a nice shelter for the fog that begin rolling in thick that evening. What's interesting about the Lost Coast is that the marine layer rolls in thick in the evening/night, but by sunrise, it's often already burnt off. Would that be the case for tomorrow? Who knows! But with cooler temps and gloomier weather, we happily settled in around the campfire asking questions, telling stories, and sharing a few laughs.
On day 2 we'll head northward along Usal Road. The big question of the day would be where to camp. In the trees of Tolkan Campground, or would we want to brave the crowds to take advantage of the amenities, and ocean views of Shelter Cove?
Watch the adventure on the YouTubez
Day 1: Willits to Usal Beach


Jackson Demo Forest was a nice softroading warm up!

It was a beautiful day at Big River Beach.

Noyo Fish Company was already packed, and it wasn't even 12pm yet!

Solid shrimp tacos, and reasonably priced given how expensive food is these days. Solid B+

Getting closer to Usal Beach!

The views only get better as you head north!

This is the creekside camp I was hoping we'd snag on a Wednesday, but it was taken.

Usal Beach, free of vehicles like it should be.

Camp under the alders.
Today, the Lost Coast is filled with hearty and quirky individuals-- The back-to-land movement is still strong out this way, while many folks still try to make a living in the marijuana industry (the region is a major producer in the Emerald Triangle with many past CannCup winners), and perhaps the heartiest of the bunch are the folks who make a living from the bounty of the sea. Local establishments like Gyppo Ale House (Shelter Cove) have fresh fish delivered daily from their local fisherman, and sometimes the Fish and Chips was caught just an hour before! The region is home to California's only off the grid public school-- Whale Gulch in northern Mendocino County.
Ever since the mid-90s, I had been eying the King Range. I'd read about the stories of folks driving down to the various beaches like Usal and Big Flat. This was before the King Range Wilderness (2006) was created, closing off large sections of the coast to motorized travel. I really wish I had a 4x4 back then, but I was going into high school with a used Mazda Sedan, and most of my exploring was done on the two wheels of my mountain bike. Looking at the topography of the land and the hiking trails and fire roads that canvassed the landscape, I imagine what it would be like to bomb down Kings Peak (elev 4,091) down to the Pacific, a short 3 miles away!
In 2019, I finished up my MBA. After 4 years of grad school, and effectively going through it while working full time and raising our son, I to spend sometime doing the things I wanted to do (which was a lot less work and school!). Finally, I made it to the Lost Coast, and I've been to half a dozen times since. Sometimes just to camp for a night, and others, like this trip where we drive 300+ miles through the region that I consider my home away from home.
So onto our current adventure! 4 full days of driving and exploring the Lost Coast and Emerald Triangle. A few weeks back I led a group of folks along the 160 mile Lost Coast 4x4 Trail. We'd extend our journey by connecting it with pieces of the Redwood Coast Adventure Trail, which would allow us to explore central Mendocino, including the coastline around Mendocino (township) and Fort Bragg, before shooting northward to the Lost Coast (effectively where the dirt begins). We met up in the old logging town of Willits, and of course it had to be at Lumberjacks restaurant. From Willits we'd head westward toward the coast. Our convoy of vehicles followed the ever meandering pavement of Highway 20 through the redwoods. Hoping to avoid an entire day of nearly pavement, I'd mapped out a short route through the redwood forest of Jackson Demonstration Forest. This was a fantastic warm up for the group, especially for the folks who came from SoCal that aren't quite as used to tall trees and dark forests. My track would lead us to highway 1, and to our first stop fo the day, Big River Beach.
Big River Beach sits just south of the village of Mendocino. It was an exquisite day as the fog had just burned off. And with mild temps in the mid 60s F, it seemed like everyone was down at the beach on this beautiful Wednesday morning. A group was practicing Tai Chi down by the river, and plenty of dogs were running and frollicking in the sand. The Mendocino Coast is hours away from the hustle and bustle of the city and rat race that has consumed the culture of Silicon Valley and the San Francisco Bay Area. The group of strangers was already starting to gel, and everyone seemed to be in a good mood. I proposed we head to Noyo harbor for lunch, with some of the freshest sea food on the coast. Our small convoy hit the road once again, but not before making the small loop around the quaint village of Mendocino. New England style architecture dominates the homes here, and you may wonder why so many of them have water towers. Well, it's because when the town was built, locals had to source their water from the many local creeks (before larger reservoirs like Lake Mendocino were constructed), using these water towers as a form to store their drinking water.
Burning the pavement of highway 1 going north, we reached Fort Bragg, and followed the road down to Noyo Harbor, which continues to be one a working harbor with plenty of boats going in and out. The Harbor also features a small number of restaurants and markets, with the Noyo Fish Company being one of the more popular establishments. So that's where we went, enjoying fish and chips, and shrimp tacos, and a few folks may have treated themself to one of the local ales as well. And really, what better social lubrication is there than some tasty food and a tasty drink?
So far, so good, but we needed to get to our camp for the night. This would entail a 45 minute or so drive up highway 1 up towards Rockport, where Highway 1 veers inland. Except that 45 minute drive was closer to 90 minutes due to the various construction and stoppages we encountered heading north. But finally, we were within a mile of Usal Road, the short, but bumpy 6 mile track that would lead us to our camp for the night, Usal Beach. A large turnout and parking lot proved big enough for our group to pull over and air down. With our tires in full jelly mode, we burned the half mile of pavement to Usal Road and quickly began climbing. We spotted our first glimpses of the Pacific a few short minutes later, but man, were things starting to get bumpy. Coming from a Land Cruiser, sometimes it's hard to tell if the roads are rougher or if its just my truck, a 5 ton hulking beast of steel. But after two years of healthy rainfall, it definitely seemed like Usal Road had seen better times! The final two mile stretch to the beach features some of the best views along this stretch of the Lost Coast. As one descends down the mountain, the dark sand of Usal Beach comes into view. There was perhaps 1 vehicle on the beach, a good sign meaning that not many folks would be out camping that night. A good thing, because Usal Beach, like many places in the West has seen an explosion in use, and not everyone seems to be part of the Leave No Trace / TREAD Lightly crowd. Unfortunately, my favorite creekside camp was occupied. This camp sits just east of the creek on solid ground, with the best legal view of the beach and sunset. I say legal, because driving on the sand/beach is not permitted by CA State Parks, though rarely enforced.
We ended up making camp in the alders adjacent to the creek. While we didn't have an ocean view, a short 30 second walk led to the beach (and the creekside camp I was hoping to get!). The group settled into our rather cozy camp under the trees, which ended up creating a nice shelter for the fog that begin rolling in thick that evening. What's interesting about the Lost Coast is that the marine layer rolls in thick in the evening/night, but by sunrise, it's often already burnt off. Would that be the case for tomorrow? Who knows! But with cooler temps and gloomier weather, we happily settled in around the campfire asking questions, telling stories, and sharing a few laughs.
On day 2 we'll head northward along Usal Road. The big question of the day would be where to camp. In the trees of Tolkan Campground, or would we want to brave the crowds to take advantage of the amenities, and ocean views of Shelter Cove?
Watch the adventure on the YouTubez
Day 1: Willits to Usal Beach


Jackson Demo Forest was a nice softroading warm up!

It was a beautiful day at Big River Beach.

Noyo Fish Company was already packed, and it wasn't even 12pm yet!

Solid shrimp tacos, and reasonably priced given how expensive food is these days. Solid B+

Getting closer to Usal Beach!

The views only get better as you head north!

This is the creekside camp I was hoping we'd snag on a Wednesday, but it was taken.

Usal Beach, free of vehicles like it should be.

Camp under the alders.