Frame design w/ removable hitch.
- Thread starter Sb_Moto
- Start date
Hmmm... I keep reading this and wondering if I'm missing something...
When you talk about using 2 receiver pins, I assume you mean one behind the other? I'm fairly certain that the second pin doesn't do anything.
the pins have to be a little loose in order to go in and out. just grab any truck receiver ball mount and wiggle it. it would be virtually impossible to machine a tube to tolerances that would have both pins in contact with the front of the hole at the exact right point to share the load. It seems like you would be better off to buy a commercial receiver tube for the female half of the tongue and receiver bar for the male half. Drill whatever spacing you think you want for adjustability in the male half, and use the factory punched holes in the tube half... Weld and triangulate that to the frame and you're good to go.
Cheaper, simpler, and less frustrating to build?
When you talk about using 2 receiver pins, I assume you mean one behind the other? I'm fairly certain that the second pin doesn't do anything.
the pins have to be a little loose in order to go in and out. just grab any truck receiver ball mount and wiggle it. it would be virtually impossible to machine a tube to tolerances that would have both pins in contact with the front of the hole at the exact right point to share the load. It seems like you would be better off to buy a commercial receiver tube for the female half of the tongue and receiver bar for the male half. Drill whatever spacing you think you want for adjustability in the male half, and use the factory punched holes in the tube half... Weld and triangulate that to the frame and you're good to go.
Cheaper, simpler, and less frustrating to build?
John E Davies
Adventurer
I joined this thread late, but I just thought I should toss in a few pics.
I use a honking big bolt and self locking nut in the back hole so I can cinch it down hard and eliminate ALL vertical movement. If there were only one pin the bar would move around, a lot. Lots of clunky noises..... This way it does not rust from chafing. Much. The front pin is a lock for security.
The Treg coupler is raised for clearance and the trailer rides level with my lifted 80 in front. The ball coupler is dropped to match a standard 18 inch ball height of lesser vehicles
Each tongue is about 4ft long, the ball version is built with thinner wall than the offroad version. I like to be able to remove the tongue and store it with the unused one in the bed, off season. It gives a couple of extra feet of room in my garage.
Obviously you have to have an extra long cable and secure the excess when the bar is slid in. I have 30 inches of adjustability with both bars, it can be handy for long loads like lumber. I usually keep the Treg all the way in for maneuverability. In the second pic the bar is partly extended so the rear swing door of the RAV4 trucklet will clear the trailer spare tire.
http://www.spokanister.net/vehicles_trailer.htm
Good luck.
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
I use a honking big bolt and self locking nut in the back hole so I can cinch it down hard and eliminate ALL vertical movement. If there were only one pin the bar would move around, a lot. Lots of clunky noises..... This way it does not rust from chafing. Much. The front pin is a lock for security.
The Treg coupler is raised for clearance and the trailer rides level with my lifted 80 in front. The ball coupler is dropped to match a standard 18 inch ball height of lesser vehicles
Each tongue is about 4ft long, the ball version is built with thinner wall than the offroad version. I like to be able to remove the tongue and store it with the unused one in the bed, off season. It gives a couple of extra feet of room in my garage.
Obviously you have to have an extra long cable and secure the excess when the bar is slid in. I have 30 inches of adjustability with both bars, it can be handy for long loads like lumber. I usually keep the Treg all the way in for maneuverability. In the second pic the bar is partly extended so the rear swing door of the RAV4 trucklet will clear the trailer spare tire.
http://www.spokanister.net/vehicles_trailer.htm
Good luck.
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
Last edited:
97kurt
Adventurer
Here is mine, wish I had a better pic handy.
Two pins, mainly as a fail safe but the front pin is locking one. Also (hard to see) I have a 1/2" threaded insert welded to the top of the receiver in between the two pins. I just apply a little tension to the bolt and there is no wobble or play in the receiver.
Two pins, mainly as a fail safe but the front pin is locking one. Also (hard to see) I have a 1/2" threaded insert welded to the top of the receiver in between the two pins. I just apply a little tension to the bolt and there is no wobble or play in the receiver.
There many ways to go .What one person calls off road is someone else tea party .A little slop is not a big deal . As you build this trailer think what you may use it for in ten years . This is pulled out will try to get picture of the boat rack .It uses the 5/8 pin to hold the rack on.
![IMG_0379[1].jpg](https://expeditionportal.com/forum/data/attachments/251/251773-cf2876e35a07a522246ed2aa106405c3.jpg "IMG_0379[1].jpg")
![IMG_0378[1].jpg](https://expeditionportal.com/forum/data/attachments/251/251774-efa310ca770f66072d7428e78493f632.jpg "IMG_0378[1].jpg")
Last edited: