Fridge vs. cooler for basecamp-style travel

[jk6661]

After reading through all the replies to this thread, my dilemma is clearer to me: The 12v cig ports in my vehicle shut off when the vehicle shuts off, which is critical, because it means I need a separate deep-cycle battery to run the fridge -- using the starter battery, which the alternator charges quickly, isn't an option. So I need some way to charge the separate deep-cycle battery. Because I can't use solar due to wooded campsites, I either have to charge it with a 12v cig port and an ArkPak at a snail-like 6 amps/hour while driving (requiring 8-9 hours to charge a half-depleted 100 ah battery), or find a 110v outlet somewhere and charge it faster with a good smart charger. Driving 8-9 hours just to charge the separate battery isn't always practical, because what if it's not that far to the next campsite? So that means every 3-4 days when the battery has dropped to 50 percent I have to find someone willing to let me rent or borrow a 110v outlet, and then I have to sit next to that outlet for a few hours while the battery charges so no one steals anything. All of this sounds like a giant PITA, especially given that the fridge and associated gear will set me back about $1200. Am I missing something here?

 

[snare]

Do you ever basecamp for 4-5 days, only driving up to an hour a day?

yes

 

[Ovrlnd Rd]

After reading through all the replies to this thread, my dilemma is clearer to me: The 12v cig ports in my vehicle shut off when the vehicle shuts off, which is critical, because it means I need a separate deep-cycle battery to run the fridge -- using the starter battery, which the alternator charges quickly, isn't an option. So I need some way to charge the separate deep-cycle battery. Because I can't use solar due to wooded campsites, I either have to charge it with a 12v cig port and an ArkPak at a snail-like 6 amps/hour while driving (requiring 8-9 hours to charge a half-depleted 100 ah battery), or find a 110v outlet somewhere and charge it faster with a good smart charger. Driving 8-9 hours just to charge the separate battery isn't always practical, because what if it's not that far to the next campsite? So that means every 3-4 days when the battery has dropped to 50 percent I have to find someone willing to let me rent or borrow a 110v outlet, and then I have to sit next to that outlet for a few hours while the battery charges so no one steals anything. All of this sounds like a giant PITA, especially given that the fridge and associated gear will set me back about $1200. Am I missing something here?

I haven't gotten a fridge/freezer yet (although I looked at several yesterday at an Overlanding event here in TX) I do have a second battery setup for the back of my Titan. What I'm doing now, since I don't have a dual battery set up yet, is running stuff through a Blue Sea fuse block screwed to a boat battery box. I hook my accessories (some LED lights, phone chargers, etc) through the fuse block that is wired directly to the battery. For charging the battery I have a NOCO Genius 7200 battery charger plugged into the factory inverter in the bed. Like your cigar lighter, the inverter only works while the truck is running but the charger can top off the battery quickly with just a little driving around. The charger has a quick disconnect so I can pull it and lock it in the truck when stopped but still have the battery in the back.

The caveat for my setup is that I don't base camp so that's a little different than your situation but I still think it would work. The fridges I've been looking at are a low enough amp draw that charging the battery every couple of days should be sufficient.

The pics are before I got things completely put together.

 

[e60ral]

After reading through all the replies to this thread, my dilemma is clearer to me: The 12v cig ports in my vehicle shut off when the vehicle shuts off, which is critical, because it means I need a separate deep-cycle battery to run the fridge -- using the starter battery, which the alternator charges quickly, isn't an option. So I need some way to charge the separate deep-cycle battery. Because I can't use solar due to wooded campsites, I either have to charge it with a 12v cig port and an ArkPak at a snail-like 6 amps/hour while driving (requiring 8-9 hours to charge a half-depleted 100 ah battery), or find a 110v outlet somewhere and charge it faster with a good smart charger. Driving 8-9 hours just to charge the separate battery isn't always practical, because what if it's not that far to the next campsite? So that means every 3-4 days when the battery has dropped to 50 percent I have to find someone willing to let me rent or borrow a 110v outlet, and then I have to sit next to that outlet for a few hours while the battery charges so no one steals anything. All of this sounds like a giant PITA, especially given that the fridge and associated gear will set me back about $1200. Am I missing something here?

You can use your starting battery for the fridge, just replace your starting battery with a marine battery. It wouldn't take a lot of engine running time every day or two to keep your battery charged

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[jk6661]

Does anyone know how fast a typical alternator charges the starting battery in amps/hour? Also, I talked to an auto electrician who claimed that a fridge would "fry the alternator." I assume based on everyone's experience here that he doesn't know what he's talking about, right?

 

[e60ral]

Does anyone know how fast a typical alternator charges the starting battery in amps/hour? Also, I talked to an auto electrician who claimed that a fridge would "fry the alternator." I assume based on everyone's experience here that he doesn't know what he's talking about, right?

He doesn't know what he's talking about. The specs for mine list a max of 7A, and it will generally be much lower than that. 1A is a conservative rule of thumb average for most fridges, that includes run and non running time.

I can't find the size of my alternator, but my 20-40 min commute is enough to recharge my battery after it sits for a day. If it sat all weekend the commute to and from work combined is enough to recharge the battery. I am using a voltage booster on my stock charging system so it runs ~14V instead of the stock ~13.5V

 

[kerry]

After reading through all the replies to this thread, my dilemma is clearer to me: The 12v cig ports in my vehicle shut off when the vehicle shuts off, which is critical, because it means I need a separate deep-cycle battery to run the fridge -- using the starter battery, which the alternator charges quickly, isn't an option. So I need some way to charge the separate deep-cycle battery. Because I can't use solar due to wooded campsites, I either have to charge it with a 12v cig port and an ArkPak at a snail-like 6 amps/hour while driving (requiring 8-9 hours to charge a half-depleted 100 ah battery), or find a 110v outlet somewhere and charge it faster with a good smart charger. Driving 8-9 hours just to charge the separate battery isn't always practical, because what if it's not that far to the next campsite? So that means every 3-4 days when the battery has dropped to 50 percent I have to find someone willing to let me rent or borrow a 110v outlet, and then I have to sit next to that outlet for a few hours while the battery charges so no one steals anything. All of this sounds like a giant PITA, especially given that the fridge and associated gear will set me back about $1200. Am I missing something here?

You just need to run a separate circuit direct from the attery with a 12 volt outlet. At its simplest level it means buying something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071X4HF9K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hooked my Unique 60l frig/freezer to a 35amp hour battery and monitored it's consumption over about 45 hours. It average .5 amps per hour in an uninsulated garage at about 90 degrees air temperature.
You would probably get at least 50 amps per hour out of your alternator at idle so an hour of running the engine should easily recharge the battery to counter the frig consumption.

 

[Honu]

both

bought a RTIC recently and the thing is amazing for keeping ice and things cold

when I had the trailer long over week trips the fridge is well ? what you need
we had two one freezer and one for fridge even better


for 4 days or under I am finding I like the RTIC ? but that is me and someone that likes the fridge I can see why also

pros to fridge
super cold all around no warm spots gets cool even after being opened up and continuous use

cons needs second battery to run best which adds more weight expense and a bit more thought to build also can not be left at camp or other as easy expense of unit and 2nd battery and controller etc..

cooler pros
simple nothing to go wrong my RTIC 3 days two gallons frozen water were only about 1/4 thawed out
cheaper overall

cons limited in time say 7 days need to resupply ice also adding warmer food is not something you want to do or burn through your ice quicker


having had multiple fridges and coolers for long term I feel a fridge used as a freezer with arctic ice type blocks to supply a quality cooler woudl be the best so BOTH

 

[cdthiker]

I am always going to vote for the cooler.
leaves more money for steak and beer to put in the cooler and gas to get the cooler cool places...
but thats just me

 

[ducktapeguy]

So you're running it off your starter battery? How big is that?

Stock starter battery. Can't remember the size, but think it's a group 24.

I am always going to vote for the cooler.
leaves more money for steak and beer to put in the cooler and gas to get the cooler cool places...
but thats just me

I thought the same thing at one time, but the price of these 12V fridges have dropped so low that you can pick one up a cheap one for about the same cost as a decent cooler

 

[Ovrlnd Rd]

I am always going to vote for the cooler.
leaves more money for steak and beer to put in the cooler and gas to get the cooler cool places...
but thats just me

cdthiker, I'm planning on doing the ID Back Country Discovery Route next summer if you'd like to jump in for a section. Probably be mid-July so hopefully no fires like this year. My dad lives just outside of Grangeville so will be stopping there for a couple of days before hitting the Magruder Corridor.

 

[67cj5]

My Truck battery was a 9 year old 80/90 Ah so I fitted a 115Amp / 1000cca leisure /Deep Cycle battery but I am going to add 2 more so I can run a 1000watt micro wave and my ARB 50QT fridge/freezer that will give me a total of 345 Amps, I also have 100watt solar panel but I might add 2 more just help on cloudy days,

 

[e60ral]

My Truck battery was a 9 year old 80/90 Ah so I fitted a 115Amp / 1000cca leisure /Deep Cycle battery but I am going to add 2 more so I can run a 1000watt micro wave and my ARB 50QT fridge/freezer that will give me a total of 345 Amps, I also have 100watt solar panel but I might add 2 more just help on cloudy days,

You're double the lifetime on that battery, you should replace it while you're at it

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[67cj5]

You're double the lifetime on that battery, you should replace it while you're at it

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I tend to go OTT with all the gear I buy, whether it be bits for the truck or cold weather gear for me, I had a run in with frostbite once, Never again, I just my alternator is up to it, I think it is about 85/90 amp but if not they will have to go too.

 

[trasko]

@jk6661 Unlike someone's claim on page 1 I've had a fridge (and second battery, dedicated charging circuit, blue sea fuse panel, etc) and I've gone back to a cooler. I'm also the type that's not huge into the whole "expo" life and could probably be fine with a Subaru and a backpack (although I've got a CC 4x4). So take my opinion for what it's worth.

I found the hassle and cost of dealing with all the electrics, the added weight and complexity just wasn't worth it. Also: fridges have fans which click on and off all the time. If you're sleeping near it it makes noise. Like others have said: built-in 12V plugs typically don't have the juice to power the fridges so you need a dedicated line. Also they aren't small. Also depending on how you wire it may end up just staying where it is (in your vehicle). Not on the ground as a seat or near your camp kitchen in your screened in awning or down at the beach, etc.

I think the 12V fridges are great for road-warrior types who are driving or "on the job" all the time. I think they are great for RVs with a solar array. I think it's great as an efficient "garage cooler" you occasionally take on a road trip. For boon-docking without solar it can work if you charge it up. But are you really going into the wilderness away from civilization so you can worry about the voltage level of your f-ing fridge? Not me. I'd sooner eat non-refrigerated food. I'll get a cold beer at a brewery and savor it and not take every single nicety of civilization with me.

So, /shrug. I do coolers now. Both ways are fine.