Frirstone Air Bags + 1000 Pound Camper = Broken Tundra Frame

[beef tits]

Can't speak for a 1st gen but I have run 3 different campers, all 900-1100 lbs of camper not including 20+ gallons of water and other gear in my 2010, no issues to speak of over ~20k miles. Last time I ran across the scales I was about 1600. lbs over GVWR loaded. A lot of that weight is tires, heavy steel skid plates/sliders, bumper, winch, gear in the cab, etc. The Tundra still brakes, accelerates and handles better than my old F250 with no weight in it at all.

I run "ride-rite" bags on Old Man Emu leafs, E-rated tires and do a lot of stupid things off-road, with the camper in it. Camper is on the truck 95% of the time.

 

[sn_85]

@smokeysevin Thanks for the info. I believe at this point I have convinced myself that I do not want to run bags without a spring upgrade in conjunction. At least for the purpose of heavy load hauling.

For the time time being I am installing the Hellwig 990 spring kit. The 1000 pound hard side camper will not be going on the Tundra this winter. Hopefully the custom camper build will kick off sooner and be a better fit for use during Alaskan winter. I will report back on how this setup preforms when it all comes together.

I have an 06 Tundra that's going on the same journey. Doing a camper build and had the same question you had. I'm definitely getting a set of deaver leaf springs to help carry the load and use either sumo springs or air bags in conjunction. Just curious but what camper are you getting for it?

 

[HNewman]

I have an 06 Tundra that's going on the same journey. Doing a camper build and had the same question you had. I'm definitely getting a set of deaver leaf springs to help carry the load and use either sumo springs or air bags in conjunction. Just curious but what camper are you getting for it?

For the time being I ditched the stand up height camper and hope to build something custom on down the road.

Currently I was lucky enough to stumble on an Alaskan built Cache Camper. They come in many different shapes and sizes and mine is one of the classic unique designs you rarely see outside Alaska. They don't have model names and are all unique to my knowledge. I will post some pictures with a before and after the spring install that should help give you a better idea of what I'm currently working with.

 

[devero4]

My 67 year old Mom has Firestone bags in the rear of her 2003 Limited model Tundra. She has a 2012 shell model FWC with homemade shelves and countertop. It is on stock springs. Camper weighs 900 - 1,000Ibs when she takes off on a trip. I have found 30-35 psi gives the best ride, and stays off the bump stops. She has had this setup for roughly 2 yrs/30,000 miles. I service the truck myself regularly, and installed the airbags and camper install kit. If I were to go back and do it all over, I would not change a thing. She can air the bags up with 2 pumps with a bicycle pump, and at times uses the bags to help level the camper when arriving at camp. She gets out more than most. Good luck with your decision!

 

[billiebob]

I'd never spend $1300 on rear leaf springs.

I have Firestone air bags in my TJR and love them to level/lift the rear end when towing. Regardless of where you put the overloads, air bags or add a leaf, if you exceed the truck GVWR you risk damaging something when you miss the washboard or whoop dee doos. Most bent frames are a result of speed and whoop dee doos. ..... and maybe excessive weight or excessive overhang...... altho we drove the same way in the 1970s, 1980s, and never bent a frame unless we went in the ditch and hit an approach at 60mph.

Air bags are a great way to level the load. There is no way to compensate for an overloaded truck.

 

[HNewman]

My 67 year old Mom has Firestone bags in the rear of her 2003 Limited model Tundra. She has a 2012 shell model FWC with homemade shelves and countertop. It is on stock springs. Camper weighs 900 - 1,000Ibs when she takes off on a trip. I have found 30-35 psi gives the best ride, and stays off the bump stops. She has had this setup for roughly 2 yrs/30,000 miles. I service the truck myself regularly, and installed the airbags and camper install kit. If I were to go back and do it all over, I would not change a thing. She can air the bags up with 2 pumps with a bicycle pump, and at times uses the bags to help level the camper when arriving at camp. She gets out more than most. Good luck with your decision!

Thanks its useful to hear someone who is actually speaking on specific real experience. Also that is a great looking rig!!

 

[Regcabguy]

Get a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. Bigger frame and drivetrain. Preferably with full floating rear axles.

 

[beef tits]

Get a 3/4 or 1 ton truck. Bigger frame and drivetrain. Preferably with full floating rear axles.

Why exactly? For a 1,000 lb load? Are you serious?

People think they need a big stupid ¾ ton to go get mulch at home depot once a year. Get real man.

¾ ton trucks are a headache to own, especially diesels. A Tundra will move 1,000 lbs around without issue. The original post is alluding to something that some uninformed told them at an auto repair shop which is absurd to begin with. These are million mile trucks that are underrated for capacity.

 

[billiebob]

The air bags are not the issue, overliading the frame is the issue. Airbags only level the load the frame is engineered licensed to carry. Nothing changes the GVWR. The biggest issue with modern expedition imports is WHERE the load is placed. Too much overhang changes all the parameters the engineers used designing your truck.

All the crazy broken frame pics on the internet are the result of ignoring what the truck was designed for. I tow a trailer behind my TJR. I'll add Firestone airbags this spring but JUST to level, lift the back end when towing my LECAL 1500# teailer with a 200??# tongue weight. Ait bags do not increase the capacity/capability.

Where you put that weight is equally important. Leverage offers fantastic mechanical advantage loosening bolts. It also multiplies the stress on a frame.

 

[rruff]

Am I the only one who thinks $1300 for springs on a 1/2 Ton truck is a bit high? My full size van cost half that upgraded and installed.

I called Boise Spring a few weeks ago. People on WtW seem to like their upgrade kits. 4 springs added on each side and the overload removed, for 1500 lb load at stock height. It was ~$500 shipped for my Tundra. Local places should be able to supply something similar.

 

[IdaSHO]

Ive been in contact with Boise Spring Works about our truck and rear leafs.
So far Ive heard nothing but good about them.

They do communicate well. And by todays standards that's a great start!
I've been chatting with Michelle via email about options.
Ill likely upgrade our rear leafs to a set of their "stage 2" kit for our Superduty.

It would add 1800-2000lbs worth of spring capacity, and run about $650.
Pretty similar to other spring shops, 'cept they are the closest so less on freight/travel to get them in my hands.

 

[rruff]

If you get them, I'd like to hear what you think. Was it the same, 4 leaves added per side with overload removed, or something else?

 

[IdaSHO]

From what I gather, yes.

Remove the large flat bottom overload, and add 4 leafs to the existing master leaf(s).

 

[tacollie]

Ive been in contact with Boise Spring Works about our truck and rear leafs.
So far Ive heard nothing but good about them.

They do communicate well. And by todays standards that's a great start!
I've been chatting with Michelle via email about options.
Ill likely upgrade our rear leafs to a set of their "stage 2" kit for our Superduty.

It would add 1800-2000lbs worth of spring capacity, and run about $650.
Pretty similar to other spring shops, 'cept they are the closest so less on freight/travel to get them in my hands.

That's super tempting! I've been sitting on $1500 for year trying to justify new leaf springs from Alcan here in Colorado. $650 is much easier to swallow.

 

[nickw]

Why exactly? For a 1,000 lb load? Are you serious?

People think they need a big stupid ¾ ton to go get mulch at home depot once a year. Get real man.

¾ ton trucks are a headache to own, especially diesels. A Tundra will move 1,000 lbs around without issue. The original post is alluding to something that some uninformed told them at an auto repair shop which is absurd to begin with. These are million mile trucks that are underrated for capacity.

It will move it - sure, but it's (potentially) outside of it's design intent. A stock Tundra has a payload capacity of ~1600 lbs (give or take), 2 dudes + gear is 500 lbs easy. Add in 100 lbs of offroad goodies, you can see the trucks realistically are rated for ~1000 lbs in the bed....that is Toyota engineer constraints, not the auto shop guy that gave the OP good sound advice, it may not be the frame per-se, but it's certainly a risk.

3/4t's make a bunch of sense for the OP or anybody with a full size camper, especially if they plan on going offroad in challenging terrain.....much stronger running gear and frame than a Tundra and leaves a larger factor of safety, which is a good thing. Loaded down they get sim. MPG. I'd rather have an understressed vehicle than an overstressed one....

Driving to and from Home Depot is not best use case for a 3/4t, but if you have a huge travel trailer at home they need it since a 1/2t won't cut it....many guys are in the camp, but of course many guys don't and would probably be better served with a lighter duty truck like a Tundra or a Camry.

I've kinda come to the realization that full size campers work better on 3/4t+ trucks, less stress, same MPG, better handling & ride when loaded down, within design limits, etc.