From Freightliner ambulance to RV - we hope!
- Thread starter rossvtaylor
- Start date
shortbus4x4
Expedition Leader
On the abs light make sure all the sensors are plugged in, try unplugging them and plugging them back in. I would also check and make sure they are all pushed in the sensor holders at the wheel ends. You might have one that came out slightly.
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
Thanks, I'll try that. I'm guessing that's exactly what happened, based on how the light activation came about. It was clearly shock/vibration related. I would have climbed under there this evening, but we got a hard hail storm this afternoon and it's a mess outside.
shortbus4x4
Expedition Leader
The abs sensors are usually pretty easy to push in, push until they bottom on the tone ring. Sometimes though they get rusty, crusty, and corroded in which case some careful use of penetrating oil and a punch and hammer can get them to move. Be careful with the oil as you have brake linings and drums/rotors you don't want to soak. Be gentle with the hammer and punch or have a spare abs sensor handy.
A laptop with some Cummins, Allison, and ABS software wouldn't be a bad investment either. You can diagnose ABS sensors with a simple DVOM and jack. Ohms test them, if good then jack up each wheel and spin it with your DVOM hooked up to it set on AC voltage. They should generate AC voltage, a graphing device makes it even easier to see any faults.
A laptop with some Cummins, Allison, and ABS software wouldn't be a bad investment either. You can diagnose ABS sensors with a simple DVOM and jack. Ohms test them, if good then jack up each wheel and spin it with your DVOM hooked up to it set on AC voltage. They should generate AC voltage, a graphing device makes it even easier to see any faults.
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
Thanks, Shortbus. I crawled underneath and see that each sensor is connected to the main harness with a connector, about 18 inches up the line. I couldn't actually see the sensor, where it entered the hub, but I gave each one some manipulation love and also squeezed on each of the four connectors. The ABS light is off again, so I'm guessing it's one of those spots that got handled. When the light goes on again, I'll try a more systematic approach and only work one wheel at a time.
The actual sensors are under a pretty good layer of crust, and I didn't have the truck jacked up, so I couldn't see what you're referring to as far as pushing them in. But, I'll do some internet searching for clear photos.
EDIT to add a pic here - I found a photo, online, of what the sensor looks like underneath the dirt and grime.
Your help is appreciated - it sounds like you work on these as more than a hobby. Would the Scangauge Diesel that Ozrockrat has tell me specifically which sensor is bad? Is there another software you recommend? We'll definitely put a laptop in this rig, if just to use that Silverleaf monitor.
Oh, regarding the multimeter testing. That's a good idea. I may be way wrong, but I'm guessing our issue is a disconnected sensor, not a bad one. I'd presume that a bad sensor would show up during driving, when it failed to report data. In my case, the light's coming on immediately when the key is turned on and then it remains on (which I guess means it's lost contact/continuity with one sensor). Does that sound reasonable?
The actual sensors are under a pretty good layer of crust, and I didn't have the truck jacked up, so I couldn't see what you're referring to as far as pushing them in. But, I'll do some internet searching for clear photos.
EDIT to add a pic here - I found a photo, online, of what the sensor looks like underneath the dirt and grime.
Your help is appreciated - it sounds like you work on these as more than a hobby. Would the Scangauge Diesel that Ozrockrat has tell me specifically which sensor is bad? Is there another software you recommend? We'll definitely put a laptop in this rig, if just to use that Silverleaf monitor.
Oh, regarding the multimeter testing. That's a good idea. I may be way wrong, but I'm guessing our issue is a disconnected sensor, not a bad one. I'd presume that a bad sensor would show up during driving, when it failed to report data. In my case, the light's coming on immediately when the key is turned on and then it remains on (which I guess means it's lost contact/continuity with one sensor). Does that sound reasonable?
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rossvtaylor
Adventurer
Okay, after a brief off-topic foray through the land of anti-lock braking systems...
Here's what our rig looked like on the sales site. We traded the two squad bench chairs to GEV, so those are gone now. The steps in the photo were used as foot rests for kids, so their feet didn't just dangle. We'll remove those and use them outside, for rack access. The best news here, for us, is that the squad bench is 7 feet long. Not that either Kara or I are that tall, but it opens up options for bedding.
The worst thing I've encountered is the striping on the outside of the box. GEV warned me that they were having a tough time with it. They took off the parts that identified this as an ambulance, but there is still striping left. The parts they took off look great - not a scratch. But, I tried taking off some of the stripes and it's comprised of 3 layers. A heat gun didn't help at all. I emailed GEV this eve, to find out what method they used. I'm not looking forward to removing those remaining stripes, but they have to come off.
Here's what our rig looked like on the sales site. We traded the two squad bench chairs to GEV, so those are gone now. The steps in the photo were used as foot rests for kids, so their feet didn't just dangle. We'll remove those and use them outside, for rack access. The best news here, for us, is that the squad bench is 7 feet long. Not that either Kara or I are that tall, but it opens up options for bedding.
The worst thing I've encountered is the striping on the outside of the box. GEV warned me that they were having a tough time with it. They took off the parts that identified this as an ambulance, but there is still striping left. The parts they took off look great - not a scratch. But, I tried taking off some of the stripes and it's comprised of 3 layers. A heat gun didn't help at all. I emailed GEV this eve, to find out what method they used. I'm not looking forward to removing those remaining stripes, but they have to come off.
patoz
Expedition Leader
The Panic Button is a signal from the attendant in the rear to the driver that means, 'Pull over and stop now, and get back here because all hell is breaking loose!'
Way back when Firefighters used to ride on the tailboard of the pumpers, we had a switch similar to that. We used a series of codes to convey messages to the driver, such as one buzz = go, two buzzes = stop, three buzzes = back up, non-stop buzzing = stop quick because Carl fell off the tailboard at that last intersection and is rolling in the street!
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
Haha! Thanks. Do all ambulances have this?
Mine sure did, it had a great big red light by the shifter. Like 4" round. Its a wonder the light alone didnt cause an accident.
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
:smiley_drive: Okay, I wondered why it might be in an ambulance primarily for transporting kids... made me think of some old horror movies. Sounds like a universal thing. I think I"ll keep this, for my daughter. It's better than the cow bell I got her.
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
Speaking of which... a walk through was a feature on our check list and we specifically looked for units with that. The one we bought didn't have that, but it had other things that swung our decision. I just assumed that we'd enlarge the pass-through window and put in a door. But, now that we have the unit and see what cabinetry we'd lose in that space, we're leaning heavily towards leaving it as is.
For those who have walk-through passages, how many of you use them and how often? Is it worth the modification?
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
I took off the panel in front of the passenger's seat, where the fuses are located, and here's the data label from that panel. Thanks for pointing this out to us, there's good info here.
Here's my stumper of the day... what the heck is this for? It's located inside the rear door and, hard to see, the word "off" is scratched above the key slot's vertical position.
I pulled off the panel and there's a key-controlled single-pole electrical switch and two momentary NC switches. Based on the hack job inside, it was not factory installed. I don't have a key for it, but one of the wires pulled right off the switch (like I said, not factory) and so I bypassed the switch to see what came on. No joy. Does anyone know what this might have controlled?
And, finally for today, I swung by my favorite local place for all things odd... the Northern Arizona University surplus sales shop. It's open to the public M-F, from Noon to 4pm. You never know what you'll find there. Engine parts, computers, weight equipment, clothing, furniture, ?? There's a cool dental chair (fully functioning electric tilt, by the way) for about $50. And, today's deal are dorm refrigerator/freezers for $35 each. You can plug them in to test them, pick the one you want, and off you go. So, if anyone attending the Expo needs one you can swing by there tomorrow. We're getting one, which may go in KETO 1... or it may become a drink fridge for the shop. By the way, these draw less than 100W (per the labeling). I know the perfect spot in our ambulance for it, if we decide to install one this big. They're about 21-inches wide, about that same deep, and 50 or so inches tall (maybe 52?). I can measure exactly, tomorrow, if anyone needs to know.
Edit - thanks, Patoz, for telling me how to get rid of a bad image upload!
Here's my stumper of the day... what the heck is this for? It's located inside the rear door and, hard to see, the word "off" is scratched above the key slot's vertical position.
I pulled off the panel and there's a key-controlled single-pole electrical switch and two momentary NC switches. Based on the hack job inside, it was not factory installed. I don't have a key for it, but one of the wires pulled right off the switch (like I said, not factory) and so I bypassed the switch to see what came on. No joy. Does anyone know what this might have controlled?
And, finally for today, I swung by my favorite local place for all things odd... the Northern Arizona University surplus sales shop. It's open to the public M-F, from Noon to 4pm. You never know what you'll find there. Engine parts, computers, weight equipment, clothing, furniture, ?? There's a cool dental chair (fully functioning electric tilt, by the way) for about $50. And, today's deal are dorm refrigerator/freezers for $35 each. You can plug them in to test them, pick the one you want, and off you go. So, if anyone attending the Expo needs one you can swing by there tomorrow. We're getting one, which may go in KETO 1... or it may become a drink fridge for the shop. By the way, these draw less than 100W (per the labeling). I know the perfect spot in our ambulance for it, if we decide to install one this big. They're about 21-inches wide, about that same deep, and 50 or so inches tall (maybe 52?). I can measure exactly, tomorrow, if anyone needs to know.
Edit - thanks, Patoz, for telling me how to get rid of a bad image upload!
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patoz
Expedition Leader
I think I can answer both of these questions.
If I'm not mistaken, the three switches on the rear door are to control the rear suspension air dump. That will lower the rear of the ambulance to make it easier to load and unload a stretcher.
Federal Specification for the Star-of-Life Ambulance KKK-A-1822F
July 1, 2007 - GSA Automotive
3.4.11.7 FLOOR HEIGHT.
The finished floor (loading) height shall be a maximum of 34 in. The height of the floor shall be measured with the vehicle loaded per AMD Standard 017
The finished floor (loading) height shall be a maximum of 34 in. The height of the floor shall be measured with the vehicle loaded per AMD Standard 017
Since your's is a Medium Duty Vehicle, it probably sits higher than a standard Type I or III version, making this a necessity for ambulance operation. This system was probably added at a later date to meet the requirements. The key switch turns the power on and off, and the push buttons raise and lower the rear suspension.
To get rid of the 'deleted' picture, you will need to:
1. Open that post and click 'Edit Post'
2. Click on 'Go Advanced' in the lower right corner
3. Scroll down to 'Attachments' and click on 'Manage Attachments'
4. A window will come up, locate the picture you want to get rid of, hover over it and click on the 'X' in the upper right corner
5. Click 'Done' in the lower right corner of the window.
6. Click 'Save Changes'
And there ya go!