From Freightliner ambulance to RV - we hope!

patoz

Expedition Leader
Ross, the postman picked up your package about an hour ago, and it's headed your way!

Something else I noticed about the generators on both of those, is where they're located. They mounted them on the curbside, or in the case of a camper the 'patio' side, of the vehicle. I would not want to be sitting under my awning eating or enjoying a cool drink with my friends, and have that monster dumping all of the noise, hot air, and diesel exhaust fumes in my face.

Even in the case of an ambulance. I would think they would have mounted it on the street side to get it away from the side door and curb, which is usually where the crew, firefighters, police, or family, congregate to pass on information.
 

rossvtaylor

Adventurer
Ross, the postman picked up your package about an hour ago, and it's headed your way!

That is mighty kind of you, sir! Thanks.

And, you're right, the more I think about it the more reasons we don't want that beast. I'd keep it, but we already have a propane back-up generator and a transfer switch installed at home. By the way, to others for whom it might be the perfect gen set, I've got it listed on our local CraigsList but I'll make a very fair deal for any of the like-minded folks here.
 

rlrenz

Explorer
You might think about either an RV generator, or a Honda generator. Used RV generators are out there, and the prices can be very reasonable compared to a Honda.

I have an Onan 4 kW RV generator that I hope to install this summer. Gasoline fueled, so my only challenge is figuring out the fuel tank/venting/etc. Until I figure out something different, I'm going to use a 6 gallon boat fuel tank. Long term, though, will be an permanent fuel tank.

My generator:

DSCN4663.jpg

Here's another installation someone did on a broadcast support truck using a Honda:

Honda Generator.jpg
 

rossvtaylor

Adventurer
Thanks Rlrenz, I did read your thread and the post about that Onan. That was a nice, demo/expo unused unit, right?

As far as our power, and the use we'll be putting this rig to (or, for the grammarians, the use to which we'll be putting this rig...), we may not need a generator. We'll be on main roads about 90% of the time and we'll be planning most of our travel for times when the weather is such that we actually want to be there. So, we may not have shore power when we arrive but we won't normally need the AC. Without the CruisAir AC, we don't need a generator at all. We can run our coffee maker, propane grill or stove, and the occasional microwave re-heat all of the inverters and batteries. For hot water, we're looking at that Eccotemp propane unit - that looks sweet. For a microwave, it's hard to beat this for $60

Screen Shot 2016-05-24 at 6.59.28 PM.jpg

For a shower/toilet, we've seen the pre-molded pans with a toilet support and flange. Those are okay, but in a small space a sit-down toilet just seems wasteful. We're actually considering an Asian squat toilet and a stainless shower pan. I'll add more details as we work it out (or abandon it), but something like this integrated into one side of the pan would be fantastic.

Screen Shot 2016-05-23 at 3.00.16 PM.jpg

As far as being productive, I got the driver's seat back in and Ruby and I tested it for bounce. All better now! Our vinyl is in good shape, but it's still vinyl and a bit sticky in the heat. We may add a cover, if anyone's got any suggestions they like?

Screen Shot 2016-05-24 at 6.59.14 PM.jpg

Finally, here's an ambulance-specific issue. How to remove reflective labels and graphics and stripes? The dealer had warned me it was tough. And a local Flagstaff graphics shop won't even tough them... So, it's up to us. I tried a heat gun and the vinyl sure gets really soft, but you can't peel it off. The dealer's shop crew suggested plastic scrapers, lacquer thinner to remove the adhesive, a heat gun, and a thing called "the Incredible Whizzy Wheel." I got it through Amazon and we'll see how incredible it is. I got two of them, just in case I wear out the first one before getting done.

Screen Shot 2016-05-24 at 6.58.59 PM.jpg
 

rlrenz

Explorer
My Onan 4 kW came from a retired Onan employee who always liked bidding at the periodic employee's auctions. It had been used for a trade show exhibit showing how an underfloor generator could be installed. It had not been run (other than the initial factory quality checks) until I bought it. It runs well, but I installed a new fuel filter, new air cleaner, and new output leads.

The generator will be installed in Cabinet #2 (second cabinet on the driver's side). This cabinet is 42" wide x 44" high, and will easily hold the Onan generator, plus a fuel tank and a separate generator starting battery. I installed a Blue Sea power panel in the old radio cabinet to handle 12 volts, 120 volts, and to select between generator and shore power.

Regarding removing your lettering/stripes: Do Not Use Lacquer Thinner to remove adhesive residue. It may well also remove the paint. Either use VM&P naptha (hardware store), or buy some spray cans of 3M's adhesive remover.

The "Whizzy Wheel" looks a lot like something that 3M has had on the automotive market for a long time. You may have success with warming the stripes with a heat gun (or maybe just parking in the AZ sun?), then using the wheel to peel the stripes. With the 3M product, you wanted to use a light touch, and use it so the rotation would tend to roll the stripe up. It does a good job, with a follow-up wipe with naptha too remove any residue. It should be available in 4" - 8" sizes from any 3M automotive body products dealer.

(This is not a sales pitch - I worked at 3M 15 years ago, and I worked with the wheels back then)

stripe-1.JPG

stripe-2.JPG
 

clarkh

Observer
I had good luck with the AES industries eraser wheels from Amazon. They worked just as well as the the whizz wheel (got one also) and cheaper. I used 4 of them plus the whizz wheel on mine 14ft. box e450 ambo.
 

rossvtaylor

Adventurer
Great suggestions, thanks! If I burn through the two Incredible Whizzy Wheels I just received, I'll definitely look at these options. I sure hope I don't need 4 of any version of them!
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
Ross, the thing about using those wheels is, be careful not to let them get too hot from the friction. The heat will make the glue gum up and much harder to remove.
 

rossvtaylor

Adventurer
So, I'm still learning about this rig. I drove 2400+ miles and didn't know the driver's seat had adjustable lumbar support (one of my favorite things!) until I took the seat out to replace the bottom seat foam. The knob is underneath the right side armrest. Surprise!

Screen Shot 2016-05-25 at 10.17.10 PM.jpg
 

Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
Generator, cruise control and now lumbar support. Not to mention the nice flecks in the laminate so that it doesn't scream correctional facility cupboards. Making me jealous all over again.

After your graphic description of the seat shock problem I was going to wait a while to tell you I never bother with the air ride. I thought it was great until we decided to get the rig airborne in Baja and when it bottoms out its like getting whacked up the ******** with sledge hammer. So for me it's more a method of getting a different leg position to relieve the cramps when driving long distances. Which brings me back to "you got cruise control as well!!!!!"
 

patoz

Expedition Leader
Neonatal Units are often used for long transports to speciality centers, so Cruise Control is a basic and necessary requirement!
 
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Ozrockrat

Expedition Leader
Take your title down to Freightliner and get signed up for DTNAconnect. It will give you access to your parts including the actual diff carrier code. Then you can use this chart to define if you have a limited slip or no spin diff. Basically if you have a "F" for the 9th character it is an open diff. If you have anything else you are lucky. You should also be able to read this straight off you diff tag.

Rockwell Identification.jpg
 
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rossvtaylor

Adventurer
Take your title down to Freightliner and get signed up for DTNAconnect. It will give you access to your parts including the actual diff carrier code. Then you can use this chart to define if you have a limited slip or no spin diff. Basically if you have a "F" for the 9th character it is an open diff. If you have anything else you are lucky. You should also be able to read this straight off you diff tag.

Well... I got an F.

Freightliner was no help in getting that number, today. They were very nice, but the parts and service people didn't know what it meant to get me DTNAconnect access. They went and talked to someone in the back, who said "yes, we can do that when you bring the truck in." So, I went digging under the truck.

First off, there's a plate on top of the differential. It was raised and the location was visible, even under the caked on dirt. It looks promising, but to borrow from the Jedi... this isn't the plate you're looking for.

Screen Shot 2016-05-26 at 5.27.17 PM.jpg

It had numbers on it, and the gear ratio 433, but the sequence didn't match this handy dandy decoder sheet for the rear axle.

Screen Shot 2016-05-26 at 5.22.32 PM.jpg

So, I found this diagram which shows where the plate should be.

Screen Shot 2016-05-26 at 5.20.22 PM.jpg

And, after scraping off the grime, it was indeed there. Without the location hint, I'd have never found it without scraping the entire axle and differential. It's the black rectangle on the left (looking rearward, so the front of the passenger side of the axle).

Screen Shot 2016-05-26 at 5.27.42 PM.jpg

And, with a bit more scraping, I've got my info.

Screen Shot 2016-05-26 at 5.28.04 PM.jpg

Using the handy dandy decoder, it shows me that I've got a 17,000 pound axle with air brakes, made in the USA, and with the standard differential (the F). No Spin or High Traction would have been nice surprises, but I guess we can't have everything. We have lumbar support, after all. :ylsmoke:
 

bobrenz

Observer
Your FL dealer is fishing for some of your money. When I registered mine, I went to the gal who handles the dealership's FL warranty claims. She sent off one e mail, and I was in the system. If your closest FL dealer won't help, try another dealer.

You can also bring your VIN to the parts department - they can pull up all the build info and print it out for you.
 

rossvtaylor

Adventurer
Your FL dealer is fishing for some of your money. When I registered mine, I went to the gal who handles the dealership's FL warranty claims. She sent off one e mail, and I was in the system. If your closest FL dealer won't help, try another dealer.

You can also bring your VIN to the parts department - they can pull up all the build info and print it out for you.

I think that was the angle of the person "in the back" but, the lady who tried to help me seemed really sincere. She was in the service area. The part's guy was useless... he didn't even offer to try, instead suggesting that I go to service. The service lady poked around in her computer for a while and seemed like she was trying to find the numbers. She then walked back to service with me and tried there, in that login. But, no joy. I think the issue there was that they didn't know what the DTNAconnect access was. She said that they had a login, but that it wasn't for customers.

What does the DTNAconnect access give you?
 

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