From Freightliner ambulance to RV - we hope!
- Thread starter rossvtaylor
- Start date
Bikersmurf
Expedition Leader
Slight uphill works as well.
My votes.
Synthetic and crimped
(never solder then crimp but crimp then solder is OK)
I'd argue that slight uphill is better... or leave the ebrake dragging to avoid unwanted coasting. If the cable isn't taught it'll suck into the layers below under heavy load.
zuke
Adventurer
Definitely an uphill, I'm lucky enough to have the perfect driveway for this, a little over 100ft at 7 degrees...
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
So... I bought two replacement lenses for the Whelen rear box lights. The light units (one on each side) are aluminum and have three lights with lenses... one clear, one red (brake and tail) and one amber with a black arrow-shaped border. My amber arrows were cracked. They are Whelen Model 64 Series and I got the NOS replacements from Collins Auto Sales (collinstrucksales.com) in Kentucky.
While I was in the light fixtures, I checked the bulbs for serial numbers so I could get replacements as spares. Bloody Hell... the bulbs are Whelen and the replacement brake/tail bulbs are $29 each! Maybe they're so robust that I'll never need a replacement, but damn...
I did order a few bulb bases for some of the upper strobe light fixtures. I've cut out the original bulb base and will epoxy these in there, so I can use LED bulbs and make them brake lights.
After seeing what the Whelen bulbs cost, I may order more of these bulb bases and convert the lower lights as well. The bases are under $2 each and accept either standard (incandescent) or LED bulbs.
While I was in the light fixtures, I checked the bulbs for serial numbers so I could get replacements as spares. Bloody Hell... the bulbs are Whelen and the replacement brake/tail bulbs are $29 each! Maybe they're so robust that I'll never need a replacement, but damn...
I did order a few bulb bases for some of the upper strobe light fixtures. I've cut out the original bulb base and will epoxy these in there, so I can use LED bulbs and make them brake lights.
After seeing what the Whelen bulbs cost, I may order more of these bulb bases and convert the lower lights as well. The bases are under $2 each and accept either standard (incandescent) or LED bulbs.
scooter421
Adventurer
Hi guys, I don't want to hijack the post here but you mentioned axles? I am working with Fabco now on a front steer axle and a transfer case. Ross, what are you going for?
Scooter...
Scooter...
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
That's all that crazy Australian guy! We're staying 2-wheel drive.... 😜
scooter421
Adventurer
Ozrockrat
Expedition Leader
They are probably the power supply fuses for the engine and transmission. It is a good idea to make sure you know the fuse rating and have spares because if one of those blows you go no where.
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
Holy smokes! I had no idea it's been so long since I posted anything in this thread, although I've tried to interact in a few others. We've had a crazy (good) time with the business and we've been able to take KETO1 on several road trips since the last posts. We've taken it to Texas, twice, several closer camping treks, and we just got back from SoCal where we had the rig at the Ragnar relay there. It's running well and has proven to be a good highway traveler, with the flexibility to get off on any of the dirt roads we've wanted to explore so far. But, the interior isn't yet fully set up and I haven't had time to do much there. Finally, we're going to attack that now.
I just ordered a Webasto Airtop 2000ST diesel air heater, an Eccotemp L7 water heater, and a Seaflo 2.8 gpm pump. I looked at the AquaHot (dual, water and space heater) like Oz got, but wow... big bucks. So, I turned back to our original plan to use diesel for space heating and propane for water.
In reading about the Webasto and Espar heaters, they seem to be very similar and equally loved. We leaned towards the Webasto, though, because it can be adjusted for different fuel/air mixtures by grounding a rheostat wire and a pretty simple process (at least according to what we've read). Since we're at 7000' now, and camp higher, that may be necessary... we'll see.
Added to the new work, I've now got the task of fixing the cab AC. When we hit the road for Orange County last week, and turned on the AC, it was immediately clear that there's an AC hose inside the dash that's ruptured. When we'd last used the AC, it worked just fine... so, this is a new issue. Fortunately, it wasn't mid-summer and our drive was fine with the windows down. Since Kara brushed a few mouse turds out of the cab, I'm a bit suspicious of chewing activity in there. Fingers crossed!
It feels good to heading forward again.
I just ordered a Webasto Airtop 2000ST diesel air heater, an Eccotemp L7 water heater, and a Seaflo 2.8 gpm pump. I looked at the AquaHot (dual, water and space heater) like Oz got, but wow... big bucks. So, I turned back to our original plan to use diesel for space heating and propane for water.
In reading about the Webasto and Espar heaters, they seem to be very similar and equally loved. We leaned towards the Webasto, though, because it can be adjusted for different fuel/air mixtures by grounding a rheostat wire and a pretty simple process (at least according to what we've read). Since we're at 7000' now, and camp higher, that may be necessary... we'll see.
Added to the new work, I've now got the task of fixing the cab AC. When we hit the road for Orange County last week, and turned on the AC, it was immediately clear that there's an AC hose inside the dash that's ruptured. When we'd last used the AC, it worked just fine... so, this is a new issue. Fortunately, it wasn't mid-summer and our drive was fine with the windows down. Since Kara brushed a few mouse turds out of the cab, I'm a bit suspicious of chewing activity in there. Fingers crossed!
It feels good to heading forward again.
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
Mattersnots
Adventurer
I'm sure you are aware that you can get a high altitude kit for the espar heater. I'm currently shopping for an air heater as well so was excited about your attachment. Although after reading it I don't think I'd be willing to go through that procedure every time I changed altitude.
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
Thanks and yes, I knew about the Espar kit - I guess I should have written that we went with the Webasto because I didn't have to buy a kit, too. I plan to adjust for the higher altitude and leave it. Apparently, that's just fine and only results in a bit lower output at lower elevations. I'll certainly report my experience, after we've had it for a while, but it sounds like it can be adjusted once for high altitude and just left that way.
Mattersnots
Adventurer
Oh, that's a different story. It's back on the list now. I will have to take a closer look at them. Where did you purchase it?
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
On the Bay, from walleye1000 for $899.99, shipped.
rossvtaylor
Adventurer
Stuff is arriving, so we can make some more progress in the next few pre-summer weeks.
Yesterday, we got the exterior LED flood lights and trim rings to angle the lights downward. These will go in those small baking pans we installed in the former ambo light openings. 4 on each side, and two in the rear. The trim rings are Rigid brand and the lights are a more-affordable ($19/pair) Nilight 18W flood. The angled trim rings cost $33.52 a pair!
Yesterday, we got the exterior LED flood lights and trim rings to angle the lights downward. These will go in those small baking pans we installed in the former ambo light openings. 4 on each side, and two in the rear. The trim rings are Rigid brand and the lights are a more-affordable ($19/pair) Nilight 18W flood. The angled trim rings cost $33.52 a pair!