Full Size Regular Cab Trucks with a Pass-Through Boot Thread - Show/Talk About Yours!

alaska

Observer
I think you're gonna find that outside of the camper vehicle builds, most people that need pass-through type access will opt for an SUV, as evidenced by the SUV vs Truck thread. As the guy above mentioned, I think heating/cooling will be the biggest problem, unless you make some type of plug/stopper/door that closes up the hole when necessary.

Not familiar with the thread you mentioned, but I think that the idea of a RC truck with a camper shell in the bed and a pass-through between cab and cap is a valid one. For one thing, when I take into account the weight of the sleeping platform/storage trunk/cabinets I have in mind plus my equipment and supplies, I'm looking at about 2,500 lbs. or so. Such a truck would have a payload of about 3,000-4,000 lbs, and the same type of capacity is certainly not available in a SUV. Heating/cooling is not that big of a problem here in California.

To give an idea of what I have in mind, I plan to build something like this, using an A.R.E. DCU:

driverinterior.jpg truck5.jpg
Additional pictures here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...Truck-Expedition-Truck-Concept-Vehicle/page10

Making it sturdy, solid like this:

1pz94x.jpg
Additional pictures: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/57673-1971-F-250-4X4-is-Back-Home/page7

Perhaps, even adding some ceiling/upper cabinets like this:

IMG_2745.JPG
Additional pics here: http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...-camper-top-for-sale-(fits-Ram-1500-quad-cab)
This guy did an exquisite job building the upper part of his A.R.E DCU which, by the way, is for sale right now in Kentucky.
 

alaska

Observer
I have the accordion boot on my sleeper and had it previously on a camper shell. they work great. better than the type that relies on pressure on your cab to seal. the accordion boot doesn't leak. if you flex a lot it might pop off on a corner, if it does use some 3m black weather strip adhesive. won't pop off after that. you can make a pad that goes around for added insulation and to protect the boot when you climb through. right now I only have it on the bottom of mine. I will take some pics tomorrow. like someone else pointed out you must match the opening on the shell to the opening of the back window. highdesertranger

Thank you so very much for your feedback. I'm looking forward to your pictures!
 

highdesertranger

Adventurer
well today wasn't the best day for pictures. the sun was to brite, so the pics I took of the outside didn't turn out well. but here's some.
axle3 013.JPGaxle3 031.JPG
first 2 are the sleeper.
axle3 004.JPG
looking back into the sleeper from the inside.
axle3 016.JPG
top of boot.
axle3 002.JPG
bottom of boot this shows the pad I put in to protect the boot. it's made out of cordura with foam on the inside. if I wanted to add insulation I would run this all the way around.
you might notice that the boot looks ripped. that is because it is. I needed to do some work between the bed and the frame so I unbolted the bed and lifted it one side at a time to gain access. well the boot ripped. I figure it was due seeing it's 12 years old. so I will install a new boot. highdesertranger
 

redthies

Renaissance Redneck
We used the inflatable style between truck and camper when I was a kid. It did rub on the paint a bit and I'm not sure how weather proof it would be without the cabover part of the camper above it.

The accordian style we have in a snow cat between the drivers cab and a passenger cabin. It's a pain in the butt and leaks all the time. That is probably (but not 100% for sure) caused by snow build up between the two. If you live in San Diego or L.A. that's not much of an issue. If you live in Truckee or Big Bear, it might.
 
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highdesertranger

Adventurer
my first try was with the inflatable. but as you change elevation, it either blows up(gaining elevation) or deflates(losing elevation). when it deflates it just falls out. if your accordion boot is leaking just seal it with 3m weather strip adhesive. highdesertranger
 

alaska

Observer
well today wasn't the best day for pictures. the sun was to brite, so the pics I took of the outside didn't turn out well. but here's some.
View attachment 282247View attachment 282249
first 2 are the sleeper.
View attachment 282252
looking back into the sleeper from the inside.
View attachment 282250
top of boot.
View attachment 282248
bottom of boot this shows the pad I put in to protect the boot. it's made out of cordura with foam on the inside. if I wanted to add insulation I would run this all the way around.
you might notice that the boot looks ripped. that is because it is. I needed to do some work between the bed and the frame so I unbolted the bed and lifted it one side at a time to gain access. well the boot ripped. I figure it was due seeing it's 12 years old. so I will install a new boot. highdesertranger

Thanks for sharing!!
 

alaska

Observer
We used the inflatable style between truck and camper when I was a kid. It did rub on the paint a bit and I'm not sure how weather proof it would be without the cabover part of the camper above it.

The accordian style we have in a snow cat between the drivers cab and a passenger cabin. It's a pain in the butt and leaks all the time. That is probably (but not 100% for sure) caused by snow build up between the two. If you live in San Diego or L.A. that's not much of an issue. If you live in Truckee or Big Bear, it might.

In your snow cat application, I'm wondering whether your cab's opening matches the cabin's in size. That's one of the basic requirements for making successful applications of the accordion style boot.
 

highdesertranger

Adventurer
yes this is very important they must match. if they don't glass in the shell until they you have enough material so you can trim it to match. if you notice mine is on a service body. I picked my sleeper up for free then I cut it in half and added 15 inches to the center. I used plywood for the floor and fiberglassed all the plywood. the I took flat fiberglass sheets from another shell and cut it to fit in the 15" gap. then glassed them in. I also did this to eliminate the side windows. also to add to the sleeper cut out. I then trimmed it to size. using the flat fiberglass made it easy. highdesertranger
 

alaska

Observer
yes this is very important they must match. if they don't glass in the shell until they you have enough material so you can trim it to match. if you notice mine is on a service body. I picked my sleeper up for free then I cut it in half and added 15 inches to the center. I used plywood for the floor and fiberglassed all the plywood. the I took flat fiberglass sheets from another shell and cut it to fit in the 15" gap. then glassed them in. I also did this to eliminate the side windows. also to add to the sleeper cut out. I then trimmed it to size. using the flat fiberglass made it easy. highdesertranger

Thanks!!

Do you happen to have pictures illustrating what you just described, or perhaps a build thread? I think it would be very useful to many trying to do the same thing.
 

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