Fused Distribution blocks...comparing fuse types.

[+ d]

I was at the local sailboat supply shop last night looking at fused distribution blocks. They had two different models, both from Bluesea, one used the blade style fuses (model 5025) and the other (model 5015) uses the glass style…being more familiar with the ATO style fuses my first instinct was to get the 5025, however the 5015 offers a far superior layout that will simplify wiring significantly, save space, and its $5 cheaper.

Are there any advantages or disadvantages in using either fuse type that would sway me away from the 5015?


the contenders...

5025:

https://ais.eporia.com/AIS/company_57/53705.jpg?qlt=80&cell=500,500&cvt=jpeg

5015:

https://ais.eporia.com/AIS/company_57/22287.jpg?qlt=80&cell=500,500&cvt=jpeg

 

[Brian McVickers]

Two thoughts for your two cents!

1- all the other fuses on your vehicle are most likely blade style. This will allow you to only need to carry one style of spare fuse and it also allows the fuses to be interchangeable if you run out of spares. Blade fuses are very durable and may withstand more vibration.

2- the glass tube fuses may be more fragile, and the tiny numbers pressed into the end caps are always a pain to read!

 

[Jonathan Hanson]

I'm with Brian on this. The blade-style fuses are much easier to deal with. I think the extra setup complexity would be worth it.

 

[BajaTaco]

You will also likely be able to share fuses with other contemporary vehicles if you go with the blade type. But if you plan on an expedition in Cuba, you may want to go with the glass...

 

[+ d]

really!?

man, this is a tough one for me to swallow!...i bought both of them just so i could mull it over some more but i am surprised at the response...the blade style block is going to have heavy gauge wire sticking our all four sides and crossing over each other...if its just a matter of fuse availability i don't mind keeping a fist full of spares...

but it's hard to argue with the landslide agreement!

 

[Brian McVickers]

For whatever reason the glass fuses are more popular for marine applications and the blade fuses for automotive. Just about all of the fuses on my boat were glass, and they were a pain!

They are difficult to read, difficult to organize, easy to mix up, the glass breaks and the low amp filaments seem to detach easily.

For marine applications you just have to deal since they are the standard. Every piece of marine electronics comes with them. I'm thinking this may be due to the corrosion resistant sealed glass chamber but I don't know...

I would double check on the wiring required for the blade fuse unit and go ahead with the blade fuses either way.
Besides the blade fuses are organized by color, I like pretty colors!

 

[+ d]

...They are difficult to read, difficult to organize, easy to mix up, the glass breaks and the low amp filaments seem to detach easily...

Yeah i can't argue with that, my logical side is telling me not to mess with them. my artistic side is telling me that the wiring will be prettier!

here's a quick diagram i did to show my hang ups!...

the blade type 5025 is on top, glass type 5015 is on the bottom...

oh, and those boxes are supposed to be relays on the right

 

[+ d]

...But if you plan on an expedition in Cuba...

ayyy mang! how di' you know cuba is on ma list a places to check ou'!?

 

[david despain]

http://store.summitracing.com/defau...rch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp&x=45&y=0



i dont know if this is an option but the wiring would be pretty clean if that is a real big deal to you. it is to me. i know you already have those others in hand and i have no idea what u paid for them but here is a link to a painless fuse block that i think i will go with when i build my aux pwr buss. i also may use this http://store.summitracing.com/defau...rch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp&x=45&y=0 and put a coule in to protect various things, but then you have to come up with your own main breaker, relay etc. that the first kit already provides. just an idea

 

[doublej]

Yeah i can't argue with that, my logical side is telling me not to mess with them. my artistic side is telling me that the wiring will be prettier!

here's a quick diagram i did to show my hang ups!...

the blade type 5025 is on top, glass type 5015 is on the bottom...

oh, and those boxes are supposed to be relays on the right

im the same way with wiring...but i also agree that the glass fuses are alittle old fashion i guess. have you thaught about running the wires on the left of the fuse panel under the panel. use some thicker washers to raise it off the mounting surface alittle and your set.

 

[BajaTaco]

If you go with blades, you can also use Smart Fuses, which are pretty cool. However, I really don't think it's that big of a deal if you use the glass fuses. Just pick the one you like best and go for it.

 

[91xlt]

i have a unit similar to the one shown in your diagram, i went with the blade type uses the same as the truck added a second from Painless under the hood and the unit shown here is mounted in the trailer, bought it from a boat supply store.

 

[+ d]

whilst sitting in a vegetative state staring blankly at the pastries on the table during my office's monday morning meeting i had a minor epiphany...i can use the 12 circuit blade style fuse block from Blue Sea!

I can just use the wiring from one side of the block, netting me the 6 needed circuits...this will keep my wiring pretty and allow me to use blade style fuses. i can have my cake and eat it too..

 

[david despain]

maybe im just a complete moron but what is with the negitive buss? why would you need the power to come back to the fuse block after it "exits" the device it has powered? why not just go to ground at the device? please dont :ar15: me for this ?


although maybe i answered my own question.... since this is a marine product and lots of marine stuff is fiberglass maybe u would have to come back to a common place to get a gnd and this is as good of a common place as any.

 

[+ d]

i think that's probably a good hypothesis as to why the negative bus is there.

i personally loathe having to always find a ground...although in theory the truck is just one big negative bus right!? but i hate looking for some convenient existing screw or having to drill new holes and with all the plastics sometimes it ain't easy to find a bare piece of metal. i am setting up to run paired/multi-paired wires so the ground will just always happen at the fuse block...