FWC style flatbed build

Bentley88

New member
I've spent hours reading and looking at pictures here and Wander the West so I figured I'd post what I've been working on. Maybe it will give others ideas like the site has for me or an opportunity for you to share advice with me.

I started with what I think was a mid 80's FWC Grandby. My general plan was to remove the floor pack and build a bottom frame to convert it into a flatbed. Once I stripped the inside and siding, I realized the existing frame was not nearly as stout as I thought it would be. The original joints were only welded on one of four sides. The welds were good but many of them had cracked over the years. When I bought the camper, the frame had two aluminum "runners" down the length of the roof. When I took them off, I realized why they were there. Not sure if someone tried to open the roof while still latched or it had to much snow load at some point but the roof was curved downward in the middle.

Part of this project for me was learning to tig weld aluminum. That said, I basically started from scratch only keeping the original top "U" shaped extrusion from the original camper. Since I was building a whole new frame, I changed the dimensions. I didn't do much as far as drawings or plans.

The new frame is made from 1x1 and 1x2 .050" wall aluminum tubing.

List of main parts that will be used:
-Victron multiplus inverter, solar charge controller, DC-DC charger, lynx distributor, smart shunt
-300 ah of lithium batteries
-2x 200 watt Rich solar panels
-various other electrical components from blue sea
-Engle SB70 refrigerator
-Propex heater
-Thetford curve toilet
-Bullfinch outdoor shower
-6 gallon hot water heater
-30 gallon fresh water tank
-11 gallon grey water tank
-2 maxxair roof fans
-Custom entry door from Challenger
-Lippert second hand windows

The original roof frame isn't worth trying to save so I'll be building a new one from 1x2 tubing. It will be 2" thick, flat and much stronger than the original.

Interior walls will be 1/2" birch plywood and well as all cabinetry.

Outside skin will be one piece aluminum in the .030" to .040" range depending on what I can buy.

Not sure about the canvas yet. I could probably salvage the original (I think it was replaced at some point before) but going to look at options to use new. Might take a leap and learn to sew my own.

One of the biggest puzzles I haven't tackled yet is a roof lifting means. I want it to be simple so no actuators but I don't really like the design of the fwc lift panels for multiple reasons. Possibly going to design my own style.

I've been keeping track of the weight and thinking the whole thing will be in the 1400 to 1500lbs range not counting water.

As for the truck, it is a 2012 Ram 2500 diesel with full Carli suspension and their long travel airbags.

I've looked at a lot of different aluminum flatbeds. There are some very nice ones out there but I can't afford them so I'm going to build my own. After lots of searching, I was able to find and order aluminum extrusion decking from Aluma trailers via one of there dealers in Denver. The rest of it will be aluminum tubing.

This project isn't a rush for me as I have limited time to work on it. The ultimate goal is to take trips with my two young children around the Rocky Mountains and western US.

As I get more done I'll update here and add more pictures.
 

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Bentley88

New member
More pictures
 

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Bentley88

New member
Had some time this weekend to work on the camper. I'm putting together the interior to make sure everything works together. The cabinets were all built outside the camper. The dinette I'm building to fit. The frame isn't perfectly square and all the angles make it easier to in place.

Once I'm happy with how everything fits, it will get taken back down to a bare aluminum frame. There is still some welding to do and a few peices to add.

The electrical system is a tight fit. The three shelves will hold three 100ah batteries.

The toilet will be on drawer slides. It will slide out through a door in the dinette wall.

The under bed storage is proving to be a challenge. I want to have a slide out bed extension but not sure how to clear the piano hinge yet. If someone has a picture and could post of a camper with slide out bed extension where the wood surface/hinge is visible, I'd appreciate seeing it. I have a few ideas but I'm sure others have figured out what works already.
 

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Bentley88

New member
I haven't had much time over the summer to work on this but have made some progress.

The roof frame is built. It took longer than I thought it would. It's time consuming to cut, fit, clean and weld so many peices while keeping everything flat and square on a section so big. It ended up about 1/8" out of square and within a 1/16" of flat.

All of the wood has been taken out of the frame to add additional braces and supports to the frame. The added peices are tacked in place, need to be fully welded still.

My plan is to finish the frame up then skin it. Probably going to use sikaflex to attach the skin. The interior walls and cabinets will be finished outside the camper before reinstalling them for the final time.

Still working out how I want to build the roof lift mechanisms. Was able to find some high quality aluminum piano hinges for the lifts. The mechanisms will be all aluminum so I don't have to deal with rot or weakness of thin plywood.

After looking for several months, I was able to find aluminum trailer decking extrusions that will be used to build the truck flatbed. Also rectangle tubing for the flatbed frame.
 

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Bentley88

New member
Cold and snow here so I started working on cabinets again. This cabinet is the biggest one in the camper. I debated about building it like a normal cabinet with a face frame or all plywood. Decided to do plywood for weight and complexity.

In this cabinet will be sink, majority of plumbing (sink, indoor shower, outdoor shower,) 11 gallon grey water tank, water heater, propex heater with intake and exhaust ports, refrigerator, shore power inlet and breaker, tank drains, water fill, silverware/junk drawer, storage areas and access doors for maintenance.

I'm using 1/2" birch plywood. Disappointing how poor the quality of the veneer is for how much it cost. It tears and peels worse than any I have dealt with. The cabinets will be painted so I'll hopefully be able to fix the bad spots before painting.
 

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