FWC Victron DC/DC charger update help - 2017 Hawk

[how2mtngoat]

Hi everyone

I have a new-to-me Hawk that I am adding 150ah of Lithiums to. It has the standard Bluesea Charging relay and Iota Converter. My first change will be adding a Victron 30amp dc to dc charger. I do not have any wiring in my truck because I bought it new, but I plan to use some 2awg wiring (excessive I know), an anderson power pole connector, 1/2 inch plastic tubing, zip ties, and black silicon to seal the wiring exit. I've run into some questions that I have not seen covered on forum explicitly. Also, yes I have the KP Lithium Manifesto, yes I have seen AM Solars diagrams, and yes I have poured through FWCs posted information, and even called them (they couldn't of been less excited to help...).

1. What do y'all do with the green running lights wire, the anderson power pole connector that seems to be what other upfitters use only has two pins for the thicker positive and ground wires? I'd like to retain the running light function if possible.
2. I would like to retain the ability to use the Iota shorepower converter. I traced the white wire that exits the Iota to the Fuse box and then to the Blue Sea charging relay where it shares the same post as the wire that then goes to the stock AGM batteries.

Thanks all

 

[No Ma]

Here's a picture of the power connection on our 2022 FWC Hawk. We have 6awg wiring from the truck battery to an Anderson SB50 (50 amp max) mounted to the side of the truck bed. The camper has the other side of the SB50 connector. The SB50 connectors are in Anderson environmental boots. The boots help with keeping out dirt and water especially when the camper is off the truck as it is now.

The green running lights wire is just run with the power leads in the same wire loom. On the truck side, the green wire needs to connect to a switched power source that is controlled by the headlights/running lights.

With the 6awg wiring on our rig, I see 31+ amp charging rates when the truck is running.

SB50s max out at 6awg. There is a bigger SB120 that will work with 2awg conductors. They look just like the 50s only bigger.

 

[No Ma]

2. I would like to retain the ability to use the Iota shorepower converter. I traced the white wire that exits the Iota to the Fuse box and then to the Blue Sea charging relay where it shares the same post as the wire that then goes to the stock AGM batteries.

Thanks all

You might be okay keeping the Iota for 120VAC to 12VDC charging if it has the IQ4 module. The IQ4 was marketed as a charge controller for lead acid batteries, so charge profile voltages may not be ideal for your lithium batteries. If you plan on using AC as your primary charging source, the Iota becomes less desirable. We installed a Redarc Manager 30 in our Hawk to handle solar/AC/DC charging and removed the factory installed Iota DLS45-IQ4 and the Blue Sea battery isolator. We didn't order solar from FWC, so it's nice to have solar as an option with the Manager 30.

 

[how2mtngoat]

You might be okay keeping the Iota for 120VAC to 12VDC charging if it has the IQ4 module. The IQ4 was marketed as a charge controller for lead acid batteries, so charge profile voltages may not be ideal for your lithium batteries. If you plan on using AC as your primary charging source, the Iota becomes less desirable. We installed a Redarc Manager 30 in our Hawk to handle solar/AC/DC charging and removed the factory installed Iota DLS45-IQ4 and the Blue Sea battery isolator. We didn't order solar from FWC, so it's nice to have solar as an option with the Manager 30.

I have the DLS-30IQ4. Both seem to have a max output of 13.4V. So not sure they will ever top off my lithiums, but the higher the SOC the better, right? Mostly just trying to have the option of charging at home between trips with the IOTA. Will never use shorepower while away from the house.

 

[No Ma]

I have the DLS-30IQ4. Both seem to have a max output of 13.4V. So not sure they will ever top off my lithiums, but the higher the SOC the better, right? Mostly just trying to have the option of charging at home between trips with the IOTA. Will never use shorepower while away from the house.

Iota doesn't publish any specs on the DLS-nnIQ4 chargers that I could find, but posts from others who have called Iota list charge profiles that match the numbers I found for the older, separate IQ4 module ( I bought one of those years back with an Iota DLS 30 to charge a Lifeline AGM battery ). The profile is:
bulk: 14.796
absorb: 14.196 ( limited to 4 hours before going into float )
float: 13.596

If that's what the DLS 30-IQ4 does, then bulk/absorb voltages are probably a lot closer to what you need, if not a bit on the high side.

 

[how2mtngoat]

Thanks. I am all kitted out with 4awg wire, 175amp anderson plugs, two 50amp blue sea breakers, and two 150ah batteries for 300ah LiFePO4 storage total. I also added a 1000watt inverter with a 150amp blue sea breaker. I am planning on adding a vent similar to the vent that covers the IOTA to the interior battery box wall the give even more ventilation (it has small circular vents to the tiedown area, but id like the interior wall to also have venitalation). I've also installed a temperature monitor so I can monitor battery box temp from the truck drivers seat for longer drives where the Victron may get hot. If temperature is a constant issue I will add a barrel latch to keep the battery box hatch open during drives.


So far, so good. The existing Zamp PWM controller + 160 watt panel tops off the batteries to around 96-98%. The Victron 30amp DCtoDC charges the batteries FAST. Both batteries were at 80% and after a run to the grocery store both batteries were topped off. Inverter charges phone, laptop, and runs Starlink router without kicking the internal fan on.


Thanks again.