GAP Diagnostic Tools: Questions and Dream Requests!

[gatorgrizz27]

Would it be possible to reduce the high speed lowering (factory 100 mph) down to 70? Being that a lot of guys use the IID for a mild 1-2” full time lift and most don’t exceed 100 mph, it would be nice to automatically drop it down a bit when on the highway.

I know that different lift profiles can be created and the LLAMS can do it, but I’d prefer to just have the IID tool lower automatically.

 

[Brav]

In 2010 RR, I would love to actually be able to make use of the TFT cluster, and display actual coolant temp, trans temp, etc instead of nothing, or the **************** normalized coolant temp. I can be towing up a hill and temps will rise 35-40F and gauge needle won’t move.

Also, a button to enable tow mode would be great. Not all trailers ( with LEDs) are recognized

 

[WilliTom]

Hello everyone and thank you for the awesome topic.

If there is anyone from GAP Diagnostics reading this, I got a question:

Brazil never got any LR4 with the HD package, but we got plenty of Range Rover Sport V8's and diesels and LR3's with locking rear diffs.

sourcing a LR4 rear diff ECU here is impossible, so it would either have to be imported (incredibly expensive) or from a LR3/RRS. Will the ECU from the RRS, code Nnw508400 / 1137330008 do the job? The gear ratio from the LR4 can easily be transfered into a locking RRS or LR3 diff (innards are almost the same, it's a matter of disassembly and reassembly of the entire diff, and since I'll buy one used, it will be rebuilt regardless). So the only trouble is which ECU to use.

Thanks in advance

 

[TexasTJ]

Hello everyone and thank you for the awesome topic.

If there is anyone from GAP Diagnostics reading this, I got a question:

Brazil never got any LR4 with the HD package, but we got plenty of Range Rover Sport V8's and diesels and LR3's with locking rear diffs.

sourcing a LR4 rear diff ECU here is impossible, so it would either have to be imported (incredibly expensive) or from a LR3/RRS. Will the ECU from the RRS, code Nnw508400 / 1137330008 do the job? The gear ratio from the LR4 can easily be transfered into a locking RRS or LR3 diff (innards are almost the same, it's a matter of disassembly and reassembly of the entire diff, and since I'll buy one used, it will be rebuilt regardless). So the only trouble is which ECU to use.

Thanks in advance

Might be more cost effective and stronger long term to get a rear Locker from ARB.

 

[Victory_Overland]

x2 on the ARB Locker

 

[WilliTom]

yeah, I considered the ARB locker, but they are prohibitive to import to Brazil:

Original cost fluctuates around 1000USD for the locker + 300ish for the compressor + shipping costs.
That will lead to a final cost of around 1600USD before taxes. Then there is the 60% import taxes + 20% on the total of that for other fees to liberate the item with customs, which means a grand total of 3000USD for the locker. And that's a SINGLE kit. Then you multiply it by 4.2, which is the conversion to Brazillian Reais and that's about 13000BRL for a single locker.

I can get an ECU + Rear diff installed for 4000BRL (used, granted, but refurb, new seals and all that). I already have an IIDTool, which would make enabling the rear diff on the terrain response trivial, thus the question about the ECU.

I would absolutely prefer a ARB in front and back, but it seems like there is no ARB rear locker for the LR4 (not that I could find for sale) and the front locker is so prohibitive that it's cheaper to buy a junked LR3 and get the diff off of it.

 

[WilliTom]

Did some sourcing and researching and it seems like all diffs from D3, D4 and RRS diesel automatic are 3.54 ratios, both locking or open, so my main worry is ECU compatibility which seems a bit harder to set in stone.

I got a 2011 D4 with the 6-gear ZF case with the paddle-shifter mod. I wish there was a parts code table listing which parts are the same for both LR4 and RRS, would make life so much easier.

 

[howirolla]

So forgive me if this has been covered somewhere before, but am I missing something or does the L322 not have a tire size option?

 

[gatorgrizz27]

I had a thought today, I have read that it’s not recommended to leave the IID tool connected while driving for extended periods of time, but it is really handy to be able to read coolant and transmission temps, etc. I assume the reasoning for not leaving it plugged is the potential of some type of glitch or crash bricking the ECU?

I’m also figuring the majority of the price is for R&D costs and the software, not the actual device/Bluetooth connection.

I would be willing to purchase a $100 Bluetooth module that would strictly display various temps or other useful info through the app, but could be left plugged in all the time, like a scan gauge. I’d even be fine if you plugged it into a computer and selected the parameters you wanted it to display, rather than being able to change them on the fly through the app. GAP could also choose to limit sales of these to IID owners if they wanted to.

Is there a particular reason this wouldn’t be possible? It seems the software development would be almost nothing, and might be a popular option.

 

[krick3tt]

install a gage for temps

 

[TexasTJ]

I have a Scangauge that I keep plunged in all the time that gives Live Water Temps, Air at Intake temp, Battery Volts and some other stuff you can change through.

 

[Speedkills]

I had a few other ideas, these I think are within the realm of Gap tool capabilities as they are related to suspension.
1. Use modern phone angle sensing capabilities (like those used to create all of the spirit level apps) to allow us to put the phone on a surface we would like to be level like the console or rear sleeping platform, and auto-level the vehicle.

2. For people with adjustable length rods, the kind that have a threaded rod in the center, let the app guide the user through adjusting the rods to equalize the sensor positions to give people the maximum adjustment range possible. These rods aren't hugely popular right now but I think they could be much more popular if your tool made them as easy to use as possible. I would picture it like this maybe, given a calibrated vehicle, you use the software to determine how much to adjust each rod length and tell the user, either through an absolute length ("lengthen LF rod by .3") or if you wanted to get fancy, given the thread size/pitch give the user actual instructions like ("lengthen LF rod by 4 turns") then automatically recalibrate the suspension settings for the rod length changes, resulting in no change to ride height, but more adjustment ability.

3. This one I really want, add two more presets and unlock the left/right split so I can add a Tilt Left and Tilt Right setting for when I am just an inch away from clearing a tree with my roof rack. I think this is a feature H1 Humvee's came with stock.

 

[Speedkills]

One more idea for fun, fake hard buttons for the tool. I have noticed looking in sensor settings that you can see when various buttons are pushed. You could use that knowledge to capture buttons pressed in a way we would never press them in day to day usage, and trigger a setting in the tool. I'll give a use case: I usually leave my tool plugged in while off-roading and only take it out when I am done for the day and shutting the truck off. I also tend to have other apps open, maybe a gps track of the trail I am on and don't love switching apps, reconnecting to the tool, going through the right menu to find suspension height changes for example. As long as the tool is plugged in, you could watch for something like holding the front or rear windshield heater button down for 3 seconds, and use that to cycle through suspension height presets.

 

[gatorgrizz27]

I had a few other ideas, these I think are within the realm of Gap tool capabilities as they are related to suspension.

3. This one I really want, add two more presets and unlock the left/right split so I can add a Tilt Left and Tilt Right setting for when I am just an inch away from clearing a tree with my roof rack. I think this is a feature H1 Humvee's came with stock.

This would be awesome. Last week I was passing between two trees on the trail that were about 2” wider than my LR3, with the mirrors folded in. Unfortunately one side had a root right under the mud and the other didn’t, creating about a 6” off camber situation that made one of the trees get way into the mirror base/fender of the vehicle, and required ratchet strapping it out of the way to squeeze by.



I don’t even care if it’s another preset option, I’d just like buttons to tap or hold down temporarily in order to level each corner, or force the body vertical, like the how the calibration works. I suppose I could have used the calibration function incorrectly to get out of this spot, but then I’d have to recalibrate it continue running safely.

I understand the safety implications of a vehicle driving with the air struts at all different lengths, I’d be fine if it only worked under 5 mph and then automatically reverted to the last setting it was on above that speed, like the automatic lowering above 35 mph.

I’d also really like the ability to manually lock the center diff in modes other than rock crawl. There are a lot of short, tight, sandy hill climbs we do where if you start spinning tires off the line you’re done and have to back up, but you need more speed and wheel spin once you’re moving than rock crawl mode and low range allow.

Ideally, I’d like the touch screen with the 4x4 info screen that shows the CDL to function as the actual button to lock and unlock it by tapping, but I’d take toggling it on and off through the app or even a regular electrical switch.

Has anybody tried hacking the t-case wiring to add a manual override for it?

 

[gatorgrizz27]

^ I just went out and messed around with the menus, while I didn’t actually do it I think it is possible to do what I want regarding leveling.

Under the Save/Restore tab from the main menu, you can save your current settings, which should include the suspension calibration. You can then go to the suspension calibration page, select manual calibration (rather than the guided one I did before), and you can toggle each corner up and down.

Obviously this won’t auto level, but you should be able to get close enough by sitting in the car/RTT and feeling it, or even using a ping pong/tennis ball with regards to level sleeping.

Then, when you leave you should be able to go to the Restore tab and upload the correct calibration for driving rather than going through the process again. Sweet!

A word of warning as I started mildly freaking out: I went under the Service/test tab and hit “Deflate corners” assuming it might somehow just deflate the ones that were the most compressed and auto level the vehicle. It dropped it to the bumpstops which was fine, but it also triggered a fault code that kept resetting every time I cleared it and wouldn’t let the vehicle raise back up. Eventually I found the “Re-enable EAS” button and all is well!

I found nothing regarding the CDL though, even “testing” it to get it to lock and unlock, so I’d appreciate any info on that.