Garaging a 102 " trailer in a 95 " Garage

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

I hope this thread is not annoying and a tired subject. I need to loose 7 " to fit my Trailer Marker in my garage. I live at 7,000 feet and average 20-30 feet of snow. Indoor storage in my area is 350 a mo. I have 30" tires and the low spot on trailer when the wheels are off are the timbren brake drums. My garage opening is only 3" wider then fenders on trailer. I want to go in nose first ( so side entry door is accessible). My plan is to pull wheels off and lower all 4 stab jacks onto separate wheel dollies. The ones designed to lower cars tires onto so mechanics can move cars around w/o starting the engine. Hoping that the trailer will drop 7" before the brake drum make contact. Have a small lip wear cement meets asphalt to get over but it's very minimal.

Wondering if anyone had a better idea?

 

[NatersXJ6]

Do you own or rent? Can you just build a strong wood a-frame to keep the snow off and park it outside? I assume this is all-winter storage?

If you’re super committed, you could pull the axle out for long term storage?

 

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

Own. Hoa won't allow me build anything like that. I could pay 4-5 k to raise the garage to 110". Thanks for responding

 

[Buddha.]

Can you roll it on the brake drums? Or make plywood “wheels” just bigger than your drums?

 

[yfarm]

Tried the dolly thing with a Casita wouldnt go up the edge between the drive and the garage slab without twisting and deflecting, used 2 wheels without tires, if you have 5 bolt hubs try 12” wheels if will clear your brakes.

 

[NatersXJ6]

Can you dig down into the garage and lower the floor?

Re-slabbing a floor probably costs close to the same $4-5k in most places as raising a door opening, but that is only about a year of covered rent at the prices you quoted earlier.

You might be able to get really low if you built steel rails on the floor and put little tiny wheels on the bottom to ride those rails. That would also keep you aligned as you go through the door.

While it is usually considered better to store suspensions at full droop, you could ratchet strap the suspension into full compression before storing to gain a few inches too.

Otherwise, I’ve got nothing.

 

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

Tried the dolly thing with a Casita wouldnt go up the edge between the drive and the garage slab without twisting and deflecting, used 2 wheels without tires, if you have 5 bolt hubs try 12” wheels if will clear your brakes.

What kind of dolly did you have ? Do you think a high quality one would not deflect? I will try and find some 8 or 10 inch rims. That way I might get an 1" + with suspension weighted. Think she would roll in on rims? Only 2,300 pounds dry. Thanks

 

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

Can you roll it on the brake drums? Or make plywood “wheels” just bigger than your drums?

Thanks. If I can't find rims that work plywood maybe an option. Think they would roll?

 

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

Can you dig down into the garage and lower the floor?

Re-slabbing a floor probably costs close to the same $4-5k in most places as raising a door opening, but that is only about a year of covered rent at the prices you quoted earlier.

You might be able to get really low if you built steel rails on the floor and put little tiny wheels on the bottom to ride those rails. That would also keep you aligned as you go through the door.

While it is usually considered better to store suspensions at full droop, you could ratchet strap the suspension into full compression before storing to gain a few inches too.

Otherwise, I’ve got nothing.

Thank you. The rail idea is interesting!

 

[NatersXJ6]

Think about the wheels that gates roll on. They go on a piece of 1” or 1-1/2” angle turned sideways and use a v-groove steel wheel. Some large truck gates can be hundreds of lbs. bearings, wheels, all commercially available and easy to build with.

Or you could go really crazy and just cut 2 trenches in the floor down the wheelpaths. They could be as deep as it takes to get your frame right near the ground/floor level, then you never have to mess with tires when you want to go out.

 

[billiebob]

I have the same problem.
I remove the 31" tires and install 8" utility rims and 4.80x8 tires. They are even highway legal.
They have like 1" of back space and cost $30 ?? each.
I'm also spring over so switching to spring under gains another 5".
My hitch, normally 18" off the ground is now 8" so I slammed the trailer 10". I could pull the tires and roll on steel for another 4".
I should be looking for a slammed Nissan hardbody to tow it.

No matter what I'd find wheels that work, maybe even rims without tires...
4 jacks will be more expensive and less stable than 2 cheap rims which will roll over the transition.

 

[NatersXJ6]

What kind of garage door do you have? Lots of openers actually hang lower than the door opening itself. Make sure your 95” is the right measurement? I may or may not have a dent In The roof of an FJ40 to remind me of that lesson… no photo… no proof!

 

[ttengineer]

Thanks. If I can't find rims that work plywood maybe an option. Think they would roll?

I wouldn’t do plywood.

I’d make an A frame with caster wheels. That way it can move in any direction, will be cheap and as low as possible.

The question is, do you have at least 8” from the ground to the drum brake? If not, you’ll never get it low enough, unless you also remove the brakes and can drop it down to the axle.


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[billiebob]

I need to loose 7 " to fit my Trailer Marker in my garage. I have 30" tires

so you need to lose 7"(2)....14" off the 30" tire which means you need a wheel or wheel tire no taller than 16"......
get the cheapest 15" or 16" rims you can find and roll on the steel.

 

[Obsessed2findARuggedHybid]

Thanks! My timbren brake hubs are 12 ". Wonder if they make 14" rims?