FourByLand
Expedition Leader
Very nice Justin!
But a little rain won't hurt it!
But a little rain won't hurt it!
Gear's Baja JK Thread
- Thread starter Gear
- Start date
XXXpedition
Explorer
that's one nice build, congrats justin!
now i'm gettn really jelous
sven
now i'm gettn really jelous
sven
FourByLand
Expedition Leader
Gear said:Jerry and Ryan working on the rear end.:shakin:
Aww, I just caught that.
Have you had a chance to test the flex at all? Glad that you didn't compromise any ride quality.
XXXpedition
Explorer
well, the problem is that i cannot do everything i want due to tech. inspection here in germany. and i don't know anybody. i'd like to develop a roof rack but i can't pay to have it done by somebody. and here are very few people who have shops...
you can say that loud....
Gear
Explorer, Overland Certified OC0020
FourByLand wrote "Have you had a chance to test the flex at all? Glad that you didn't compromise any ride quality. "
Not exactly. I am having some difficulties with the rear swaybar and the very deep backspacing of the AEV Bridger wheels. Poly Performance has designed a very nice shock relocation bracket that moves the shocks up 2". Unfortunately with the wheels so far inboard the rear swaybars need to be moved to the inside of the swaybar to clear the tire. See photographs. For now I have crossed up the driverside so the bottom is on the outside and the top is on the inside. It is working but does not look very good. Poly Performance is suggesting I get wheel spacers. Not really interested in doing this. My thoughts are to remove the shock relocation bracket and reweld new shock tabs on but move them up and out of the way. This if done right would allow me to move the swaybar to the inside on the bottom.
Poly Performance Rear Shock Relocation Brackets.
This photograph shows the rear swaybar link crossed up. The top is on the inside and the bottom is on the outside. You will also see that the new shock bracket is braced off of the swaybar tab. This is why I think I need to reweld new tabs on. So that I can make room for the swaybars to be moved to the inside. This is really only necessary for the driverside.
This is a close up of the bracket with the swaybar crossed up. Eventually if all was good you would be able to cut off the section below the relocation bracket. Effectively gaining 2" of ground clearance.
Well any thoughts!!!!!!!!!!
Not exactly. I am having some difficulties with the rear swaybar and the very deep backspacing of the AEV Bridger wheels. Poly Performance has designed a very nice shock relocation bracket that moves the shocks up 2". Unfortunately with the wheels so far inboard the rear swaybars need to be moved to the inside of the swaybar to clear the tire. See photographs. For now I have crossed up the driverside so the bottom is on the outside and the top is on the inside. It is working but does not look very good. Poly Performance is suggesting I get wheel spacers. Not really interested in doing this. My thoughts are to remove the shock relocation bracket and reweld new shock tabs on but move them up and out of the way. This if done right would allow me to move the swaybar to the inside on the bottom.
Poly Performance Rear Shock Relocation Brackets.
This photograph shows the rear swaybar link crossed up. The top is on the inside and the bottom is on the outside. You will also see that the new shock bracket is braced off of the swaybar tab. This is why I think I need to reweld new tabs on. So that I can make room for the swaybars to be moved to the inside. This is really only necessary for the driverside.
This is a close up of the bracket with the swaybar crossed up. Eventually if all was good you would be able to cut off the section below the relocation bracket. Effectively gaining 2" of ground clearance.
Well any thoughts!!!!!!!!!!
XXXpedition
Explorer
we had that too (VERY unusual for here...) and i went topless a couple of days ago:wings:
what tube size did you use? what wall width? any movement with the kayak onboard? do you happen to know the rough weight of your rack?
so many questions...sorry!
thx
sven
Gear
Explorer, Overland Certified OC0020
XXXpedition wrote "what tube size did you use? what wall width? any movement with the kayak onboard? do you happen to know the rough weight of your rack?"
Tube size is 1.5" on the side bars that go from the A pillar to the rear bumper. The cross bars are 1.25". We were trying to save a little weight plus the span is not as long. We used these disconnects on all of the cross members.(see photograph). I think the thickness on the tube was 1.25 cold rolled tube does that sound right. I'll ask Joe the fabricator when I talk to him. The rack is solid with the kayak. I get a little side to side movement in the back when I shake it with my hand. I wanted the cross members to be removable so the hard top could easily be taken on and off. This presented a little problem when trying to triangulate the corners to make the rack ridged. I am hopping that once I install the top plate(flat piece of aluminum or King Starlite XL) this will anchor all the corners and tighten up the rack. Weight I did not get, but it is lighter than you would think.
Here are the quick disconnects for the cross members.
Quick front shot.
Here is a shot of the 1.5" tube that runs from the A pillar to the rear bumper. Notice there are no cross members installed.
Ladder and at the top you will see a pipe with a bend. This pipe has one removable bolt that goes to the side bar. This was used to triangulate the corner. The problem again was I need to be able to remove it for the hard top.
Another shot of the triangulated corner.
Here is my old rack with the aluminum on top. Makes for a great platform to stand, sleep, and store things. The new rack I am looking at using King Starlite XL(Plastic foam core sheet)
Tube size is 1.5" on the side bars that go from the A pillar to the rear bumper. The cross bars are 1.25". We were trying to save a little weight plus the span is not as long. We used these disconnects on all of the cross members.(see photograph). I think the thickness on the tube was 1.25 cold rolled tube does that sound right. I'll ask Joe the fabricator when I talk to him. The rack is solid with the kayak. I get a little side to side movement in the back when I shake it with my hand. I wanted the cross members to be removable so the hard top could easily be taken on and off. This presented a little problem when trying to triangulate the corners to make the rack ridged. I am hopping that once I install the top plate(flat piece of aluminum or King Starlite XL) this will anchor all the corners and tighten up the rack. Weight I did not get, but it is lighter than you would think.
Here are the quick disconnects for the cross members.
Quick front shot.
Here is a shot of the 1.5" tube that runs from the A pillar to the rear bumper. Notice there are no cross members installed.
Ladder and at the top you will see a pipe with a bend. This pipe has one removable bolt that goes to the side bar. This was used to triangulate the corner. The problem again was I need to be able to remove it for the hard top.
Another shot of the triangulated corner.
Here is my old rack with the aluminum on top. Makes for a great platform to stand, sleep, and store things. The new rack I am looking at using King Starlite XL(Plastic foam core sheet)
Last edited:
XXXpedition
Explorer
thanks for the detailed answer!
just for interest: why didn't you take a perforated aluminum?seems to me it would have several advantages: lighter, easier to hook stuff to, etc.