Gen 3 Brake Upgrade / Replacement
- Thread starter skiman384
- Start date
coffeegoat
Adventurer
I did upgraded rotors and pads but I needed replacement so I didn't do a ton of research just picked reputable and reasonably priced parts. The details are in my Sig, and there are several others who have upgraded the discs if you look around, nothing crazy that I've seen.
Michael Brown
You followed me, so now we're both lost
I have always used OEM pads with OEM rotors or Raybesto solid rotors. Heavier towing could use some mild EBC pads, but I have not had any issues towing with my trailer. I usually have 2000-2500lbs on it when I take the race car to the track.
Slotted and drilled rotors will increase the initial bite of the brakes, but it will decrease the overall lifespan while increasing noise and dust. They are more useful for track driving where brake fade, heat soak, and vapor lock are serious issues.
Slotted and drilled rotors will increase the initial bite of the brakes, but it will decrease the overall lifespan while increasing noise and dust. They are more useful for track driving where brake fade, heat soak, and vapor lock are serious issues.
Offroadmuch
Explorer
Here are some Mitsubishi OEM for example:
http://oemmitsubishiparts.com/2003-...es-brake_components-brake_pads_MZ690183-item/
$49.88
Search for your exact part.
http://oemmitsubishiparts.com/2003-...es-brake_components-brake_pads_MZ690183-item/
$49.88
Search for your exact part.
MoabRefugee
Observer
IMO, drilled rotors are a no go for overlanding, and slotted rotors' only advantage in our application is quicker "clearing" of the pad, which might be an aid for wet/muddy conditions. I have a complete set of Centric Premium rotors and Akebono Pro ACT pads stacked in the corner of my shop, just waiting for me to get motivated enough to brave trip digit heat.
I used the same combo on Mrs. Refugee's '13 Camry, and the increased bite at light pedal pressures was a definite improvement over the OEM compound, and there was very little, if any break-in.
Akebono ACT 867 F; ACT868 R
Centric Premium 120.46062 F; 120.46063 R
I used the same combo on Mrs. Refugee's '13 Camry, and the increased bite at light pedal pressures was a definite improvement over the OEM compound, and there was very little, if any break-in.
Akebono ACT 867 F; ACT868 R
Centric Premium 120.46062 F; 120.46063 R
Just did the brakes on our Gen 3 and went with a slotted brake rotor. I do have minor concerns with the slots loading up with mud/dirt should I do any water crossings, but the benefits are there with regards to keeping the pads fresh. At least that is my personal experience with slotted rotors on my sports cars. I agree with the others about the drilled rotors. They are less than ideal and I avoid them at all costs unless there are no other options available.
Here is my build thread: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/161367-Modest-2002-Montero-Build?p=2310238#post2310238
Here is my build thread: http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/161367-Modest-2002-Montero-Build?p=2310238#post2310238
Offroadmuch
Explorer
Just purchased some new larger tires so I am considering improving braking ability. Did you also do the front? I would not expect any improvement with just doing the rear since the front do most of the work.
MoabRefugee
Observer
Using different compound pads is an easy way to play with brake bias. Although the fronts, ultimately, are capable of greater braking force due to forward weight transfer(braking/downhill/etc.) using a more aggressive pad in the rear, does still increase overall braking performance up to the point rear traction is exceeded. Increasing rear brake bias/and or performance, is often desirable while towing. Race vehicles, and rally cars in particular, often have adjustable brake bias to aid in rotating the car, or decreasing brake induced understeer.
In general, mo' braking, is a good thing. If I towed, I would have considered slotted rotors; under hard use, the slots help to prevent pad float, as they allow pad gasses to "escape" from the contact surface. Modern compounds are very stable, but with a trailer, in a panic stop, you may encounter it.
For pure offroad use, I would prioritize modulation over ultimate stopping power. With good modulation, creeping over/off of, say, a sand covered rock, is doable. A stronger pad, with less "feel" would make that more difficult. ABS can be problematic in scenarios such as this, imo.
Offroadmuch
Explorer
I was looking at Rockauto and saw the Akebono and Centric products. Do you (or anyone) know how one brand of OEM style (non-slotted and non-drilled) rotors are better than any other? In other words for a piece of metal with no moving parts why would I pay 40.79 when I can pay 11.56. Not trying to sound like a smart@ss at all. There are some areas with automotive stuff that I know nothing about and this is one of them. I can see how premium brake pads would have a noticeable difference in performance and quality but I don't see the connection with rotors.
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And please post up on performance when you do your brakes.