Gen 3 - Transfer case lights flashing under engagement

[All-Terrain]

I have put my 2006 Montero into 4H many times without issue, including a couple times over the last few weeks to exercise it for the winter time.

Yesterday we had snow and temps in the 20-30s. I put the lever into 4H and would hear a gentle clunk from the transfer case, but the front two lights kept flashing instead of going solid to show a good engagement. I cycled it quite a few times over the course of the day, with the truck cold and hot, while sitting and while moving etc, but same issue occurred.

Today temps are in the 40s, there is good melting going on, I can see water dripping off the underside of the truck. Same issue, no improvement.

I drove it in some snow yesterday and it seemed that 4H was properly engaged, even though the lights were not showing it, but it was difficult to tell for sure.

Any ideas on the best way to diagnose and go forward?

Thanks!

 

[All-Terrain]

I should also add that after trying 4H, I then shifted the transfer case into 4HLC. The center diff locked up right away, but the two front wheels were still not showing engaged. I shifted into 4LLC and experienced the same. I have driven in some deep snow on purpose also, to get the wheels to slip a little and see if that would help the engagement, but no luck.

 

[Michael Brown]

If the front lights are flashing, then it is an issue with the free-wheel clutch system and its components. Since you say it drives the front wheels, then the clutch, solenoid, and actuator should be working. There is a sensor on the end of the actuator to confirm that the system shifted properly. You probably just need to check that this switch is not stuck and grease the rod under the actuator boot. It is at the end of the wire going to the free-wheel assembly to the left of the front diff in the picture below.
You can also play with the vacuum lines on the actuator to move the shaft both directions to check that the valve is working. I had to replace an actuator after the valve inside would not move with proper vacuum pressure.
I've attached some articles about the 4WD light issues below the picture.



http://4wd.blogeasy.com/article.view.run?articleID=318776
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=15577

 

[All-Terrain]

Thanks Michael Brown!

At this point, as I've been cycling the transfer case more yesterday, I'm not sure if it's engaging the front wheels. I don't hear or feel any engagement happening.

When you shift into 4H, what happens next in the system to drive the front wheels? I need to start at the beginning and work my way through the system to troubleshoot one step at a time.

 

[All-Terrain]

So I think I found my issue. Behind the accordion boot at the front diff actuator was this:



I'm guessing these two rods are supposed to be connected by a pin that's wire-locked? Or maybe a small bolt?

And the boot was barely hanging on, because someone has been behind it before, apparently. So I'll have to zip-tie that into place until I can find the necessary parts.

Also, the "cup" that goes into the diff around the rod is a little mangled, as if some pliers or a big flathead have done some nasty work against it. Wondering if I should gently tap it back into place against the housing?

Comments?

 

[All-Terrain]

I put a small bolt through the joint of the two rods (needed the transfer case lever set to 2H with the truck running), and tightened it down with washers and two bolts to lock it into place for now. Transfer case cycles perfectly now. I used hose clamps to put the boot back into place. I'll have to work on sourcing the correct parts, but at least it's all working properly for now.

 

[Michael Brown]

That is definitely your problem. If I remember mine correctly, a pin goes through the holes, and that collar on the right side of your picture holds it in place. I would use a small bolt with a nylon nut to allow it to still flex some at that joint if you cannot find a pin that works. A spring pin should do the trick nicely though. Also make sure to grease up that rod, especially near the diff. The "cup" should be OK, but a few taps to reshape it couldn't hurt. It almost looks like someone disabled the system or the pin just fell out because they didn't replace the metal collar.