Genright and Fowmaster
- Thread starter SES50
- Start date
i had that gas tank on my JK before i sold it. FYI, the tank itself and skid was beautiful. the welds were artwork. the installation instructions were dismal / wrong and i had to purchase some more fuel lines from a auto parts store as there wasnt enough provided. i had to call in to genright to get some help and their "specialist" didnt even know how the JKs fuel system worked. i was not impressed.
as far as exhaust, you're going to have to have it dump pre-axle. i already had a dynomax (i think was the brand) krawler exhaust. it dumped right under the rear seat on the drivers side. zero issues as far as exhaust smell in the cab, but i was on a 3'' lift on 37 in tires.
a "custom" exhaust would probably be the way to go really. its just a little welding, exhaust pipe and a muffler.
as far as exhaust, you're going to have to have it dump pre-axle. i already had a dynomax (i think was the brand) krawler exhaust. it dumped right under the rear seat on the drivers side. zero issues as far as exhaust smell in the cab, but i was on a 3'' lift on 37 in tires.
a "custom" exhaust would probably be the way to go really. its just a little welding, exhaust pipe and a muffler.
I agree that you get no exhaust smell in the cab dumping it pre-axle, and I'm burning diesel.
The GenRight tank, once installed, is fantastic. Mine fills a little slow and the front (stock) tank fills really slow due to excessive foam. I think this is a problem with the vent line plumbing. Also the diesel, which foams more than gas. Doubling your range is great though.
The GenRight tank, once installed, is fantastic. Mine fills a little slow and the front (stock) tank fills really slow due to excessive foam. I think this is a problem with the vent line plumbing. Also the diesel, which foams more than gas. Doubling your range is great though.
All, thanks for the input. I purchased the tank yesterday. When looking into the replacement of the rear swaybar I noticed this from Currie:
Keep note; Jeeps will have more body roll than stock. This sway bar can be used on the street but it will not offer the same handling capabilities as the stock set-up.
This is a concern. Anyone have any input on the feel of the Currie verse stock? I just fixed all the body roll issues I was having (traction control kicking on at highway speed going around sweeping corners) and just mounted a GOBI roof rack. Since I am going to be over landing with this vehicle more than rock crawling maybe I should contact a swaybar manufacture to have a stiffer swaybar made up than what Currie offers. Their brackets would not be hard to duplicate.
Anyone know the center diameter on the Currie bar and the arm length from hole to hole? If I know that I can calculate the stiffness between the Currie bar and the stock bar on the jeep.
Thanks
SES50
Keep note; Jeeps will have more body roll than stock. This sway bar can be used on the street but it will not offer the same handling capabilities as the stock set-up.
This is a concern. Anyone have any input on the feel of the Currie verse stock? I just fixed all the body roll issues I was having (traction control kicking on at highway speed going around sweeping corners) and just mounted a GOBI roof rack. Since I am going to be over landing with this vehicle more than rock crawling maybe I should contact a swaybar manufacture to have a stiffer swaybar made up than what Currie offers. Their brackets would not be hard to duplicate.
Anyone know the center diameter on the Currie bar and the arm length from hole to hole? If I know that I can calculate the stiffness between the Currie bar and the stock bar on the jeep.
Thanks
SES50
I have noticed a bit more roll than stock once we added:
4" Metalcloak lift
The Gen Right tank
Heavier motor and trans
Currie rear anti-rock bar
Is it the Currie bar that is the cause? Hard to say. We also have a Gobi rack, with a road shower, Hi-Lift, shovel, Maxtrax, and awning mounted to it. I really only notice the roll in clover leaf freeway ramps or other high speed tight corners. We did add the Currie Anti-Rock front bar and had to remove that due to excess body roll. With all the other mods, the Currie front wasn't stiff enough, so we went back to the stock front anti-sway bar.
Sorry, I don't have the dimensions on the Currie rear, maybe I can get those later today.
4" Metalcloak lift
The Gen Right tank
Heavier motor and trans
Currie rear anti-rock bar
Is it the Currie bar that is the cause? Hard to say. We also have a Gobi rack, with a road shower, Hi-Lift, shovel, Maxtrax, and awning mounted to it. I really only notice the roll in clover leaf freeway ramps or other high speed tight corners. We did add the Currie Anti-Rock front bar and had to remove that due to excess body roll. With all the other mods, the Currie front wasn't stiff enough, so we went back to the stock front anti-sway bar.
Sorry, I don't have the dimensions on the Currie rear, maybe I can get those later today.
So I found out some info today from Currie. Their Bar is 50" long and the center section is 1" diameter. I am looking into a couple other companies to replace the bar with a bar that is not cut down so much in the middle. If you or someone else couple tell me what the outside spline diameter and the spline count that would save me having to buy a Currie arm and possibly having to send it back. I can buy all the Currie piece parts on Summit and just put in a different manufactures bar.
Another piece to remember is that the front anti-sway bar has more effect than the rear. Maybe you try the Currie rear and if you don't like it, put a heavier front bar on the Jeep. Hell wig makes one they say is beefier than the stock front bar.
I am told, but didn't do a comparison myself, that the Currie rear bar is stiffer than the stock rear bar. You may not have to do much. A call to Currie may answer all your questions.
I am told, but didn't do a comparison myself, that the Currie rear bar is stiffer than the stock rear bar. You may not have to do much. A call to Currie may answer all your questions.
I talked to Currie and they said it is softer than the stock to support large articulation. The bar for the rear JK kit is 1" diameter which is the biggest diameter they make. Their suggestion is to go to shorter arms which does increase the force but also moves the sway bar links more out of the vertical plane. My current thought is to get a 1.25" hollow bar from Speedway Engineering and recreate the Currie concept with a larger diameter bar and make my own mounts. Need to find out what the spline count is on the Currie arms and see if I can use them on the Speedway bar.
Started
Started the Genright fuel tank install this weekend with the rear floor cutting. That was some serious pucker factor when I finally decided to start cutting. Turned out pretty good. I ended up building a strap duplicator because I did not want to wait for amazon to deliver one. I liked the idea of using a strap duplicator over flipping the plate over and using the opposite side holes to drill the holes.
Also ordered the Currie Rear Antirock today. When looking at having a custom swaybar made it was cheaper to buy the Currie sway bar kit and having a custom bar made than it was to buy just the currie parts I needed and make the custom bar. I will install the Currie Rear Antirock Kit when it shows up and see if it is stiff enough and then decide if I need to make another Bar through Speedway Engineering.
Rough Cut Out.
![20170114_132223[1].jpg](https://expeditionportal.com/forum/data/attachments/296/296701-767bb308a8c4d05c73981cb58cf4f1db.jpg "20170114_132223[1].jpg")
Drilling the holes with the strap duplicator in place. Right side of the plate between the clamp and the drill.
![20170115_084254[1].jpg](https://expeditionportal.com/forum/data/attachments/296/296703-c054b65a2244bef701e41a4134aa05a1.jpg "20170115_084254[1].jpg")
Picture of the working end of my homemade strap duplicator.
![20170115_092656[1].jpg](https://expeditionportal.com/forum/data/attachments/296/296704-fb1a2ab4068dab49c000f3a7c6799c24.jpg "20170115_092656[1].jpg")
Started the Genright fuel tank install this weekend with the rear floor cutting. That was some serious pucker factor when I finally decided to start cutting. Turned out pretty good. I ended up building a strap duplicator because I did not want to wait for amazon to deliver one. I liked the idea of using a strap duplicator over flipping the plate over and using the opposite side holes to drill the holes.
Also ordered the Currie Rear Antirock today. When looking at having a custom swaybar made it was cheaper to buy the Currie sway bar kit and having a custom bar made than it was to buy just the currie parts I needed and make the custom bar. I will install the Currie Rear Antirock Kit when it shows up and see if it is stiff enough and then decide if I need to make another Bar through Speedway Engineering.
Rough Cut Out.
Drilling the holes with the strap duplicator in place. Right side of the plate between the clamp and the drill.
Picture of the working end of my homemade strap duplicator.
Attachments
![20170114_132459[1].jpg](/data/attachments/296/296702-b82513c40ae425aaa37dc3f394d738a6.jpg)
Fuel Valve
I'm in the process of installing the Genright tank this weekend. I have the main tank lowered and am running fuel lines and wiring harness. Genrights instructions suck ***. Impressed with their product but man does their instructions suck. Anyway...
Can anyone with a dual tanks system installed take a picture of where the fuel selector valve was installed on their jk? I think I know where Genright wants me to put it but it looks like it gets really close to the rear track bar in full compression.
Thanks
SES50
I'm in the process of installing the Genright tank this weekend. I have the main tank lowered and am running fuel lines and wiring harness. Genrights instructions suck ***. Impressed with their product but man does their instructions suck. Anyway...
Can anyone with a dual tanks system installed take a picture of where the fuel selector valve was installed on their jk? I think I know where Genright wants me to put it but it looks like it gets really close to the rear track bar in full compression.
Thanks
SES50
Well the fuel tank is finally installed. What a project. So the first tank they sent me was actually the wrong tank. The fill port was on the drivers side which is designed to fill directly from the filler neck.
Wrong Tank
Since I am doing a dual tank install the filler port needed to be in the middle of the tank to fill from the tube going from the filler neck to the existing tank. Genright did not have any tanks in stock so they need to make me a new tank and skid plate. That only took them 1.5 months. As they were building me a new tank anyway I asked them to powder coat the aluminum tank and skid plate since they already powder coat their steel skid plates.
Correct Tank powder coated black
There was a couple mixes ups at Genright but Andrew there is a really great guys and work through them to make things right. Leaving Thursday for the Mojave Road so we will see how far 42 Gallons will get me.
Wrong Tank
Since I am doing a dual tank install the filler port needed to be in the middle of the tank to fill from the tube going from the filler neck to the existing tank. Genright did not have any tanks in stock so they need to make me a new tank and skid plate. That only took them 1.5 months. As they were building me a new tank anyway I asked them to powder coat the aluminum tank and skid plate since they already powder coat their steel skid plates.
Correct Tank powder coated black
There was a couple mixes ups at Genright but Andrew there is a really great guys and work through them to make things right. Leaving Thursday for the Mojave Road so we will see how far 42 Gallons will get me.