I love my 2016 lr4 with 67k on the odometer. But My wife and I are planning some very long trips. I’m on my third check engine light in 3k miles, all of them are emission and fuel system related. Should I be looking at another vehicle? I’m worried about breaking down in some very remote country, and I'm losing confidence very quickly. I’d probably keep it as a daily, even if we get another platform. Opinions?
Give it to me straight
- Thread starter MrWiggles
- Start date
Mickey Bitsko
Adventurer
Take it to the dealership get it fixed right.
Should be cheaper than buying another vehicle.
Should be cheaper than buying another vehicle.
Years ago I would have said to fix it and drive it. I'm beginning to think those days are numbered for the latest vehicles produced over the last 10 years, especially JLR's. The cost of repairs if the issue gets serious has absolutely exploded to a level unsustainable. I have serious doubts about the long term viability of some manufacturers. I think this is one reason older vehicles are getting so much love and prices have jumped to levels I would not have expected because they are simpler and cheaper to fix and service.
First, where are you located? Maybe a dealer isn't the best choice for good low cost diagnosis/service. Also, more detail on the 'emission and fuel system' issues would help. Assuming you have the V6?
First, where are you located? Maybe a dealer isn't the best choice for good low cost diagnosis/service. Also, more detail on the 'emission and fuel system' issues would help. Assuming you have the V6?
Ray_G
Explorer
Do you have a tool to determine what the code actually is? (IID). I have had emissions codes on for 100k....wanna guess how many times it had left me stranded?
Yes these vehicles are more reliant on systems, but those systems are far more reliable. It's also worth noting they report a lot more than what would combat deadline a truck.
Anyway you slice it though the key here is getting the tools to know what is going on and the knowledge about the implications.
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Yes these vehicles are more reliant on systems, but those systems are far more reliable. It's also worth noting they report a lot more than what would combat deadline a truck.
Anyway you slice it though the key here is getting the tools to know what is going on and the knowledge about the implications.
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Victory_Overland
Explorer
Yep, curious to see the codes; at 86k it could be as simple as a fuel cap, PCV valve, etc.
I replaced the fuel cap, but no luck. The light sometimes goes off after I fuel up but turns back on after a while.
I’ll get the code tomorrow.
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dreadlocks
Well-known member
If your going to travel in a modern vehicle take a code reader with you, just takes a few moments and lets you know if its something you should head to town for or just forget about it til later..
Ive driven all over the country in Volkswagens, I always hadda code reader on me.. because the check engine light never went off and it was the only way to know if any new codes came up heh.. I'd say it never left me stranded, but thats only because I had a toolbox in the back.. almost no emissions gear will fail and leave you stranded that quick, they dont start cascading failures unless you never fix em and let a bad oxygen sensor clog up your cat until it wont go anywhere.. 90% of active emissions gear only gets used on cold start to get your engine up to operating temp asap, the rest is passive stuff like cats and vapor scavenging. If any sensors fail on you the computer will ignore the sensor and use a limp mode map that guesses what it should be as a safe medium, it'll still drive but it'll be in a dumb mode w/terrible fuel economy and all that until fixed.. Sounds like your getting the issues fixed promptly when they come up, just keep driving it and keeping on maintenance and I highly doubt it'll let you down at this point.. the best vehicle is one you know and trust.
Ive driven all over the country in Volkswagens, I always hadda code reader on me.. because the check engine light never went off and it was the only way to know if any new codes came up heh.. I'd say it never left me stranded, but thats only because I had a toolbox in the back.. almost no emissions gear will fail and leave you stranded that quick, they dont start cascading failures unless you never fix em and let a bad oxygen sensor clog up your cat until it wont go anywhere.. 90% of active emissions gear only gets used on cold start to get your engine up to operating temp asap, the rest is passive stuff like cats and vapor scavenging. If any sensors fail on you the computer will ignore the sensor and use a limp mode map that guesses what it should be as a safe medium, it'll still drive but it'll be in a dumb mode w/terrible fuel economy and all that until fixed.. Sounds like your getting the issues fixed promptly when they come up, just keep driving it and keeping on maintenance and I highly doubt it'll let you down at this point.. the best vehicle is one you know and trust.
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gatorgrizz27
Well-known member
I have a 2008 LR3 with 170k on the clock, and while I haven’t taken it to foreign countries yet, I regularly play ~ 100 miles deep in the National Forest with no cell signal, walking out isn’t an option, and the nearest road might not have a vehicle pass by for several days.
I have had several emissions related check engine lights, the most common being related to the evap system, which typically comes on after refueling. The other one has been the cats under the efficiency threshold, but is less common. I have had the car die on me twice back in the middle of nowhere, it has always immediately restarted but it can shake your confidence.
From my research, the first time it was likely from the fuel pump relay starting to wear out, as it cut out coming down off a vertical ledge and I found a thread with the exact same symptoms that was traced to it. The relays are also common with other less necessary circuits.
The second time, it was likely due to needing to clean the throttle body as the idle RPM was hunting around and dropping low after stopping on low speed uphill climbs. Again due to reading. Neither time it threw a code.
I, as many other do, consider the GAP IID tool mandatory for these vehicles, even if you never travel off pavement. The repairs I’ve done to my LR3 are no different than any other vehicle. Brake pads, radiator, door lock actuator, water leaking into the cabin, serpentine belt, etc, besides the maintenance schedule being more mandatory than some other vehicles.
The two things unique to modern Land Rovers that can leave you stranded are EAS failures with too large of tires (over 265/65R18) on an LR3 or 4, and interestingly enough the brake pedal switch and rear taillight bulbs. Carry spares of those in the glove box as I do, I had to swap out the brake switch and it’s a tool free job (or Phillips screwdriver for easier access, which is also needed for the taillight bulbs.)
I’d also recommend carrying a PLB in any case, in the event of a medical emergency, rollover, breakdown, etc. I’m not sure what the procedure is in foreign countries, but if you push the button in the US, SAR will arrive eventually.
It’s not to be used for things like a flat tire 5 miles off the highway to save a difficult hike out, but for something like a burnt up alternator in the middle of Death Valley and not having seen someone in 24 hours, I doubt you’d be billed for the rescue.
I have had several emissions related check engine lights, the most common being related to the evap system, which typically comes on after refueling. The other one has been the cats under the efficiency threshold, but is less common. I have had the car die on me twice back in the middle of nowhere, it has always immediately restarted but it can shake your confidence.
From my research, the first time it was likely from the fuel pump relay starting to wear out, as it cut out coming down off a vertical ledge and I found a thread with the exact same symptoms that was traced to it. The relays are also common with other less necessary circuits.
The second time, it was likely due to needing to clean the throttle body as the idle RPM was hunting around and dropping low after stopping on low speed uphill climbs. Again due to reading. Neither time it threw a code.
I, as many other do, consider the GAP IID tool mandatory for these vehicles, even if you never travel off pavement. The repairs I’ve done to my LR3 are no different than any other vehicle. Brake pads, radiator, door lock actuator, water leaking into the cabin, serpentine belt, etc, besides the maintenance schedule being more mandatory than some other vehicles.
The two things unique to modern Land Rovers that can leave you stranded are EAS failures with too large of tires (over 265/65R18) on an LR3 or 4, and interestingly enough the brake pedal switch and rear taillight bulbs. Carry spares of those in the glove box as I do, I had to swap out the brake switch and it’s a tool free job (or Phillips screwdriver for easier access, which is also needed for the taillight bulbs.)
I’d also recommend carrying a PLB in any case, in the event of a medical emergency, rollover, breakdown, etc. I’m not sure what the procedure is in foreign countries, but if you push the button in the US, SAR will arrive eventually.
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It’s not to be used for things like a flat tire 5 miles off the highway to save a difficult hike out, but for something like a burnt up alternator in the middle of Death Valley and not having seen someone in 24 hours, I doubt you’d be billed for the rescue.
merr1ca
Member
This guy Volkswagen's
How did an ECU update correct a fuel pressure problem!?