Gluing to plastic

Photobug

Well-known member
I know this is not really an electrical thread but since my needs for this are for my battery box, I figure others hear have had the same challenge in figuring out how to mount things to plastic boxes. I am using the Ridgid tool box to make a battery box out of and have been trying to mount things to the walls. I do not want to use screws through the cases walls but am hoping to glue an item to the wall and then mount the parts I want in the box using screws.

For my mounting surface i have been trying a peice of trex decking cut to the thickness I need. I have tried hot glue, plastic epoxy, and JB epoxy. So far all 3 glues have failed in that the trex mounting blocks have fallen off when weighted with a component. I was going to try 3M 5200 but know it can make a mess and don't want to gob up my box unless I know it is going to work. I am willing to try anything, any glue and a different mounting surface. Any suggestions?
 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Some plastics require very special adhesives, and even then its dicey. Examples are PE and PP. Others will work with an acceptable epoxy (G flex from west marine works good). Otherwise you can weld the plastic parts together with the right tools.

VHB tape works on some plastics. You can also use a combination of rivets, backing washers, and some adhesive for good results.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
Your best bet will be a combination of screws and thin VHB tape. If you are worried about water infiltration around the screws, just use self tappers or drill your screw hole undersized and add a bit of 5200 as the screw goes in. If it's HDPE, it is almost impossible to glue with any consumer grade or readily available glue. The stuff that is usually sold for HDPE bonds makes a mechanical bond (like rubber cement) rather than a solvent bond. Remember that you are trying to glue two different kinds of plastic, and that further complicates any kind of solvent bond. FWIW, Trex is a mix of unknown (at least to me) resins and recycled wood fibers. To get a solvent bond, you'll need to ID their resin composition. FWIW, Azek decking is 100% PVC and any PVC pipe cement will bond Azek to any other PVC. If you find an ABS box, you could use ABS-to-PVC cement to bond Azek to the ABS box and get a strong bond.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
You need to find out exactly what type of plastic, in order to get suggestions for specialist adhesives.
 

F350joe

Well-known member
What type of plastic is the box made of ?
Nowdays on something that large, surely it bears a material or recycle code.
Fwiw,
If thermoplastic you can weld it.

Btw,
Just remembered from my job,
Innerduct makes a two part adhesive which will stick Innerduct which is HDPE to just about anything.

How well does it stick? I have never found any worth a lick that will stick to HDPE. Plastic welding is kind of fun though.
 

calicamper

Expedition Leader
Most battery boxes are ABS plastic. West system Gflex epoxy is designed for plastics and flexible materials. I used it to bond my Carbon Mast on my racing sail boat. Amazing stuff.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Yep,

> 655-K Plastic Boat Repair Kit is designed for making repairs to plastic canoes, kayaks, and inflatables—whether they’re made from HDPE, LDPE, ABS, PVC or polycarbonate plastic—just got a little bit easier. Plastic Boat Repair Kits features plastic-friendly G/flex 655 toughened epoxy.

These kits contain 8.4 ounces of pre-thickened G/flex epoxy, protective gloves, mixing pallets and mixing sticks. Illustrated, detailed instructions explain how to repair splits and cracks in plastic boats, attach or repair reinforcement points on inflatable boats and repair pinhole leaks in inflatables. All components are contained in a sturdy, resealable package you can store on your plastic boat.
 

Photobug

Well-known member
Embarrased to say. At least for longterm adhesion, I really dont know...
Shortly after I made up a joint, it was staked down if needed and trench backfilled.
But that glue was definitely sold by the manufacturer for gluing their HDPE conduit to PVC or other fittings.

You have to assume this stuff works well given what it is used for. If it is used to be buried and it fails the company could be liable for the cost of excavation and repair at least in the litigious U.S. The problem with this product is it does not come in "alter your tool box" sizes. When I looked it up it came in large industrial sized kits. $450 is a lot to spend to see if the glue works.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
You have to assume this stuff works well given what it is used for. If it is used to be buried and it fails the company could be liable for the cost of excavation and repair at least in the litigious U.S. The problem with this product is it does not come in "alter your tool box" sizes. When I looked it up it came in large industrial sized kits. $450 is a lot to spend to see if the glue works.

Some glue conduit underground and others don't......there's no requirement to glue conduit underground.
 

F350joe

Well-known member
Embarrased to say. At least for longterm adhesion, I really dont know...
Shortly after I made up a joint, it was staked down if needed and trench backfilled.
But that glue was definitely sold by the manufacturer for gluing their HDPE conduit to PVC or other fittings.

I’m going to have to look into it. I’ve tried everything off the shelf at west marine and then some. A plastic expert told nothing works very well with HDPE. According to the stat sheet from innerduct it’s not all that strong but plenty strong for most applications. https://www.innerduct.com/hdpe-glue. I never did see the 655-k stuff will have to check that out.

If you are glueing plastics it does help to heat it up first, scruff it up good and clamp.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
Here's some info.

 

luthj

Engineer In Residence
Flame treating HDPE before bonding or using an adhesive dramatically improves the bond. But you can overdo the flame and reduce the effectiveness.
 

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