With my van fully loaded at or a touch above GVWR. It sits perfectly level with 1" more lift in front . With the lift and before my buildout it still sat higher in the back. I did 3" front and 2" rear suspension lift.Having the back be higher so that fully loaded it would be level. Why would people not want to keep that?
Cool. How do you measure level? On the bottom of the frame?With my van fully loaded at or a touch above GVWR. It sits perfectly level with 1" more lift in front . With the lift and before my buildout it still sat higher in the back. I did 3" front and 2" rear suspension lift.
I tried the KSP first and got 1.25" lift over stock (adjustment bolt in same position for both).
I tried the Shankly next and got 3.25" lift over stock (adjustment bolt in same position for both).
With the 1.25" I felt no difference from stock handling in my 2007 AWD.How the ride with 3.25" lift? I got 1.75" with the F150 keys, but was afraid to crank down too much. It rides nice where it is at. Just wondering if you've noticed anything negative cranked down that much. Thanks.
The RPO code for a 4:10 axle is GT-5, GT-4 is 3:73 and GU-6 is 3:42.. I would like to see a pic of the tag on the axle, I am a little skeptical as GM is very consistent to a fault most of the time....the 4:10 was listed for a 2500 van but possibly not an AWD 5.3 2500?
If you are running your stock shocks they are topping out now and making the van feel harsh in the front, and if you have longer front shocks you are hitting the droop stop with the upper control arm and making the van feel harsh, this happens close to 3", at about 2-2 1/2" it is less harsh. That is really the only issue that could be better, getting some more travel up front helped a lot on big bumps and made me think torsion bars aint' all bad.
Most lifts with bigger tires use lower bumpstops to keep the tires off the fenders and keep the longer shocks from compressing closed, it is proper but so far nobody here has lowered them. Our vans fit the 265-70-17's at stock height so tire rubbing is a non issue and the shocks we run are not much longer under compression, "don't use 2" front shock spacers they will compress your shocks" tried it. Timbren makes some bigger bumpstops they ad spring rate for carrying a plow, I have not seen or used them but have thought about it. Trailready used to make some 1" longer polyurethane ones for a Hummer H-3 that might work in the front, I put some Z-71 factory bumpstops in the front of my van they are a little better. I added a rear sway bar because it did seem like it leaned over onto the front bumpstop when the wind had a strong quick gusts, not a big deal but the rear sway bar stopped it. It used to do the same thing when stock and empty, it would lean over on the rear bumpstop in the same wind conditions, when loaded even a little the rear bumpstop would touch the lower pad and firm the handling right up. Most stock 1500 vans have soft rear springs and almost no rear up travel because they ride on the big bumpstop alot, that is why no sway bar was needed, mine handled good with a little load but big bumps were harsh. The 2" lower rear bumpstop pad will give your rear springs more abuse flexing further, you dont have a thick bottom leaf to fight back. I suspect that is also what you don't like the feel of, the 2900lb rear springs some of us use ride great and the bottom leaf should stop to much compression, and cure any wheel hop................
I think the the 4111 on the axle tag is the tooth count on the ring and pinion 41/11= ~3.73.Interesting axle tag. I have the G80 axle, but mine is "LOC" for the diff for auto locking and under ratio, it has 4.10. Based on the GT4 RPO code you appear to have the 3.73.