Thanks for the washer idea. I might be able get just enough clearance going that route.
Thanks again
GM fullsize AWD Van Info thread
- Thread starter boardrider247
- Start date
Thanks for the washer idea. I might be able get just enough clearance going that route.
Thanks again
stuntman mike
New member
I used just that after speaking with the dealership parts deptartment (it's only $12 a liter and I used 1.5). The one thing I can't get confirmation on is how high to fill the front diff. Common practice was fill until it overflows, but I thought I read about a service bulletin about leaving it shy 12mm/1". I left mine shy, because I replaced an axle seal and didn't want extra pressure, but I'm also concerned about not getting the appropriate amount of oil to the axle bearing.
4wheeldrivevan
Observer
Express 1500 AWD common noises?
Does you Express/Savannah AWD make any strange noises?
My 5.3 has about 180,000 miles on it and I hear a good amount of engine lifter noise, I get a strange noise that sounds like a hydraulic pump whining anytime the vehicle is in motion, clunks from the transmission when starting/stopping as well as shifting from forward to reverse and some wind noise between my driver door and the van frame.
Anyone else experience any of this?
I've run sea foam in the oil which reduced the lifter noise a bit, I've changed the front diff fluid, the transmission fluid is full. I've also got good oil pressure (usually in thec 40 to 50 psi range). I just put in a new radiator and the engine runs cool and a new alternator which gives a steady 14 volts.
I can live with the lifter noise, but the transmission clunking is getting annoying.
Does you Express/Savannah AWD make any strange noises?
My 5.3 has about 180,000 miles on it and I hear a good amount of engine lifter noise, I get a strange noise that sounds like a hydraulic pump whining anytime the vehicle is in motion, clunks from the transmission when starting/stopping as well as shifting from forward to reverse and some wind noise between my driver door and the van frame.
Anyone else experience any of this?
I've run sea foam in the oil which reduced the lifter noise a bit, I've changed the front diff fluid, the transmission fluid is full. I've also got good oil pressure (usually in thec 40 to 50 psi range). I just put in a new radiator and the engine runs cool and a new alternator which gives a steady 14 volts.
I can live with the lifter noise, but the transmission clunking is getting annoying.
eaglevo
Member
I get a pretty hard clunk only when it downshifts to 1st when throttling out of a slow turn or corner. If I ease into the gas, the downshift has no clunk. I've looked at all the drivetrain mounts and universals and everything is tight.
I've got about 250k on mine, similar noises.
An overlooked thing to check are the bushings that are between the cross member the torsion keys are inside of and the frame. If all other bushings check out, then it might be the trans. Pull the pan and check for metal.
Clunking at shift in mine is (I think) from worn sprag clutches. Yours might be something else. If you downshift into 3rd or 2nd and lift off the throttle at a higher speed for the gear you will see the rpms drop all the way down to idle instead of decreasing with speed, then clunk when you get back on the throttle and rpms go back up if it is the sprags. I figure the easiest thing to do is run it until I lose a gear then replace the trans.
I also get the hard clunk that when turning and getting on it in first. I suspect either engine mount or sway bar mount or link bushings. Next time it is in the shop I'll try to diagnose and will try to remember to get back here.
I'm also starting to suspect it might be transfer case related, based on getting some binding at low speed high steering angle binding.
"Lifter" noise for me is from a broken exhaust manifold bolt. If the noise goes away when hot, it is likely exhaust related. If it stays the same or gets louder when hot, might be lifters. If it is an exhaust leak you might get a CEL showing lean condition on bank 1 or 2 with a cat efficiency code for same bank.
For reference, I have replaced LCA bushings and ball joints, UCA's including ball joints and bushings, inner and outer tie rods, shocks, rear springs, u-bolts, hanger and shackle bushings, and rear shocks.
For the wind noise check all your door seals against a newer van (2500 and 3500 are the same and easier to find then a 1500) and see if gaps between door and body are even and consistent.
I HATE drive train noise, and generally go overboard replacing everything I can think of to fix them, but with this van I am starting to learn to live with it and accept that it is part of driving a high mileage van. I have put 80k miles on this van through a lot of rough roads, and despite the noises it has yet to let me down. I drove 800 miles last week, a good portion of that on roads that I was walking lines and wishing for 4low.
Next on my list (after the manifold bolt) is re-gearing with complete front and rear diff rebuild and universal joints front and back. I have slim hope that maybe that might take care of some of the clunking I hear, but probably just wishful thinking.
alejandrof1
New member
Hey dude I just got the same Traxda lift keys and 1 block in the rear. What shocks did you run? Thanks.
Scotty D
Active member
Double check but I THINK these might be the ones.
Not at all 100% though
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYNJAVW/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Not at all 100% though
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYNJAVW/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Teamoatmealpie
Observer
https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/chevy-awd.47398/
Found some good info on shocks in this thread. Didn't know if some else referenced it in the previous 34 pages. In the market for some new shocks all around myself.
Found some good info on shocks in this thread. Didn't know if some else referenced it in the previous 34 pages. In the market for some new shocks all around myself.
Roamin' Chariot
New member
I just had an issue with 2011 Stabilitrak. The van started flashing the Stabilitrak warning and then promptly put the van (2011 AWD GMC) into reduced power mode. I was a long way from a repair shop so between the codes going away after shut-off/restart cycles and/or pulling the battery cables I limped to the dealer. The last day we were driving in route the dealer ... no issues ... the dealer found nothing with the stored codes that led to any repairs. Their recommendation was to disconnect the aftermarket cruise and see if that was the cause since the only consistent error code they found was related to the throttle pedal.
I'll take any help you've got.
Has anyone else had issues the the aftermarket Rostra 250-9608 cruise control for these old cargo vans?
I'll take any help you've got.
Has anyone else had issues the the aftermarket Rostra 250-9608 cruise control for these old cargo vans?
Roamin' Chariot
New member
Just found this at the Rostra site ... perhaps the dealer is on to something.
250-9608 CRUISE CONTROL FALL IN LIMP MODE
Created by: Chris Adams
Modified on: Thu, 4 Apr, 2019 at 10:35 AM
ROSTRA CRUIZE CONTROL , INSTALLED WITH CHEVY EXPRESS 2017 WITH KIT 250-9608
ISSUE WAS CAR FALLS IN LIMP MODE
INSTALL GUIDE USED IS GOOD , BUT CHECK 2 THINGS
THE GROUND WIRE FROM THE HARNESS, WILL BE A BLACK WIRE , THIS MUST BE CUT AND RE GROUNDED TO PIN 4 OBD2
ALSO CHECK IGN WIRE KEY OFF 0VOLTS-12VOLTS WITH KEY ON-10VOLTS ROUGHLY WHEN CRANK
IF THIS ALL IS DONE CORRECTLY AND STILL FAILS , FALLS IN LIMP MODE , THEN CHANGE UNIT.
ROAD TEST 50 OR SO KM MIN AND SEE IF IT WORKS
250-9608 CRUISE CONTROL FALL IN LIMP MODE
Created by: Chris Adams
Modified on: Thu, 4 Apr, 2019 at 10:35 AM
ROSTRA CRUIZE CONTROL , INSTALLED WITH CHEVY EXPRESS 2017 WITH KIT 250-9608
ISSUE WAS CAR FALLS IN LIMP MODE
INSTALL GUIDE USED IS GOOD , BUT CHECK 2 THINGS
THE GROUND WIRE FROM THE HARNESS, WILL BE A BLACK WIRE , THIS MUST BE CUT AND RE GROUNDED TO PIN 4 OBD2
ALSO CHECK IGN WIRE KEY OFF 0VOLTS-12VOLTS WITH KEY ON-10VOLTS ROUGHLY WHEN CRANK
IF THIS ALL IS DONE CORRECTLY AND STILL FAILS , FALLS IN LIMP MODE , THEN CHANGE UNIT.
ROAD TEST 50 OR SO KM MIN AND SEE IF IT WORKS