Goal Zero Yeti 3000 Lithium-Non-Proprietary High-Capacity Solar Panels

[erstwild]

I am planning on picking up a Goal Zero Yeti 3000 Lithium unit for my rig, and I think I will need about 400 watts of solar capacity for my needs. Ideally, I am looking for 2 x 200 watt non-proprietary panels that would still be compatible with this Goal Zero unit. If anyone has any recommendations, that would be a great help to me.

 

[john61ct]

Their controller probably is genuine MPPT, so would benefit from higher voltages than the usual ~20Voc of 12V panels.

But you'd need to know their spec for maximum Voc so you don't fry their internal SC. Get max amps or watts too while you're at it.

Other than that, panels are panels, Renogy has a decent rep for CS, but lots say Grape from Home Depot is fine. For anything special or top quality you have to source locally, or pay a fortune for shipping.

Of course if you want light portability, a semi-flex suitcase version is good, but pricier and won't last as long as frame mounted type.

 

[jonyjoe101]

• Charging port (input, 8mm): 14-22V, up to 10A (120W max)
• Power Pole charging port (input): 14-22V, up to 30A (360W max)
• Expansion Module portCovered port under the lid. To be used with Goal Zero expansion modules only

It has 2 charging ports both at 22 volts max....

There 200 watt boulder solar panel they sell has following connector and voltage....

• Anderson Power Pole: 14-22V, up to 14A (200W max)

The battery itself is....

• Cell chemistry: Li-ion NMC
• Pack capacity: 3075Wh (10.95V, 280.8Ah)

At 280 ah, it will take forever (literally) to charge back up with solar. I know when I take my 94ah li-ion 11.1 volt battery all the way down, it takes about 3 days to get it back up to full with just solar (240 watt panel/mppt).

For panels, you going to need the smaller 100/120 watt panels (connected in parallel), those are in the 21 volt range that the yeti input ports are limited too. The bigger 200 watt panels are usually in the 36 volt range. How I read the power port charging port max of 360 watts is probably a max of 3x120 watt (21 volt panels) connected in parallel is the most you can connect.

Its a shame these "giant" lithium batteries are handicap by its limited charging options, they can handle so much more higher charging rates.


CHARGE TIMES
Standard input max: 9 hrs

• Combined input max (standard and MPPT): 6 hrs
• Wall charger (2x 5A): 25 hrs
• Boulder 100: 34-68 Hours
• Boulder 200 Briefcase: 17-34 Hours

 

[john61ct]

Great reason not to buy one.

If you have a powerful enough charge source you could refill a (much cheaper) plain generic LFP pack in well under an hour.

Maybe there's a way to expose the raw batt terminals?

What actual chemistry are they again?

 

[john61ct]

Keep in mind it will be very rare to actually get panels' rated power.

I'd go with a pair of proper MPPT SCs capable of
- supporting 60+V panel VoC, and say 500W input
- cranking output voltage right up to 21.5V
- limiting output current to the max spec'd for each of the two target ports, 10A and 30A

Then keep adding panels until bright warm days yielded those current rates from 3 hrs after sunrise to 3 hrs before sunset.

And consider other charge sources to help out if when the batt still doesn't doesn't get past 80% Full by end of the solar day.

Of course if you're only using a small fraction of its capacity, this will be less of a problem.

 

[erstwild]

Thank you all so much for your feedback! This is extremely helpful to orient myself around the off-the-shelf limitations of the goal zero units. I'm not too interest in spending that much for those kind of limitations. Perhaps, I could describe my intended consumption patterns to avoid over buying capacity.

I do also have the chance to buy a new Renogy Lycan on a deep discount (1000 watt/hr capacity and 300 watt solar capacity + proper car charging option) at the moment and like renogy panels. I also live and Northern California and get a lot of sun where I will be parking my rig at work during the day.

Regular use:

Dometic 50L Fridge (say 0.8 amp/hour at 12 volts)
2 x Maxxair Deluxe Fans operating at 1 or 2 settings (one exhaust, one intake for no window cracking) (say 0.6 amp/hour at 12 volts)
Maybe High Efficiency LED Rope Lights Strung around cabin (?)
Charge laptop, iphone, power usb hub for basic peripherals, 27 inch LED monitor (might investigate 12 volt monitors in future) (?)

More infrequent use:

Electric guitar + Pedalboard (voodoo lab power supply, 12-18 volt pedals, no big amp just headphones for practice)(I'll have to try to test with my Anker Powerhouse to get an idea of consumption)

Any thoughts on this would be great!

 

[john61ct]

The best battery value by far is Duracell (actually Deka/East Penn) FLA deep cycle golf cart batteries, 2x6V, around $200 per 200+AH pair from BatteriesPlus or Sam's Club

 

[Yeti Tom]

Yep, agree with john61ct. I went with the 230 AH version at about $250 out the door

 

[erstwild]

Run you engine for 1 hr a day... Cost is less than $3 (plus < $300 for a great alternator) and will charge your batteries 80%+.. with a good high output alternator...(rated for high output at idle) gasoline and diesel are far far far more efficient forms of fuel....for your purposes... You can use solar to help maintain if you leave for a few days

Thanks. I think this is honestly the most practical approach for my needs. I picked up a new Renogy Lycan for $1k which has a 1000 watt/hour LifePO4 and can charge via outlet/car/solar. I think the standard alternator in a new F-150 is 200+ amp/hour so hopefully that will help. I'll look at aftermarket options as well. I have a 30 minute work commute and head out on the weekends. I'm also going for the full 300 watt of solar which should help it maintain.