Going to look at a used '08 LR3 in an hour...

[Jwestpro]

Not sure if its got the HD package or not. The spare was still mounted underneath, but I didn't notice if it was a full size or smaller. Even after googling "rear diff locker LR3", I still wouldn't know what or where to look for to determine if it's on this vehicle or not. That would be a very pleasant surprise to discover it is HD.

Michael

Don't worry about the HD unless you just want to use it as a negotiation point to buy lower. ARB makes their air locker now for both front and rear on lr3, front only so far on lr4. The part is about $1100 plus air compressor and installation. This is a "logic" issue, meaning that if you actually "need" a locker, you are probably in an area where you also should have available an air supply so it might as well be a built in compressor. Having your own on board air supply, ideally into a holding tank, is one of the top mods in my opinion, other than larger 18" tires and a dual battery to power a fridge.

Anyway, a clean vehicle with good history and the right price in the colors you want is WAY more important than the HD/rear locker. I don't even consider the HD much of a $ value at this point on an HSE because that 5th wheel is not a useful 18" or useful tire. At best I find it worth about $100 for the tire pressure sensor No seriously, I've heard the HD rear axles are beefier but those could be upgraded upon installation of an air locker.

In all the places I've gone through, I've never been stuck needing the rear to lock.

 

[Jwestpro]

Get the VIN number of the LR3 and then call or visit any Land Rover Dealership Service department and ask them to run the build sheet for the VIN number and check to see if it has the HD package. They will gladly do it for you. This is the simplest way to check...the other option is getting under the LR3 and checking the rear differential to see if it has the locking step motor as seen below...Fig A is the locking and you can see the small motor (#4) sitting on top of the diff:

That's an awesome post with the photos! Good for you. So many people try to explain what it looks like but nothing works as well as this 3D image you posted.

 

[LR Max]

Yeah, that is a bit steep.

Just start beating them down. Get up and walk away a few times. Also wait until Sunday to make a deal on the vehicle. Go in early, and clear your schedule. Dealerships get hungry toward the end of the month. Keep stepping out to make a phone call. When I was buying my car, I kept calling my dad, getting his advice. Even though it was THE CAR, I acted uninterested and beat on them for 4 hours. Worth it.

Oh one other thing, if they try to sell you any kind of warranty or car care deals, pass. Usually its 3rd party and not worth the trouble.

 

[StreetsofCompton]

Perkj, seriously great diagram of the rear differential and locking motor. WAY better to decipher than a written attempt.

So I had the pre-purchase inspection done today. Unfortunately, not by Luke due to some other prior commitments in the day. Anyways, when they finished we went over the paperwork and what they had discovered. Overall, they found no mechanical issues, but as for the electronic modules they highlighted somethings. The guy basically explained it to me that none of the faults they discovered are "active" but that they had been issues at some point in the past? Im guessing whatever diagnostic tool they use shows them that? None of them seemed to me to be all that vital, except for one.

Engine Control module:
P0441-00 Evaportative emission system incorrect purge flow - ?

Instrument Cluster:
U0132-87 Lost communication with ride level control module This is the one that freaks me out a bit
U0159-87 Lost communication with parking assist control module
U0127-87 Lost communication with tire pressure monitor module

Tire Pressure monitor module:
C1A64-93 Spare wheel tire pressure sensor and transmitter assembly

The only other thing that was noteworthy was that they heard a slight sound coming from the right rear wheel area. Their opinion is that the wheel bearing is going out. Not in a horrible way, just more than likely would need to be replaced soon. Quoted about $200 for the repair.

I took it back to the dealer and explained that I needed some time to mull it over. I placed a $1000 deposit for them to "hold" the vehicle until this evening for a decision. As someone stated above, 16.900 seems a tad steep. Doing a quick CL search just now, I found a new listing as of 6 hours ago, for a 2006 HSE with 83,000 for 16.500. The HSE isn't overly enticing as much as the lower mileage. I'm pretty impartial to colors, especially for a vehicle like this. Ill take the maintenance records and perceived reliability over a color any day of the week, and possibly twice on Sundays. With that said, does all that module/electronic business sound surprising or of concern to anyone? If the computers truly track and archive information like that, I wouldn't find it strange at all for some of those things to exist.

 

[zelatore]

I'm willing to bet 9 of 10 LR3s on the road will show some sort of stored fault code if/when you pull up the computer record. I know mine certainly will. It's (unfortunately) the most common issue with these trucks. On the plus side, it's unlikely that any of those errors are serious or even in need of addressing. The purge flow is interesting - I've only seen that one time when I was having a poor running condition on my truck (actually at Pismo earlier this year) and I kept stalling and wouldn't idle. I tried everything I could in camp but couldn't remedy the poor running. Eventually I just drove it home. By the time I got home it was all good. I can only attribute it to a bad tank of gas I bought just as I got to Pismo. I of course had to refill on my way home and it's been happy since.

 

[perkj]

I personally wouldn't be concerned with any of those "Lost communication xxx" log entries. Communication can get lost to any of the sensors for a number of reasons and the only time would should be worried is if they are currently active and reappear quickly after a fault log clear. From a MY perspective, the 07s-09s have more of the early quirks and problems address by the factory which give the advantage to the 08, however the lower miles is a big plus for the 06. I personally would make my decision on the follow in this priority order:

(1) Have either been in an accident? (each dealer should have a paint thickness meter in their used car dept so ask them to use it....variations in paint thickness means body work was done...also look for broken paint on the body panel bolts and look for even seam gaps on all the panels)
(2) which has most complete service record history?
(3) which starts better from a cold start (after sitting for several hours or overnight)?
(4) which appears to be better taken care of (paint, body panels, engine, wheel well, undercarriage, and interior cleanliness & condition)?
(5) which has the most options you were hoping for?
(6) which has the int/ext color combo you were hoping for?
(7) which will need normal maintenance things done sooner (brakes, tires, battery, etc)?

 

[A.J.M]

I wouldn't worry about old codes.

My 05 when i plugged it in 2013 was showing codes from 2010 and earlier, some were to do with EGR valves, which the previous owner had removed in 2010.
I would take clean records, the proof of decent parts fitted over something else. These cars LOVE good upkeep, try to run them on a shoestring and they will take the huff.

Removing the A bar will leave holes in the bumper, you could maybe try and get it treated or painted, i got mine redone last year.

 

[Jwestpro]

Perkj, seriously great diagram of the rear differential and locking motor. WAY better to decipher than a written attempt.

So I had the pre-purchase inspection done today. Unfortunately, not by Luke due to some other prior commitments in the day. Anyways, when they finished we went over the paperwork and what they had discovered. Overall, they found no mechanical issues, but as for the electronic modules they highlighted somethings. The guy basically explained it to me that none of the faults they discovered are "active" but that they had been issues at some point in the past? Im guessing whatever diagnostic tool they use shows them that? None of them seemed to me to be all that vital, except for one.

Engine Control module:
P0441-00 Evaportative emission system incorrect purge flow - ?

Instrument Cluster:
U0132-87 Lost communication with ride level control module This is the one that freaks me out a bit
U0159-87 Lost communication with parking assist control module
U0127-87 Lost communication with tire pressure monitor module

Tire Pressure monitor module:
C1A64-93 Spare wheel tire pressure sensor and transmitter assembly

The only other thing that was noteworthy was that they heard a slight sound coming from the right rear wheel area. Their opinion is that the wheel bearing is going out. Not in a horrible way, just more than likely would need to be replaced soon. Quoted about $200 for the repair.
.

Wheel bearing part might be $200 for an oem, not factory. This could not include labor on a high quality part.

As long as the systems are currently working, I guess the codes don't matter much now as stored items. It can be as simple though as a wire/plug disconnection that is then plugged back in. I had this happen on a rear tire pressure sensor in the wheel arch.

 

[StreetsofCompton]

Thanks for the list of questions perkj. Have been thinking over a lot of that stuff, since making the decision last night to pass on the '08. They were simply asking to much and unwilling to negotiate. The truck did appear to be in great condition, which is what they kept going back to, but that doesn't justify asking $1000 over the sources I used to gauge true value. They kept saying that they've been getting "tons of interest" in the vehicle so they aren't worried about selling it. Good for them. Ill let someone else overpay.

The search continues. I've been emailing with the '06 HSE owner, hoping to see and test drive this weekend. You guys kick ***!

 

[A.J.M]

I would be asking what work the other car has had done.

The front lower control arms are a almost legendary point of needing changed on the 3 and 4 models. Parts to be done properly can be a few $$$ plus the brake fluid change and general condition.

Paying a little more upfront on a car that's had known bits changed, may work out cheaper than buying another car and having to get them done in the future.

Personally, as a car gets older, falls out of warranty and loses values, most no longer see main dealer service places. For a car to continue to be serviced at a main dealer shows they cared for it.

 

[morrisdl]

...The purge flow is interesting - I've only seen that one time when I was having a poor running condition on my truck (actually at Pismo earlier this year) and I kept stalling and wouldn't idle. I tried everything I could in camp but couldn't remedy the poor running. Eventually I just drove it home. By the time I got home it was all good. ...

This exact same thing happened offroading to me twice, six months apart. A little scarry to have the engine acting up out in the wilderness. Cleaning the throttle body at home fixed it. Offroading must shift the fuel trim calibrations enough to cause the idle/stalling issues.

 

[BBslider001]

Thanks for the list of questions perkj. Have been thinking over a lot of that stuff, since making the decision last night to pass on the '08. They were simply asking to much and unwilling to negotiate. The truck did appear to be in great condition, which is what they kept going back to, but that doesn't justify asking $1000 over the sources I used to gauge true value. They kept saying that they've been getting "tons of interest" in the vehicle so they aren't worried about selling it. Good for them. Ill let someone else overpay.

The search continues. I've been emailing with the '06 HSE owner, hoping to see and test drive this weekend. You guys kick ***!

True story about vehicle purchasing. I was looking for an older Suburban in the late 90s era. I found one last year with only 80k miles, 2500, 4x4. Very long story short, they were asking a ridiculous amount of $$....about $3k over book and market value. They told me the same thing you heard (tons of interest, only one like it, it'll sell in just a few days, etc...) I told them straight up that it was way too much money and good luck. They called me a month later asking if I was still willing to pay what I offered. I said NOPE!! LOL I let that guy have it! I laughed and said again...good luck! It took them about 6 months to sell it after that. Moral of the story for dealers...don't be greedy when you have a sale sitting in front of you!! Good for you for walking away.

 

[StreetsofCompton]

True story about vehicle purchasing. I was looking for an older Suburban in the late 90s era. I found one last year with only 80k miles, 2500, 4x4. Very long story short, they were asking a ridiculous amount of $$....about $3k over book and market value. They told me the same thing you heard (tons of interest, only one like it, it'll sell in just a few days, etc...) I told them straight up that it was way too much money and good luck. They called me a month later asking if I was still willing to pay what I offered. I said NOPE!! LOL I let that guy have it! I laughed and said again...good luck! It took them about 6 months to sell it after that. Moral of the story for dealers...don't be greedy when you have a sale sitting in front of you!! Good for you for walking away.

Haha, I know right? Thanks for sharing the story. I keep checking their site and various others that have the vehicle listed. Still available...
Come to find out too, I believe they lied to me about how long theyve had the vehicle. I can't say with 100% certainty, but that's what it seems. I hope they sit on it for a long time...

Going to test drive a '06 HSE with 114000 for 12,800 tomorrow. Seems promising.

 

[rlynch356]

i wish i had kept my 08 SE LR3 - except for brakes was one of the best trucks i've owned.

 

[Jwestpro]

i wish i had kept my 08 SE LR3 - except for brakes was one of the best trucks i've owned.

"except for" in what way do you mean? The brakes are very, very good and also last me a long time.