Grease - ? -- Respond before I drive home from work!

[Brian McVickers]

Grease!

Anyone have any suggestions or recommendations on a good grease to be used for lubrication of U-joints?
I want to grease my U-joints and hit any other zirk fittings I can find on my truck!

I have one of those smaller grease guns. I got it specifically to work in tight spaces but now I can only seem to find grease in the larger 14oz tubes.
There is a wide selection of grease in 14oz tubes but I have only been able to find one in the size I need and I’m not sold on it.
It is just plain old lithium grease but the package says it is good for U-joints.

Any ideas?

 

[BajaTaco]

I use Sta-Lube Moly-Graph. It comes in a 3-pack of 3 oz. tubes. You should be able to find it fairly easy (?)

 

[Brian McVickers]

Nice find Chris!:clapsmile

Where do you usually buy it?

I don't remember seeing it at Checker or AutoZone

Thanks

Brian

 

[goodtimes]

There is a much better selection of grease in the 14 oz tubes...and much cooler grease guns too.....I say scrap the 3oz stuff and have some fun with a air operated grease gun (for those hard to grease items like Rubicon Express Cartridge joints). They also make good defensive items when someone in the shop likes to give you crap....you can use one of the needle fittings, 125psi, and shoot grease at them from outside of arms reach. I just don't suggest doing this to a wife or girlfriend. They tend to take it personal.:exclaim:

 

[BajaTaco]

******** at GT! Yea, your version sounds more fun.

mcvick, I think I got it at Pep Boys the last time, but I honestly don't remember. I would maybe just call around and see who has it. Try pep-boys, NAPA and CarQuest if you aren't finding it at Checker or AutoZone.

 

[goodtimes]

IIRC, Pep Boys carrys the 3oz tubes...(it's been awhile though...)

 

[cruiser guy]

I like to use a grease that doesn't wash out too easily. I've also learned that a squirt or two is sufficient after blowing out the driveshaft slipjoint seal!

 

[Scenic WonderRunner]

I'm confused between the Moly Grease...and the regular grease that my shop manual says to use.

Why can't we just use one type of grease.....?

Would the Moly work for both types of joints?

 

[cruiser guy]

I think the moly grease is a higher grade so it probably cost more but if it's a higher grade it certainly won't hurt anything.
At least stateside you have a choice! Sometimes I need to look all over the place to find the right grades of oil or grease because here it's only the cheapest that's regularly available.

 

[flyingwil]

******** at GT! Yea, your version sounds more fun.

mcvick, I think I got it at Pep Boys the last time, but I honestly don't remember. I would maybe just call around and see who has it. Try pep-boys, NAPA and CarQuest if you aren't finding it at Checker or AutoZone.

You guys have a pep boys in PRC now?

 

[BajaTaco]

Why can't we just use one type of grease.....?

That's what I decided to do for my particular truck even though two types were spec'd. But keep in mind that the driveshafts are the only thing that is greasable on my truck. The wheel bearings and everything else is sealed, and I don't have greasable shackles. The moly is a little higher grade and has worked well for my u-joints and slip yoke. I have 130K miles on the original u-joints and they are still going strong.

You guys have a pep boys in PRC now?

Nope. I think I got it in TUS on one of my trips.

 

[Brian McVickers]

So when working with grease in the past I have always just pumped it in untill all of the old grease seaps out from the seams and stop pumping when the new clean grease begins to seap out.

Is this correct or am I doing it wrong??????

 

[cruiser guy]

I used to do that too. Then one time I was greasing the slip joint in the driveshaft and I was not getting any grease into it apparently (nothing was oozing out the slip joint). On closer inspection I found that the seal inside the yoke was missing and all the grease was coming out there and not even entering the slip joint. When I had the seal replaced at the driveline shop he told me that it was common with folks who put in grease till it comes out to have the seal pop out! You end up hydrolocking the slipjoint and the weight of the truck pops the seal out when you go over a bump.

Now it's a squirt or two. If water comes out I do an extra squirt or to to ensure all the water is out.

It's probably only "dangerous" on the drive shaft slip joints and if you have an enclosed knuckle on the front axle like a Land Cruiser or solid axle Toyota mini truck, as a squirt or two on the "U" joints, tie rod ends or shackles and spring pins is enough to have grease oozing out and there is no "seal" to pop or hydrolocking to happen either.

The Toyota enclosed knuckle is only supposed to be 75% full more or less.

 

[goodtimes]

Typically you would only add grease until you see the dust seals start to bulge (tie rod ends, ball joints, etc). If you have aftermarket seals which are not clamped on each end (such as a Currie Ent. steering system), you can grease them until the cows come home, but you are simply wasting grease after all the water/nasty stuff comes out. Generally speaking, two shots with a typical grease gun is all that is needed on any joint which has been previously greased (new joints often need more, you should follow the manufacturers recommendation in this case). U-joints can be a different story. There is some debate as to wether or not a U-joint that has heated up will contract enough when submerged in water to suck water into the joint. Over-greasing in this case may be a good thing. But since I don't play in water, I don't have to worry about it.

 

[BajaTaco]

On my u-joints, I only pump until I get a little bit of ooze "crackling" out of the joints. I don't go much beyond that. And for the slip-yoke, as has been mentioned, a few good solid pumps of the grease gun and I'm done (maybe 4-5).