Harbor freight camping/kayak trailer

John E Davies

Adventurer
I didn't really mean what you meant by the 2x2. Where will those bolt to?

You need flat (horizontal) mounting pads to rest the bars on and to attach the u bolts through. You don't need to make them out of channel - it just makes it simpler to use the same material as the uprights. You could use angle just as easily.

Use your judgement on the channel sizing - you get the rigidity from the U shape, not so much from the width of the "ears". I wouldn't go any narrower than 2 inches in the main dimension, since you need the room to drill holes for the u-bolts.

You will need a hacksaw anyway to cut the pieces to length - you can easily trim any excess material off the ears to allow the upright to drop down into its slot. It would even be better to use the wider size and trim to fit, since that will make a stronger attachment. The downward load will be carried straight from the upright to the frame and not through the bolts. Does that make sense?

As far as using the square tubing - it will be a little stronger, but also heavier and more expensive per foot. Aluminum is usually priced by weight. It will also require longer bolts to go through both sides, and you run the risk of squashing it if you torque down the hardware too much. My trailer is made with 2x2 square tubing and I like it a lot, but channel would have worked just as well. If you don't want to install round cross bars, the square tubing would work well as a replacement, and you could just bolt it straight to the pads without u-bolts. But then you can't easily mount factory boxes and racks......

IMHO, if you are going to go to the trouble of building a rack system, it should be able to accept standard Yakima or Thule mounting parts, depending on your preference. I am a big Yakima fan.

It's a lot harder to explain in words than through a picture......

Good luck.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA
 
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Mowgli

Supporting Sponsor
Little update. This trailer is going to be put up for sale and I will build a second one. It's fun to build. Added a table to the driver side and a water storage for the right side. Also cut the top off this since it can't hold anything.
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John E Davies

Adventurer
Those are certainly some interesting design ideas ....

What is the capacity of that tank?

I suspect that you should do a 20 mile test drive on some pot-holed forest roads with a 400 pound load of camping gear and full water tank, before you decide that that the trailer is 100% ready for market..... Remember to retorque all those frame bolts.

Good luck on your endeavors.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA
 
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Mowgli

Supporting Sponsor
Funny that you say that. I actually just finished putting all of my camping gear in there along with fire wood and a propane tank to drive it to work tomorrow (35 miles) the water tank is filled up also and only weighs about 22lbs with the water in it. Holds about 2 gallons. Ill check tomorrow to get the exact amount. What do you think is wrong with it? I'm always open to hearing other people's options that have been in the trailer game longer than I have. And also this is not carrying anything on top
 

Mowgli

Supporting Sponsor
Another update. Removed the 1x3 that went across and put a 2x4 on the sides and then mounted a Yakima rack on top.
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p nut

butter
Just curious how this trailer has held up. Was looking to buy one for lighter duty loads (housework, bikes, etc).
 

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