Hard wiring a fridge
- Thread starter Topo.Ranger
- Start date
1Louder
Explorer
Agreed!
pugslyyy
Expedition Vehicle Engineer Guy
I notice that every 3-6 months we get a thread started by someone with a "broken" ARB or Engel fridge. I can't remember a time when it didn't just come down to wiring.
theksmith
Explorer
by exposing only the exact length of wire needed, and having the rigidity of the 2 cables combined with the split loom means it never seems to get bound up in any way...
I ran both the 12v and 120v cords in some split loom down beside it, then into the factory plastic side panel.
The both pop-out at the top of the panel. The 120v cord is there so I can easily plug in an extension cord to pre-cool the fridge when loading it at home. I cut the end of the DC cord off and replaced the cigarette lighter style plug with Anderson PowerPole 30 Amp connectors. I had already run dedicated large gauge power wire back to that corner.
...full writeup here: https://offroadpassport.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4761
The problem I see with the ARB wiring kit is it relies on 14 gauge wire for a very long run back to the battery. I've measured the voltage drop when running and it's significant.
I think it's much better practice to have an inside fuse panel fed by 8 gauge wire from the battery, then the shortest possible run to the fridge hard wired to the panel. I've even cut off about 1/2 of my stock fridge wiring to give the fridge the best possible power supply. It's technically "piggybacked" at the panel, but overall has much better wiring.
I do agree that the stock plug is unreliable and hard wiring the fridge to the panel is trouble free.
dstock
Explorer
The ARB kit I have is 8 gauge with the new style plug. It's very reliable and and threads into the outlet so it can't come loose. Not sure what ARB kit you are talking about...I have this one:
http://www.quadratec.com/products/96010_1011.htm
Even in their picture, that does not look like 8 gauge wire. Maybe they are counting both together as close to the diameter of 8gauge, or the product has changed between when that pic was taken and you got yours. Back in the day, they sold a similar "kit" that was 14 gauge back to the battery. They made a wise choice in deep sixing that. Anyway, cheaper and better to home brew your own, then you know the quality of the materials used. THe EP revew suggests it is 10 gauge and if so, that's likely adequate, but they still did not like the connectors:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/111314-ARB-fridge-wiring-harness-review
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/111314-ARB-fridge-wiring-harness-review
dstock
Explorer
I will compare the wiring with some 10 gauge I have laying around, but no way it's 14 and I have had zero issues with the kit or it's connectors.
Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
Maybe use something like this to guide the wiring as the fridge travels along the slide:
http://www.cableorganizer.com/igus/echain-series-e08-chain.html
-chris
http://www.cableorganizer.com/igus/echain-series-e08-chain.html
-chris
rayra
Expedition Leader
Look at the wiring tracks used in computer printers and things like 3D motion router tables. The idea is to anchor the wiring down the center of the drawer / slide, with the penetration or plug being near the front of the base of the fridge. Such that when the fridge is slid back into stored position, the wiring run is up the middle under the tray, and when it is slid forward / deployed, the slack in the cable rises up directly behind the fridge. And arranged in such a way that the slack cannot get into the tray mechanisms and be pinched.
The idea is creatign a cable tray / run that traps the wire. Or using something like a 'cable carrier' or that functions like one at much less cost.
https://buildyourcnc.com/CableCarriers.aspx
A spring or bungee works, it's just ghetto as hell. You're already spending ridiculous money for cold groceries, spend the extra for a proper install.
The idea is creatign a cable tray / run that traps the wire. Or using something like a 'cable carrier' or that functions like one at much less cost.
https://buildyourcnc.com/CableCarriers.aspx
A spring or bungee works, it's just ghetto as hell. You're already spending ridiculous money for cold groceries, spend the extra for a proper install.
matches130
Organizer
Check this out!
This will help answer any questions about wire size.
http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
This will help answer any questions about wire size.
http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
1Louder
Explorer
You don't have to. I do just in case. The power supply senses either and when 120 comes on it knows to switch to that.
moabian
Active member
I've hard-wired fridges in every one of my trucks and Jeeps for about 15 years. I've always run 8 gauge wire from the battery and put a switch on the dash so I could easily turn the fridge on and off. In the newest truck, I went with a 20-amp remote-controlled switch ( http://www.fimcoindustries.com/images/catalog/12/New_Products.pdf ) so I didn't have to run any wiring into the truck's cab. I bought the switch from Amazon. It controls a socket in the bed of the truck and has worked perfectly for almost a year now. It runs the 63-qt ARB.
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