Hardside DIY Toppers

[Jaywood]

I've been on the fence about a DIY build for a few years now. Whether it be a 4wheel camper slide in style, or ovrlnd camper topper style. However, most of my camping trips are in the desert where it is pretty windy. The more I think about it, the less I want a popup.

The AT Aterra topper just came to my attention not too long ago and I'm starting to lean towards a hardside topper (with no popup) similar to the Aterra topper.

I haven't seen too many, if any, overcab hardside topper builds. I think it'll suit all my needs.
-Big door for a motorcycle
-Will fit in the garage on a sled once taken off truck
-Within payload of 1500lb
-No popup
-Relatively easy and noncomplex build

Looking for opinions on:
-Barn doors vs one big gas strut door (like aterra)
-Tapered roof along E and W side of camper. I will likely do a taper down on the N side on the overcab. 90* wall will give more headroom and cabinet space.

Thoughts? Anyone have any good build threads to direct me to?

Pictures for inspiration

 

[tirod3]

Since it overlaps the fenders a tapered roof doesn't cut into headroom, it slopes down to the shoulder, and bending over our head gets lower and doesnt strike that much. It also reduces the amount of cubic feet of air to heat or cool, plus cuts down the exposed vertical area to cross winds, while creating less drag doing it. The same thinking goes into the sloped in top of the truck cab doors, which is what makes a squared topper stick out creating drag.

One big drop gate would also be a ramp, it would take good workmanship to be stiff, strong, and light. Racking or warping of the door or slide in would be an issue closing it, and require cross framing and/or K framing to keep things square.

Utility trailers with integrated side walls are much the same layout, I've been giving a lot of thought to 2 1/2" steel studs with foam as a core of a build Steel studs run more than 40% lighter, are stronger, wont rot, and are commonly available.

 

[Jaywood]

Since it overlaps the fenders a tapered roof doesn't cut into headroom, it slopes down to the shoulder, and bending over our head gets lower and doesnt strike that much. It also reduces the amount of cubic feet of air to heat or cool, plus cuts down the exposed vertical area to cross winds, while creating less drag doing it. The same thinking goes into the sloped in top of the truck cab doors, which is what makes a squared topper stick out creating drag.

One big drop gate would also be a ramp, it would take good workmanship to be stiff, strong, and light. Racking or warping of the door or slide in would be an issue closing it, and require cross framing and/or K framing to keep things square.

Utility trailers with integrated side walls are much the same layout, I've been giving a lot of thought to 2 1/2" steel studs with foam as a core of a build Steel studs run more than 40% lighter, are stronger, wont rot, and are commonly available.

Good point on the fender overlap. It certainly looks better tapered all around.

The drop gate is a cool idea, but sounds a bit too complicated to build. Plus, I have a folding motorcycle ramp that weighs about 5lbs and can easily toss in the back.
I am considering doing barn doors.

I will likely be framing this all out of aluminum, 1/8" wall 2x1 rectangle welded with a spool gun. Leaning towards VHB tape and ACM panel.

 

[rruff]

I will likely be framing this all out of aluminum, 1/8" wall 2x1 rectangle welded with a spool gun. Leaning towards VHB tape and ACM panel.

ACM is usually very thin skin with plastic core. Poor insulation and not very strong or stiff for a sparse frame.

Have you considered PP honeycomb and fiberglass skins? This is what the Aterra uses. https://www.carbon-core.com/product/plastic-honeycomb-sheets/

Many angles are good! I'd taper the berth on the sides as well. And I like one big hatch... mine goes all the way to the floor; makes a good awning.

 

[Jaywood]

ACM is usually very thin skin with plastic core. Poor insulation and not very strong or stiff for a sparse frame.

Have you considered PP honeycomb and fiberglass skins? This is what the Aterra uses. https://www.carbon-core.com/product/plastic-honeycomb-sheets/

Many angles are good! I'd taper the berth on the sides as well. And I like one big hatch... mine goes all the way to the floor; makes a good awning.

Do you have pics of yours? I tried looking for your build thread but didn't see anything.

I use ACM quite a bit at work, we have a sign printing shop. So yes, I am well aware of the thin aluminum skin and hesitant on it for that very reason. I was only going that route because my cost is cheap, and we have paneling in stock. I was going to toss in some 1" rigid insulation between the framing members.

 

[rruff]

Mine isn't a topper. I removed the bed and it mounts to the truck frame. It's all fiberglass and carbon layup and PVC foam core. I got the foam from Carbon Core.

Aluminum framing is going to create a pretty pronounced thermal bridge, but maybe you don't care about that? And if you toss in rigid insulation, you'll also need an interior wall? I would recommend not pinching pennies if there is an easier or better way to do it. Structural sandwich panels don't need framing, and if they have a foam core, they insulate quite well. They can be bought, or you can DIY.

If the insulation of the Aterra is adequate for you, I think using the same type of panel would be a good way to go... cheap, light, not too difficult, good structure.

 

[Jaywood]

Mine isn't a topper. I removed the bed and it mounts to the truck frame. It's all fiberglass and carbon layup and PVC foam core. I got the foam from Carbon Core.

Aluminum framing is going to create a pretty pronounced thermal bridge, but maybe you don't care about that? And if you toss in rigid insulation, you'll also need an interior wall? I would recommend not pinching pennies if there is an easier or better way to do it. Structural sandwich panels don't need framing, and if they have a foam core, they insulate quite well. They can be bought, or you can DIY.

If the insulation of the Aterra is adequate for you, I think using the same type of panel would be a good way to go... cheap, light, not too difficult, good structure.

I will look a bit more into the foam core structural panels. I appreciate the feedback.

I would be doing interior walls if I end up insulating. I am not super worried about thermal bridging, as most of my camping is done in the California desert during the mild temp seasons. I may venture into Mammoth for some spring skiing, but this isn't going to be a 4 season camper. I'll toss a diesel heater in there for the spring ski trips.

The reason I am leaning towards aluminum framing members and ACM paneling, is because that is what I'm familiar with and work with on a daily basis. It's not about penny pinching, it's more about my ability and comfortability with tools and skills that I already have.