A couple of suggestions:
If you are only getting two lights:
Option A - "Corner Beam" Vehicle Left, "Euro-Beam" Driving Light. Vehicle Right. - This is a popular down under and gives you best of both worlds. Wire with a relay to activate with your brights. I would wire independently so you can have one or the other or both come on.
Option B - dual "Euro-Beam" Driving Lights. - both wired to activate with High Beams ( I usually but double throw, center off switch ( ON, OFF, ON with brights)
I find that most users do not have the need for the Pencil Beam lights. They do not drive fast enough off road to need the long distance range of the lights. The range is some 5,000 feet, and the majority of the time off road I am focused on the next 20' of trail, not 5000'. And the driving light will take care of most graded forest service road traveling 40-60 mph.
If you are putting multiple sets - then I would start with:
1) Dedicated "Fog" lights to use on road in inclement weather - wired to run with parking lights or low beams, off with brights - mounted low to the ground and as wide a possible.
2) Cornering Beam - All purpose flood light for trail use - wired to run with high beams ( This is the work horse of auxiliary lights, great for rock crawling, looking for & setting up campsites) bumper height, and wide.
3) Driving Lights - All purpose long range light - wired to run with high beams (Great to keep from hitting deer on the road, Not technically legal for use on the road, but well worth in the underpopulated areas.
4) Pencil Beams - Super long range lights, for high speed runs when you are over-driving your driving lights, tight focused beam that reaches super far. Again, most people would not need this light (Baja, and racers would use them.) Mount as high on the vehicle as practical to get the additional distance they can throw.
I think you would be happy with a combination of the cornering beams & euro beam driving lights.