Hello Everyone Newb starting out.

[Flyn G]

Howdy Y'all,

I just found a box stock 2006 Jeep Unlimited softtop with only 21K on it. It comes stock with D44 rear, 3.73 and a limited slip. So now begins the journey back to the outdoors. I'm not planning month long excursions to Baja just weekend runs around AR with maybe some vacation trips to CO.

It will be more of an packmule for mt. bikes, fishing rods, and shot guns with campouts while we are there. My long term vision is bumpers, rocker guards with steps, a roof rack for a canoe and possibly a small RTT for the boys towing an off road tear drop or perhaps something like a Sherpa II.

First dilemma, tires. The stock GSA are totally worthless. It has the stock Ravine 8 x 15 wheels that I think should work for either the 31 x 10.5 TRXus MT or the 33 x 10.5 BFG MT KM2. It is my understanding from a lot of searching and reading that the TRXus really will be 31" or slightly taller when mounted and the BFG will more likely be about 32". The tire will most likely indicate how high it must go to clear. But I don't want any more lift than necessay.

I'm looking for all the help, guidance, advice, etc that is available here.

First picnic outing this afternoon. I'll try to get a picture somewhere along the way.

Flyn G

Pix of the first LJ turkey scouting outing.


One the way out.


I hit a mud hole a bit hard and managed to detach the mirror from the window. oops. #1 son had the idea to tie it up with his empty pixie stix straw.


A bit dirtier on the way home.

 

[Scotsmanspride]

I am going through the same procedure that you are at this very moment. I am trying to clear 33x1050 BFG's due to a long history and great success with this tire. I have plenty of cashflow to do just about any suspension build i want to however!!! I have, as of late due to having a 13 month old come to realize that i don't always have to do the craziest suspension of them all to have it work. I have since decided to avoid going with the OME lift and do a 2" budget boost from RE for $233. This will avoid problems with the rear driveshaft with my dana 44. Originally i would have gained 2.5" from the OME however with the transfer case drop would have only been 1.5" center clearance gain. I will also run a 1" body lift which will allow for a high clearance gas tank skid. This setup is being run by guys on 35's. It all depends on bumpstops and building for droop rather than up travel. All said i will be done with the lift for $375 with all the parts to do it right the first time. I am not doing a MML due to switching to an electric fan. Running the stock wheels you will lose just a slight amount of turn radius but you can use washers to space out your steering stops to keep things from rubbing. Hope this helps.

 

[Flyn G]

I am going through the same procedure that you are at this very moment. I am trying to clear 33x1050 BFG's due to a long history and great success with this tire. I have plenty of cashflow to do just about any suspension build i want to however!!! I have, as of late due to having a 13 month old come to realize that i don't always have to do the craziest suspension of them all to have it work. I have since decided to avoid going with the OME lift and do a 2" budget boost from RE for $233. This will avoid problems with the rear driveshaft with my dana 44. Originally i would have gained 2.5" from the OME however with the transfer case drop would have only been 1.5" center clearance gain. I will also run a 1" body lift which will allow for a high clearance gas tank skid. This setup is being run by guys on 35's. It all depends on bumpstops and building for droop rather than up travel. All said i will be done with the lift for $375 with all the parts to do it right the first time. I am not doing a MML due to switching to an electric fan. Running the stock wheels you will lose just a slight amount of turn radius but you can use washers to space out your steering stops to keep things from rubbing. Hope this helps.

Yes it does help.

thanks
Flyn G

 

[dirtyboots]

.02

Take your time. That would be my no. 1- Like the previous post most builds these days can be done on the cheap with the same performance or in some cases better than expensive kits. You should be able to build something with 32's or smaller with coil spacers, maybe a body lift. If you went with 31's, bought a swaybar disconnect for the front like JKS, you'd be surprised were you can go and you wouldn't be in much money. No.2 advice, no matter what it looks like on the surface, every mod will almost inevitibly require two more mods.

I recommend the following vendors, over the years I have had good luck with them, they are good web sites to study to get an idea or prices and what is available from mild to wild. Good luck hope that helps-

Currie, JKS, Poly Performance, 4x4groupbuy

 

[comrad_zeelaagee]

nice find on the jeep. soumds like youhave some great adventure planned ahead. also- good luck on your spring turkey season. should be a good one with all the rain this year.. at least here out west.

i had my mirror fall off last summer in the heat. if i may offer a few tips:
- clean the area extremely well with a razor blade and solvent. using first some parts cleaner and then windex proved successful.
- apply a small amount of 15min epoxy to the back of the mount and secure to the windshield (with mirror removed) with masking tape.
- let sit until well cured, overnight is a good amout of time.
- clean any slag epoxy from the periphery of the mount with a razor blade.
- attach mirror again.

have fun with 'er.

Andy

 

[Flyn G]

Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it.

Flyn G

 

[wardrow]

Find some good mt's and do a tummy tuck and leave it alone!:smiley_drive:

 

[Flyn G]

Tummy Tuck...Still in the info gathering phase but to get a good result isn't a body lift involved?

 

[Scotsmanspride]

Yes or no. Depends on how much you are willing to beat in the bottom of your jeep. A 1 inch body lift is really not that big of a deal, about 2 hours at a leisurely pace with a few beers. I have seen the tummy tucks work without however you basically have to clearance around the transfer case. Also be advised....you have a dana 44 from the factory. The guys with a manual and dana 44 have a much higher risk of driveline vibes off of that combo. So get ready for a SYE and CV driveshaft if you do a tummy tuck. Some of the kits are saying it is required. The other thing i can recommend is lockers. Wether you go the budget route with lock-rites or ARB,Detroit,OX. Even if you do one axle only i would recommend at least doing the rear. It is a night and day difference for the $290 on a lock-rite and 2 hours of time. The other thing i can recommend and cannot stress enough is education. Learning how to drive, throttle control, and learning which lines to take.

 

[dirtyboots]

tummy tuck

I have the AEV and do not have a body lift. You have to take a jack and press a piece of tube into the body that is included so that your case doesn't hit the body under torque. The body is double walled in that area so it doesn't show through into the tub, which is under carpet anyway.

AEV stuff is top notch. Forgot to mention them earlier. Good suggestion for a mod.

 

[Flyn G]

Good info guys thanks!

I hope to get the tires on in the next couple of weeks...so we will see.

A locker for the front end ison the back burner.

But after tires I plan to fix any driveline issues and then work on bumpers.

Flyn G

 

[Mexican_Hippie]

Simple...cheap...reliable....

I waited for deals, and this is what I paid (from memory):

1" Body Lift (BL)..............................$ 75
2" Budget Boost (BB)........................$150
1" Motor Mount Lift (MML).................$100
OME rear trackbar relocation bracket...$ 20
--(re-centers the rear axle after BB)

This is the suspension I've run with 33 x 10.5 for about 3 years now. Doesn't mess with the stock suspension too much, and I can get to most places without even having lockers (but would still love some).

You can get some quick disconnects from JKS for $$, make your own for cheap, or just spend <5 min. each time to unbolt yours when you go off road for free. I made my own for <$10 similar to these http://www.4x4xplor.com/homediscos.html.

Drive it for a little bit with some basics and you'd be surprised that very few mods are necessary to get to 99% of the places you want to go.

 

[Mexican_Hippie]

Roof Rack

Do some research on the roof racks before you buy too.

I went with Congo Cage, and it can hold a ton of stuff. I can also take it off by myself in about 5 min when not in use......it does get loud for everyday commutes.

 

[Flyn G]

Simple...cheap...reliable....

I waited for deals, and this is what I paid (from memory):

1" Body Lift (BL)..............................$ 75
2" Budget Boost (BB)........................$150
1" Motor Mount Lift (MML).................$100
OME rear trackbar relocation bracket...$ 20
--(re-centers the rear axle after BB)

This is the suspension I've run with 33 x 10.5 for about 3 years now. Doesn't mess with the stock suspension too much, and I can get to most places without even having lockers (but would still love some).

You can get some quick disconnects from JKS for $$, make your own for cheap, or just spend <5 min. each time to unbolt yours when you go off road for free. I made my own for <$10 similar to these http://www.4x4xplor.com/homediscos.html.

Drive it for a little bit with some basics and you'd be surprised that very few mods are necessary to get to 99% of the places you want to go.

Those are numbers I can sure live with.

Did the BB come with shocks or not?

I'm not into rock crawling or mudding so I think the less I do will probably be better for me in the end.

Flyn G

 

[Lumberjack]

Just for reference, here was my LJ one 2 1/2" OME, TT, 1" Body lift & MM, and 33x10.50 BFG's...


Album Here:
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll296/LumberjackJeep/2005%20Jeep%20Unlimited/

The tummy tuck did need to be dropped by 3/4" to eliminate vibes since no SLE but still gained at least 3" in the middle.

Dennis