Hell's Canyon - Hat Point, Lord Flat & Dug Bar

jeverich

Luddite
Following is an attempt at chronicling my recent trip to the Hell's Canyon National Wilderness area; well – it's an attempt, at least...

It's funny, the amount of superfluous things that those who enjoy overland travel seem to acquire.. Case in point my “High Clearance” rear bumper. I mention this, because the every single one of the three days leading up to getting the truck ready to depart for my trip to Hell's Canyon was filled with bruised knuckles, dirty hands and minor (well, major) frustration. As I know some of you can understand, it's incredibly easy to fantasize about trips to the umpteenth degree. Rebuilt leaf springs, fabricated a u-bolt flip kit and mounted my rear bumper; none of which would have been even remotely possible without the help of Louis (LouisD75)..

Thank you.

Anyways - I digress..

I've been wanting to see the Hell's Canyon area of Eastern Oregon for quite some time. Well, ever since a member on Expedtion Portal planted the figurative seed within my head. I may be paraphrasing somewhat, although – I believe the statement was something along the lines of, “Be sure to put Hell's Canyon on your bucket list.”. I did just that. After a half hearted, yet ill fated attempt to make the trip in the Spring – which, would not have had any positive results whatsoever.

The planets aligned, and (more than) adequate time had been devoted to the finer details – such as itinerary, route, etc... the truck was loaded, food was bought and ice was put in the cooler. Which on that thought process – I may add, the Coleman Xtreme's are excellent pieces of gear for the money... still had ice this morning, after enduring 4 days of 90 degree plus heat. Impressive.

One of the most enjoyable aspects of undertaking trips like this is planning. From the infantile stage of a random destination cursorily jotted down on an old notebook, to that looming feeling on the last day that the trip is about to conclude. What I really like is that you are responsible for making it happen. Yet, this self-sufficiency can be self deprecating if something is to go wrong. Luckily, nothing did. Overlanding, backcountry travel, truck camping – call it what you may – there is something utterly primal about it. That drive to get out and explore, to venture away from the comforts of home, to be alone. Perhaps I am being somewhat overly poetic about it? Although I feel as one cannot help but to be filled with such profound emotions upon seeing this kind of country. Which, brings me to another thought – one that is easily underestimated. The remoteness of this type of travel. That feeling of being alone in such a large area – being responsible for your own destination, destiny and experience. It's powerful.

Made a quick food run at Safeway; which, if you've never shopped with an 11 year old boy, I highly suggest that you experience it at least once in your life. Arizona Iced Tea, potato chips, Top Ramen and donuts are clearly at the upper echelon of the food group. The staples – bacon, sausage, steaks, burgers and beer. Essential “man food”. Even had him convinced that the “man card” was something that you had to earn, and that it wasn't given out until age sixteen...

Depated Seattle at 0430 Saturday morning, the majority of the drive was fairly uneventful. Excellent weather, beautiful scenery... It was quite nice to go over Snoqualmie Pass in relatively un-inclement weather, the view is quite spectacular. Small side trip up to see those quixotic wind turbines that were looming on the horizon for an hour or so – “Hatch Grade Road”, Walla Walla. Wow, they're big. Especially when there's a row of 75 of them all moving in unison with the shifting wind. Staring to get warm at this point; probably hovering in the lower 90s, with a light wind. Amazing the variation in terrain and elevation throughout the Interstate 90 corridor. There's something beautiful to the subtle sweeping of the plains, especially when contrasted against a picturesque blue sky.

Arrived Tollgate National Forest, Jubilee Lake Camp Ground at 16:30, found a perfect spot off of FS64. Setup camp, cooked dinner – began to develop a routine. Needless to say, I have a new found respect for my parent's ability to resist strangling me throughout the many camping trips of my youth. It can be challenging. Interestingly, it's so easy to see the quintessential younger version of myself in my nephew – maybe it's easier with family members. Or, perhaps those traits are universal to pre-pubescent boys. Bratwursts for dinner – quintessential bachelor fare..

Started the day (Sunday) with the intention of rendezvouing with Scott (K7BZR), although a total mismanagement of time on my behalf put the kibosh on that plan. Ended up leaving camp around 10:30 – got on the road to Enterprise. Beautiful weather – sun, and blue sky... which would become a pattern throughout the trip. Drove passed a rollover that must have just occurred within five minutes or so. Something that an eleven year old did not really need to see. Slowed down out of obligation whilst passing the overturned 4Runner; luckily there were no visible injuries. First responder vehicles were streaming by in the opposite lane, which highlighted another aspect of this region: emergency aid is far and few between.

Reached Hat Point Road @ 14:00.. Situated comfortably in the seat of a pretty capable off road vehicle, staring bleary-eyed through the windshield towards a minivan steadily descending the winding mountain. Really? A minivan? Overall, the Hat Point road is relatively unremarkable. Reminiscent of the Alaska Highway; minus the snow and ice. Take your time, and watch the blind curves. Several incredibly beautiful vista points along the way, all the better to bask in the surrounding landscapes and vistas. Had to detour to investigate the Hat Point Runway, which looks as though it has been dormant for quite some time. Almost strange and eery; the recognizable structures of a generator shed, dining hall and bunk houses – all sheathed in weathered plywood. Yet, there is some distinct novelty in driving directly alongside a mountain top landing strip. Watch for planes... Reached the fire tower, soaked in the landscape even more. Truly breathtaking. At the risk of sounding entirely cliché, there really aren't many words that can even approach accurately describing the tremendous and austere beauty of this area. At risk of losing my “Expo” credentials, we found the Lord Flat road by mistake. Needless to say, it was one of those rare – maybe even singular, “good mistakes”. Setup camp about 6 miles in, on Sleepy Ridge. Steaks, Mountain House Blueberry Crumble (delicious) and an Alaskan Amber (for the adult) – all made for another wonderful night. Attempted some long exposure photography, as well.

Packing up camp was one of those rituals that never really seemed to entirely become a routine for my traveling partner. It's truly amazing at the plethora of excuses and distractions that an eleven year old can find... Yes, I saw myself in him repeatedly. Got on the trail to Lord Flat by 10:00. Great trail. Not overly technical, although, a few sections were a little white knuckle. Perhaps a slightly more apt adjective would be “Pucker Factor”...

Lunch at Lord Flat; surrounded by wild flowers and mountains. Burgers and a beer. Such a lackluster meal for such beautiful surroundings...

Broke the kid in on manual transmission truck operating 101, he did well. Yes, we didn't leave first gear – and yes, it was a completely flat section of trail. But, he loved every minute of it. Not entirely sure who's smile was bigger; his or mine?

Decided to press on to Dug Bar @ 16:30 – we're tough enough, right?

Backtracked back down into the town of Imnaha – unsure of exactly how to find the Dug Bar road. I'll hint at a secret.. It's not hard. Instead of taking a right to go up to Hat Point, take a left. Yes, that easy. It's amazing how that change in inclination can so drastically affect temperature. From 55 degrees around 6400 feet to 100 degrees at river level. Shocking, to say the least.

To be continued...
 

Offtrack

Offtrack Traveler
Jake

Great write up on the trip so far and it was great to meet you both. The photos are great!

Scott
 
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jeverich

Luddite
Both decided that we were tough enough to press on to Dug Bar... Like I said, it's relatively easy to find. I think that Scott and I had a short conversation about how road conditions, like so many other things, tend to be completely subjective. Most of the people that I mentioned the Dug Bar Road too were astounded that I'd attempt to drive the road after 5 PM. “That's a horrible road, and is going to take you at least 6 hours to finish..”. Well, maybe my perspective on road conditions is somewhat biased – but, I felt as though on the whole it's a great road. Yes, blind corners, incredibly steep shear drop offs and ruts abound... but, so what?

Found what looked to be a horse camp approximately 45 minutes and 5 miles in to the road. Decided to call it a day then and there. Excellent camp site – it butted right up right against the Snake River. Fire pit, tamped down grass and dried firewood awaited – almost as though someone had planned it that way. That's something that was continually on my mind throughout the trip, and I feel as though just about everyone who travels this area must ponder – the history of the land. At the risk of sounding incredibly corny, who has stayed at this campsite? Did “cowboys” tie their horses off to that tree just to my right? Another element that I found fascinating about the area is the blunt contrast of landscapes, all within a relative close proximity to each other. Hat Point, with it's forest and lush plant life, Dug Bar – which can really only be aptly described as an alien-esque terra and Joseph – almost like something out of the Wizard of Oz. Forgive me if some of those analogies are exaggerating... Overall an uneventful night, aside from the coyotes howling on some near by ridge.

Following a quick breakfast of eggs, sausage and instant oatmeal and no coffee, (I made the mistake of packing a GLASS French Press, which promptly shattered)... We pressed further on into the canyons, along the Dug Bar Road. Ascending further into that alien landscape, the temperature began to rise and thoughts of “what if we got stuck out here” began to emanate from within. Reaching a high point on a ridge, I gave Scott a try on the 147.470 remote repeater – it worked! Both myself and my travel companion were readily becoming more eager to begin working our way towards Imnaha – so we did just that.

Around 13:00, met up with Scott (KB7DZR), and took a guided tour through his family's ranch land. Which, I find I still fail to appropriately describe the austere beauty of the sweeping plains and stark cliffs. Traveling a road that few others have even seen is quite an impressive feeling. Thanks for that!

Returned to Joseph for a quick lunch, then farther South still for a quick swim in Wallowa Lake.
Which, yes – is worth seeing. Made sure the tires were adequately filled with air, cleaned the ever-present Eastern - Oregon dust off the windows, and attempted to quell that pang of emotion that the trip was finally reaching it's conclusion. Returning back to the urban sprawl was now clearly imminent...

Reached Seattle around 0130 on the 16th.
 

4x4x4doors

Explorer
Excellent trip!
Begin to Pass on to future generation the art of rowing your own gears: Check
Great scenery: Check
Making the most of an unplanned turn: Check
Surviving sans coffee: Ewwwwwww
Writing it down and sharing: Check
Taking pictures and sharing: Check

On balance? Highly positive.
Thanks!
 

bpb

New member
I'm planning on doing the same trip in August just a quick question, how suited are these trails to a stock fullsized SUV?
 

jeverich

Luddite
It's definitely possible, Dug Bar shouldn't be an issue.

But, some of the steeps and tight corners on Lord Flat are going to be a little challenging. I'd absolutely prepare to get some pin striping.

If you don't mind me asking - what kind of full size?
 

gorillamel

Dirty Blonde
Thanks for sharing. Looks like a great time. I've been meaning to check out this area on the Idaho side and have researched the south part of Hell's thoroughly. I better get my bum in gear and actually do this trip sooner than later (or at least until after summer, haha).
 

jeverich

Luddite
Thanks for sharing. Looks like a great time. I've been meaning to check out this area on the Idaho side and have researched the south part of Hell's thoroughly. I better get my bum in gear and actually do this trip sooner than later (or at least until after summer, haha).

For Sure! If I go back, I think sometime in late August/Early September would be ideal. Any later than that and you can get some pretty inclement weather... Heck, ran into a guy who had sub-freezing temperatures in July at the high elevation last year. Insane.

Not that the heat was really that bad; just think I'd enjoy it more if it was a little cooler.
 

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