Help - Ford E350 Quigley Dual Battery Set up. I know nothing about electric!

Jolly705

Observer
I have a 2013 Quigley V10 with a second battery for the tow package. I read online to add another battery box and leave that set up alone. I purchased two additional battery boxes from ebay and would like to wire one up on each side of the Van frame and run power inside for fans, chargers, and electric blanket (just had a son and need some heat for him).
First off let me say I know NOTHING about electrical work and need one of those "guide" for dummies to do this myself. I have no problem working on motors but electrical work is not my thing. I would however like to give it a go. Soooo what is the easiest plug and play system to wire up two aux. batteries that won't cost a fortune? Here are some pics of the Van and platform bed I built out.
Any help with photos, links, videos, etc would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.





 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
Twenty minutes reading this forum will lead you to a half a dozen useful threads all of which have links all the information you need.

Here is one to start with:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/77503-How-to-make-a-cheap-isolated-dual-battery-setup-for-50
 
Last edited:

Jolly705

Observer
I have read through that thread and still kind of confused, was hoping for something a little more straight forward.
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
Glad I could help. (Ironically, the thread you didn't like is one I reference.) We all learn/see differently. Here is a link to the broader page where you will find a lot of information that underlies those slides: https://diplostrat.org/documents/

Yes, I geek this to death; comes from getting it wrong for years.
 

Jolly705

Observer
Well I am glad someone figured it out! What are your thoughts on a kit like this? Worth it? I plan on adding one battery on each side of the frame. Thanks again.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WTAFR5W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_zffcwb9ABDJSD

Glad I could help. (Ironically, the thread you didn't like is one I reference.) We all learn/see differently. Here is a link to the broader page where you will find a lot of information that underlies those slides: https://diplostrat.org/documents/

Yes, I geek this to death; comes from getting it wrong for years.
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
Don't know it and it is probably fine - you will probably have to add more cable and, of course, fuses.

I tend to recommend this beast and the appropriate cabling, especially in a case like yours where you seem to be planning divorced batteries in the same bank. (Not usually a good idea, BTW.)

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7620/ML-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12V_DC_500A

The Blue Sea ACR is fully automatic and includes a nice dash switch should you ever want to override things.

While I like automatic relays, they really are only worth the cost if you have solar and want to share the charge with your starter battery. (And this I do recommend.)

Whatever you choose, the installation is more important than the specific device.
 

Jolly705

Observer
So you recommend keeping the two batteries together? I can put both boxes on one side of the frame and just run wiring to the inside. Thanks again!

Don't know it and it is probably fine - you will probably have to add more cable and, of course, fuses.

I tend to recommend this beast and the appropriate cabling, especially in a case like yours where you seem to be planning divorced batteries in the same bank. (Not usually a good idea, BTW.)

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7620/ML-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12V_DC_500A

The Blue Sea ACR is fully automatic and includes a nice dash switch should you ever want to override things.

While I like automatic relays, they really are only worth the cost if you have solar and want to share the charge with your starter battery. (And this I do recommend.)

Whatever you choose, the installation is more important than the specific device.
 

DiploStrat

Expedition Leader
Resistance is the enemy of all things electrical, especially at low voltages.

A "12 volt" battery is actually made up of six "2 volt" cells connected in series. (6x2=12) To keep internal resistance low, the cell to cell connections go right through the cell walls. When you put multiple batteries together to make a single bank, you connect them in series or parallel, or both. So two "6 volt" batteries will give you a "12 volt" battery. If you want to increase the amperes available, you connect the batteries in parallel, in which case two "12 volt" batteries give you 12 volts, but more amperes.

It helps battery performance to:

-- Keep the batteries as close to the load as possible. (The assumption is that you may be able to boost the charge voltage to compensate for drop and, in the end, it is a bit less important.)
-- Connect the batteries "diagonally", that is the positive feed comes from one battery and the negative lead is connected to the last battery. Confused? Try this: http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html
-- Keep the wires between the batteries in a bank as short as possible.

So, generally speaking, it is a lot easier if all of the batteries in your camper bank and physically close together. You can split them up, of course, but you risk adding extra resistance into the whole mess.
 

Jolly705

Observer
Copy! Thanks again for all your help.

Resistance is the enemy of all things electrical, especially at low voltages.

A "12 volt" battery is actually made up of six "2 volt" cells connected in series. (6x2=12) To keep internal resistance low, the cell to cell connections go right through the cell walls. When you put multiple batteries together to make a single bank, you connect them in series or parallel, or both. So two "6 volt" batteries will give you a "12 volt" battery. If you want to increase the amperes available, you connect the batteries in parallel, in which case two "12 volt" batteries give you 12 volts, but more amperes.

It helps battery performance to:

-- Keep the batteries as close to the load as possible. (The assumption is that you may be able to boost the charge voltage to compensate for drop and, in the end, it is a bit less important.)
-- Connect the batteries "diagonally", that is the positive feed comes from one battery and the negative lead is connected to the last battery. Confused? Try this: http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html
-- Keep the wires between the batteries in a bank as short as possible.

So, generally speaking, it is a lot easier if all of the batteries in your camper bank and physically close together. You can split them up, of course, but you risk adding extra resistance into the whole mess.
 

Jolly705

Observer
My father and I got most of the work done yesterday, just need to wire the fuse panel and all the small adapters (12v and usb). I installed one battery under the frame and one in the bench (very close together). We are using Interstate AGM 34M batteries which fit in the box perfectly.

Interstate Batteries | Marine Battery | Marine AGM | Watercraft Batteries

Here is a pic of the bed I made inside the van, the battery and fuse panel is under the front of the bench on the right.







Here is the battery in the box before it went up on the Van



The exposed inverter so I can use the plugs for a few small items along with the relay so I can see the light and make sure it is functioning. I added 2 more usb and 2 12v for easy access in the front along with 2 12v in the rear of the bench. Since I have a big fuse box I will prob. add things as I go along.





Here is the wire coming from the electronic tow battery under the frame



the remaining wires going up under the bench using a pre existing hole


that is all for now. I hope to finish up this afternoon.

Thanks Diplostrat for your help!
 

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