HELP: I Bought an Overweight Overlander

[TheNatural]

Why not have a 2nd battery in the camper as far forward as possible? The Duel battery thing today is a bit silly given the number of power sources we have access too that serve multiple purposes and are pretty cheap. Small jump packs and solar can pretty much eliminate your stranded from dead battery concerns.

At the risk of getting a little off topic... I want moar cold cranking amps. I live in a pretty cold part of the world and when I'm off snowmobiling and the truck is parked at the trail head in a remote place in -30C or so, I really want it to start when I am tuckered out and ready to go home. I've had poor results with the battery jump packs stored in the cold, and solar doesn't work when it gets covered in snow. The 27F is just fine if the truck has the block heater plugged in in the driveway or at work.. it's the sitting for a few days while I'm on an adventure that makes it questionable. A little extra capacity to run the fridge when I'm camping in the same spot for a few days in the summer would be nice too, but that actually could be solved with solar.

 

[DaveInDenver]

At the risk of getting a little off topic... I want moar cold cranking amps. I live in a pretty cold part of the world and when I'm off snowmobiling and the truck is parked at the trail head in a remote place in -30C or so, I really want it to start when I am tuckered out and ready to go home. I've had poor results with the battery jump packs stored in the cold, and solar doesn't work when it gets covered in snow. The 27F is just fine if the truck has the block heater plugged in in the driveway or at work.. it's the sitting for a few days while I'm on an adventure that makes it questionable. A little extra capacity to run the fridge when I'm camping in the same spot for a few days in the summer would be nice too, but that actually could be solved with solar.

That's essentially my reasoning. The original 27F weighed 65 lbs and the pair of Odyssey PC1400 I run (one is group 25 and the other 35) is 100 lbs. But for that extra 35 lbs I have 130 A-hr and 1800 CCA when the batteries are paralleled compared to the original True Start (Toyota) battery's 710 CCA and roughly 69 A-hr. Each individual Odyssey PC1400 25/35 is roughly the same electrical performance but physically smaller and lighter.

I actually run them isolated with a Blue Sea ACR-ML in a primary/redundant configuration. I have portable solar (a 100W suitcase) and a 3rd battery I can use in the bed when I know I need extended run time but for day-to-day or overnight use those aren't necessary. Basically I get either 2x more performance or complete redundancy for 50% more weight.

It's not ideal having any weight there so it's a matter of expediency. If I'm going to do extensive work it'll be to move the batteries completely to the middle and lower, probably to mount them inside the right side frame rail in a custom box the mirrors the fuel tank.

 

[shade]

You could blunt such criticism by editing the thread title. Changing "POS" to "Worn Out" would help.

So ... about that. There's an Edit link at the bottom of the opening post, to the right of the Report link. Click that, and the thread title can be modified.

If desired.

 

[TheNatural]

That's essentially my reasoning. The original 27F weighed 65 lbs and the pair of Odyssey PC1400 I run (one is group 25 and the other 35) is 100 lbs. But for that extra 35 lbs I have 130 A-hr and 1800 CCA when the batteries are paralleled compared to the original True Start (Toyota) battery's 710 CCA and roughly 69 A-hr. Each individual Odyssey PC1400 25/35 is roughly the same electrical performance but physically smaller and lighter.

I actually run them isolated with a Blue Sea ACR-ML in a primary/redundant configuration. I have portable solar (a 100W suitcase) and a 3rd battery I can use in the bed when I know I need extended run time but for day-to-day or overnight use those aren't necessary. Basically I get either 2x more performance or complete redundancy for 50% more weight.

It's not ideal having any weight there so it's a matter of expediency. If I'm going to do extensive work it'll be to move the batteries completely to the middle and lower, probably to mount them inside the right side frame rail in a custom box the mirrors the fuel tank.

I've been looking at doing basically that, but with two of the PC1400 group 35s. There's a bracket designed to stuff them in the factory battery location that also has a clean mounting spot for the blue sea set up. Going with a single group 31 would have less CCA and less capacity than the dual set up but less weight, way less work, and way less cost while still being way ahead of stock. I've held back on doing either until I figure out how I want to reinforce the battery tray location.

I'd much rather put the weight somewhere else, but my truck doesn't have the open area near the passenger side firewall that some models have and I'm not totally sold on running all the wiring for the batteries to the bed. It's just a long run for winching, starting, charging, etc, so I'd have to use a very large wire to avoid too much resistance... Which again adds to cost and weight.

I can't wait until new battery tech is available with more capacity, more CCA, and less weight while still being able to handle the heat of living in the engine bay. The new lithium ion batteries are getting closer but don't like the heat much.

 

[DaveInDenver]

There's a bracket designed to stuff them in the factory battery location that also has a clean mounting spot for the blue sea set up.

I'd much rather put the weight somewhere else, but my truck doesn't have the open area near the passenger side firewall that some models have and I'm not totally sold on running all the wiring for the batteries to the bed. It's just a long run for winching, starting, charging, etc, so I'd have to use a very large wire to avoid too much resistance... Which again adds to cost and weight.

Same thoughts and issues (I have a clutch and brake master cylinder, vacuum brake booster, ABS module on the passenger side configuration).

I know the risks from my previous truck but the benefits are worth it. If (or when) the inner fender gets bad enough, well, I have a Super White 2nd gen Taco and body panels are cheap. I'll happily use what I learn as far as stress points to know better when to bore a couple of holes for the support I envision. I'm also considering doing fiberglass outer fenders anyway or at least trimming steel ones for clearance and if I do that I'll want to take my time and probably have them painted professionally anyway.

 

[Lovetheworld]

I once bought a BJ45 (yeah, the long diesel version of an FJ40) with around 230,000 miles on it. It had seen Africa before, with waaay too much weight.
We took it through Asia, and in the end sold it with something like 270,000 miles. Only the "bulletproof" engine needed work, I think because somebody messed up, they should have left it as is.
And obviously the old body had gotten an overhaul.
But the main drivetrain components were still original. Probably some bearings were replaced at some point.

I think the Tacoma is of lesser quality, given other discussion threads that I have read. (we don't get the Tacoma here)
And then to drive it around overweight all the time including 4x4, I guess you can expect less.

Usually the owner of a 4x4 is its worst enemy.
And yes, overlanding is about collecting a lot of gear. it is silly, because you could throw in a tent and a mattress and a jerrycan of water in the back of an unmodified 4x4 truck and get to most places anyway.
Added bonus is that you don't mess up the way it drives from factory.

I think OP was seeing the "loaded" truck as an advantage over an unmodified truck. But it turned out to be literally a loaded truck, and a huge disadvantage.
Take this as a huge lesson!

But once you replaced a couple of the expensive bits, you should probably be able to enjoy it still, without to much issues.

And things like a wheel bearing, yeah that happens.
Our current overlander rig has had its front wheel bearings replaces just now, even though it has a bit less mileage on it. (130K miles)
I could expect more from a Toyota, but I also know that I have drove it hard over lots of washboarding roads.
Unfortunately I had to get the diff overhauled too, because a crossjoint messed up. Another expensive lesson, the crossjoints were old, I should have known better.
I also know that if I don't want to have these kind of costs, I should not own an (old) 4x4.

 

[shade]

 

[Dances with Wolves]

Not to sound rude but this is just funny , bought a rig with enough weight bolted into it to need 3/4 ton drivetrain to survive , wanting to do cross county travel without the knowledge to fix your own rig , thinking a well used rig will not have a massage amount of maintenance required to get it up to near new condition . You roll the dice anytime you buy a used vehicle and you roll a even bigger dice buying a modified vehicle . Maybe sell off the rig and put a down payment on a new vehicle with a warranty through a tent and a cooler in the bed and go explore .

I live in Utah and I cringe at the number of lifted Tacomas that I see that are overloaded. Resi shocks, check. wide 35's, check. shell, check. full bumpers with tire carrier, check. Armored, check. RTT, check. everything but the kitchen sink packed in & on, check. stock drive line, check. They are rolling "when's" not "ifs".

 

[shade]

@Ziro - Thanks for updating the thread title. Do you have an update on the repairs, and how this is affecting your trip? I thought we might try to get the thread back on track.

Where have you been in Texas, and where are you going next? If you have time, I highly suggest spending some time in Big Bend National Park and the adjacent state park.

 

[Ziro]

@Ziro - Thanks for updating the thread title. Do you have an update on the repairs, and how this is affecting your trip? I thought we might try to get the thread back on track.

Where have you been in Texas, and where are you going next? If you have time, I highly suggest spending some time in Big Bend National Park and the adjacent state park.

the transmission arrived today and is currently on its way into the truck. Hoping to be back on the road this evening. We had originally planned to go down to Big Bend (that’s where we were headed before everything went south) but now due to time constraints we’re gonna make our way northwest and into NM to Carlsbad Caverns, White Sands, Organ Mtn and then either up into CO or west into AZ but that’s TBD. I’ve also gotta take it easy for a while while I work this new transmission in so we’ll be avoiding anything rough for a while.

that being said, I’ve got these big heavy bolt-on sliders I’m looking to ditch to shave off a couple hundred lbs (these things are solid with support running the entire frame length). So if anyone in SE NM is interested in them let me know.

 

[billiebob]

The experience with the seller in person was great - jerry cans were fully loaded, he tossed in a 6 pack and had even installed skids I had ordered to his house. I mean I thought I had struck gold. We shook hands and I left and began my adventure.

I think that says it.

You bought a used vehicle. 14 years old at that. No warranty. And you put on a lot of miles. Did you ever get it serviced before starting on your adventure. Used vehicles take way more maintenance than new vehicles under warranty. Colorado, Canada, the Ozarks, Texas......Suck it up buttercup. I don't think anyone took advantage of you. If the truck was defective when you bought it you would not have made Canada.

 

[shade]

the transmission arrived today and is currently on its way into the truck. Hoping to be back on the road this evening. We had originally planned to go down to Big Bend (that’s where we were headed before everything went south) but now due to time constraints we’re gonna make our way northwest and into NM to Carlsbad Caverns, White Sands, Organ Mtn and then either up into CO or west into AZ but that’s TBD. I’ve also gotta take it easy for a while while I work this new transmission in so we’ll be avoiding anything rough for a while.

? - Is the ATF cooler being replaced? Do you have a way to monitor ATF temperature? If you haven't already figured it out, the tachometer and your ears will tell you when the torque converter is locked. I've found that a small drop in speed on the highway will usually allow it to lock back up, and that keeps the temperature down. I'd plan to replace the ATF every 50,000 miles, if not sooner.

Too bad about missing Big Bend; put it on the list for next time. Colorado is quite nice, but you'll find many trails blocked by snow this time of year. I'd pick a route through Arizona. Flagstaff is a nice town, you can stop at the ExPo office in Prescott, and Sedona is pretty, even if it is overrun with very special people. The Phoenix area is huge. I like the college town vibe of Tempe. Mass transit & Google Maps makes getting around cheap & easy, if you want a break from driving.

If you haven't been to Grand Canyon, that's an obvious stop. Lots of free dispersed camping in the area. Even if you don't go down far, I suggest a short dayhike down one of the corridor trails, if you're able. There's Hoover Dam nearby. You could also spoil yourselves a little with a night or two in Vegas, if interested in that kind of experience.

that being said, I’ve got these big heavy bolt-on sliders I’m looking to ditch to shave off a couple hundred lbs (these things are solid with support running the entire frame length). So if anyone in SE NM is interested in them let me know.

If you know the name of the manufacturer, that'd be good information to include in an ad. Are they bolted or welded on? If bolted, start soaking the fasteners down with a penetrating oil now to make removal easier. You may also want to see how difficult it is to reach the front-most nuts inside the boxed frame section; they can be a real pain to access. If welded, and you aren't in a position to remove them yourself, make sure to put that in your ad. As far as that goes, a cheapo Harbor Freight angle grinder, some cutoff wheels, and PPE should be enough for removal. Post an ad in the For Sale section, and the regional section.

 

[billiebob]

I’ve got these big heavy bolt-on sliders I’m looking to ditch to shave off a couple hundred lbs

Yes, best course of action after a full service, start shedding weight and make it legal.

 

[Ziro]

? - Is the ATF cooler being replaced? Do you have a way to monitor ATF temperature? If you haven't already figured it out, the tachometer and your ears will tell you when the torque converter is locked. I've found that a small drop in speed on the highway will usually allow it to lock back up, and that keeps the temperature down. I'd plan to replace the ATF every 50,000 miles, if not sooner.

Too bad about missing Big Bend; put it on the list for next time. Colorado is quite nice, but you'll find many trails blocked by snow this time of year. I'd pick a route through Arizona. Flagstaff is a nice town, you can stop at the ExPo office in Prescott, and Sedona is pretty, even if it is overrun with very special people. The Phoenix area is huge. I like the college town vibe of Tempe. Mass transit & Google Maps makes getting around cheap & easy, if you want a break from driving.

If you haven't been to Grand Canyon, that's an obvious stop. Lots of free dispersed camping in the area. Even if you don't go down far, I suggest a short dayhike down one of the corridor trails, if you're able. There's Hoover Dam nearby. You could also spoil yourselves a little with a night or two in Vegas, if interested in that kind of experience.



If you know the name of the manufacturer, that'd be good information to include in an ad. Are they bolted or welded on? If bolted, start soaking the fasteners down with a penetrating oil now to make removal easier. You may also want to see how difficult it is to reach the front-most nuts inside the boxed frame section; they can be a real pain to access. If welded, and you aren't in a position to remove them yourself, make sure to put that in your ad. As far as that goes, a cheapo Harbor Freight angle grinder, some cutoff wheels, and PPE should be enough for removal. Post an ad in the For Sale section, and the regional section.

The trans cooler was replaced fairly recently with a Tru Cool Cooler and the previous owner added a fan for some additional support. I had previously been running it only when climbing and after driving for a while but now I’m going to run it at all times just to be safe. Currently I don’t have anyway to monitor trans temp though. I’ll have to be much more attentive now though.

Been to GC and Vegas is awful as far as I’m concerned but the surrounding area is beautiful - red rocks, valley of fire, etc.

The sliders are custom built by some Denver area fab shop and they’re bolt on. I checked the rear and middle bolts and they seemed easy enough to get at but I’ll check the front and make sure I don’t need a super deep socket. Bolts look pretty clean but I’m sure some penetrating oil couldn’t hurt. I’ll post an ad.

 

[shade]

Seems like a good time for a classic on auto repair.


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