Help Me On My Trailer Solar Setup

[Semi-Hex]

We had a list of things we needed and wanted, same as almost everyone here (no refer) charging iPads, iPhones lights at night and twice a Propex heater. We calculated the power usage and used one 105ah group 27 battery and a Harbor Freight three panel pack (a whopping 45 watts). Since then, we've upgraded some lights but have never run low on power.
Again, refers really change this tune.

 

[dakota123]

Ok so from what you guys have said... The 250 24 volt is way over kill.

This is specifically what I will be running off this battery:
1) 2 Led flood lights
http://www.amazon.com/TMS-LED-XT-18...qid=1460687706&sr=8-10&keywords=led+light+bar
2) 2 iphones
3) 2 gopros
4) 1 macbook pro
5) 1 Canon DSLR
6) 4 or 5 small led lights spread around the trailer and RTT.


The main purpose of this trailer is to take me from PA to Oregon then up to Canada and then finally down to Southern California where i will be living again. A good amount of this is on the TAT for a 1.5 month camping trip upon graduation.

We are taking our time and exploring some areas so sometime we may stay in a spot for a couple days if we like it. Which is why i want the solar set up.

As of now there is no fridge involved but when I get home and have the time and money would like to get one without having to do much to this setup.

Is their a setup you guys can recommend and maybe send me some links to so i can get it ordered? I leave May 14th so everything is kind of coming down the the wire with this trailer. I wish I had way more time to think about this and research... But it was a last minuet thought.

 

[calicamper]

Yep. I think this design is more due to the commercial application where these units are used by the 100's. Vs being used as cheap small power units on trailers.

Group 27 battery, 80watt panel or two 40s. A simple solar charger/ controller and a fuse box. If you add a fridge chances are all you need to do is upgrade the battery, and if you want get a fancy controller. But chances are after learning the use and needs you'll only feel like added battery capacity is need.

 

[dakota123]

Calicamper How is this looking so far? Besides wire (what gauge wire do you recommend ?) and connectors what else will i need to make this whole thing work? I noticed on some peoples setup they had a big round switch? Are one of these necessary for my purpose? I would also like to run a wire from my alternator back to the battery to charge while i am driving. Do I need anything between the alternator and battery for this?

Battery
http://www.lowes.com/pd_599946-50656-DC27_0__

80Watt panel
https://www.solarblvd.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_269&products_id=2676

Charge Controller
http://www.amazon.com/Esky-Solar-Ad...ll_btm?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=recent

Fuse Block
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...=UTF8&qid=1460694367&sr=8-3&keywords=fuse+box

1000 watt Inverter (do i need this big?)
http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-1000w-...=UTF8&qid=1460694796&sr=8-4&keywords=inverter

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

@dakota123 Given your needs above a 1000W inverter is overkill but more important is type. Many electronic chargers dont like some inverters. I have several Xantrex 400 in use and I have never found a charger it didnt like. As a bonus it displays incoming and outgoing volts and power usage.

 

[ikk]

I currently have a 28ah sealed lead acid, and 10ah Lipo4 battery that takes care of my lighting and charging needs. If you are doing primitive camping by that I mean no TV, or big power consuming AC appliances there is no need for such a big inverter. In fact when I go camping I never use the 400 watt inverter I take. All my stuff is 12 volt even my AAA to C battery charger. I have a 70 watt roll-able uni-solar panel I take that I got cheap years ago off ebay. and it keeps my battery topped off during the day.

You can look at the products you are using and see what the amp hours they consume. I have 4 goal zero light a life lamps that consume 1/4 amp hour each. all four on is one amp and can keep my lights going each night with spare charge to charge other things like action cam, other lamps, Ipad, and so on. I
Here is a simple setup I do own the power pack and love it for it amp and size and weight. don't have the panel though.

https://www.bioennopower.com/products/28-watt-foldable-solar-panel

https://www.bioennopower.com/collections/mobile-power-station/products/120-watt-hour-power-pack

They have had stuff on sale in the past. Last month they had the power pack at 10% or 20% off not sure which.

 

[calicamper]

Yep. I think this design is more due to the commercial application where these units are used by the 100's. Vs being used as cheap small power units on trailers.

Calicamper How is this looking so far? Besides wire (what gauge wire do you recommend ?) and connectors what else will i need to make this whole thing work? I noticed on some peoples setup they had a big round switch? Are one of these necessary for my purpose? I would also like to run a wire from my alternator back to the battery to charge while i am driving. Do I need anything between the alternator and battery for this?

Battery
http://www.lowes.com/pd_599946-50656-DC27_0__

80Watt panel
https://www.solarblvd.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_269&products_id=2676

Charge Controller
http://www.amazon.com/Esky-Solar-Ad...ll_btm?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1&sortBy=recent

Fuse Block
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...=UTF8&qid=1460694367&sr=8-3&keywords=fuse+box

1000 watt Inverter (do i need this big?)
http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-1000w-...=UTF8&qid=1460694796&sr=8-4&keywords=inverter

I used 12 guage its far plenty for 20amp or less stuff. As a side note. My house system sits on 12 gauge standard harnesses and have a restricted limit of 16 285watt panels with micro inverters per 12 guage harness.

The big battery shut off switch is nice but since I set up with the controller managing everything going in and out, and the controller has a off mode for the power side I skipped adding the big costly marine switch. I have that on my boat but didnt see the need to spend $ on the switch.

Adding charging from the tow car adds complexity I wanted to avoid. That and my Subaru isnt set up for 7 pin connections and didnt want to bother with it. If your driving more than parked with solar set out, or dont have solar set up during the drive then vehicle charging is probably worth the effort. But if your parked more than driving the vehicle charging isnt as big of a deal. For my use keeping it stand alone on the trailer works best.

 

[calicamper]

As for vehicle charging on the go. These little solar chargers dont care what the power source is all they know is they are getting voltage. If you tied a feed from the car to the controller it would simply manage your battery charging as if the solar panels were plugged in.

 

[calicamper]

If your vehicle has a 7 pin you could simply set up a power feed that feeds juice to the solar in side of the controller when you plug the trailer into the car.
The controllers have a charging / battery management logic, bulk, float etc charging based on the battery level. So by feeding juice to the input side your taking advantage of that charging logic also.

 

[calicamper]

Not sure what the inverter is for? I have a tiny travel inverter we use for the lap top. On rare occasions. I think its 150watt. Very small it fits in the glove box with cables. Lol

This is my fuse block
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00QM...fuse+block&dpPl=1&dpID=41I7B97bgSL&ref=plSrch

I only use marine grade on my sailboat and even then I find the quality is hit or miss. Blusea stuff is nice but I've had some of their costly gear on the boat simply stop working and found corrosion on low quality metals being the cause. I know the overland people like brands and big names and spending $$$$- on toys but I dont see the point of such added cost especially for a trailer and low power needs. I like my little box it lights up a LED if a fuse blows, and is super compact so you can tuck it into a tight spot. Its worked great, and during my learning process a few fuses bit the dust so I know it works ;-)

 

[calicamper]

My set up

 

[calicamper]

The wires on the left side are actually three coiled lines with capped plugs. One is the solar harness which gets pulled out (2ft long) panels have about 5ft cord length on them.
The other two one is a low power source for the tent LEDs which pull about .6 amps when both lights are on at full setting. 3rd feed / cable is the charging hub using the RC battery lead plugs on 10 gauge wire, primary interest was having a good quality plug. The low power lighting stuff all use these.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BY...otive+plug&dpPl=1&dpID=51COo00g8yL&ref=plSrch

Simple cheap plugs. Not very high quality but they work fine and are only supporting about an amp of load from the LEDs.

 

[calicamper]

The fuse block is next to the battery you can see the two screw heads in the side of the ammo box that hold the fuse box in place. After a season of use I plan on adding some simple zip tie retainers to help keep wires neat. But out side of that its done everything we wanted.

 

[calicamper]

The red strip on the battery is just a heavy rubber two sided tape, with a red strip of plastic on it. I wanted a flexible cover over the battery posts to prevent contact with the ammo box lid if a bad bump knocked things loose. The battery is actually held in place via double stick tape side and bottom. I might add a simple strap. But its been fine and zero movement.

The ammo box actually sits on a L bracket with a peice of fiberglass c channel as a spacer given I needed it to sit out far enough for the lid to clear a bracket on the trailer. The white cable is electrical cord from Osh Home store two lines one to my LED in the Tongue box lid and one to the back of the trailer for my LED atv flood light. <- ATV flood was a big deal for backing up into dark camp sites. Right now its on a manual switch at the back of the trailer. But I have a key fob switch I plan to put it on, then key fob stays in the car so I can just flip it on remotely.

 

[calicamper]

Be careful doing this.
Your car output can easily exceed the max current limit of these small charge controllers.

If you wish to utilise car charging along with solar, You will be better off leaving solar controller as solar only. Direct connect car battery to trailer battery via whatever your favourite connector device. (assuming trailer is lead-acid of some kind)



To a guy of low understanding, This above comment maybe not phrased well.
Those 250w module & charge controller will work just fine. MPPT is not required.
But the "problem" is that 250w module can provide far more energy than the PWM charge controller can capture & put to use. If one views unused energy as "wasted" or not is just opinion.
Btw, Its all moot point if the batteries are already charged and no loads exist on the system.
All the sunlight available wont be collected at all !

If the price of that 250W is a 'screaming deal', I suggest using it if your rooftop has room.
Within reason, I think one cant have enough solar collection capacity. (Thats just me, Sunshine is illegal where I live. We have to get by on what gets smuggled in on occasion.)
You can always change to MPPT later on if needs increase & find a PWM is not keeping up with demand.

I think the controller 20amp or 30amp capacity is higher than most vehicles 7 pin output at the rear bumper. But yes that needs to be checked.