Help me plan my van build

sixstringsteve

Explorer
Since I'm just waiting around for my tacoma to sell, there's not much I can do but sit, wait, and plan my next rig. Help me think ahead and try to anticipate some of the things I need. I've talked with Chris quite a bit over at U-joint and he's been very helpful.

I'm a former rockcrawler, and I like stuff overbuilt. yes, 37s are overkill for most trails, but there'll be a few trails where I'll want the ground clearance, look, and ability to air down a ton.

Goal: van similar to vanaconda (reg size with windows, 7.3L diesel), 37s with minimal lift (4"). D60, 10.5 rear end, 4.10 gears? Crossover steering.



Ujoint Conversion kit

Front End
Front hangers - Included in Ujoint kit
Front springs - Included in Ujoint kit
Front Shackles/bushings Included in kit
Ubolts Included in kit
Front shock mounts Included in kit
Front shocks - included in kit
D60 front axle?? $700-$1200 Used off a 99-04 F250, F350


Warn hub conversion $219?? Included in kit?
Crossover steering arm/knuckle included in kit
Sway bar links Included in kit
Hydro assist kit ??? where do I buy this?
Drilled and Tapped ps box $200??
Crossover Steering Included in kit
Steering stabilizer - Included in kit
Tie rod/TR ends? Necessary?
Extended brake lines Included in kit
Front frame support Included in kit

Drivetrain
Tcase $500-700 Nv 271 – will this mate up to the 7.3L?
4x4 tranny output/tranny work ???
Driveshafts $500 each
Crossmember Included in kit???
t-case shifter assembly for vans Included in kit?

Wheels/Tires
37x17” tires $2000
Wheels $500-800 Cragar soft 8s. What's the backspacing on vanaconda?

Rear End
Leaf springs Included in Kit
New shackles??? ???
Extended brake lines Included in kit
Ubolts - keep the stockers
Shock mounts - keep the stockers
shocks - included in kit
Wheel spacers - included in kit

Other
Fuel tank shortening kit? Included in kit
Paying a welder to shorten my tank:
Is a new MC required for the 10.5 rear? What about the 550 knuckles/brakes?

Wish-list, but not in the budget
Ujoint font winch bumper ???
front winch
interior stuff like shelves, seats, sound proofing, etc.


What am I forgetting? I'm sure there will be about $300 in extra nuts and bolts and random parts at the parts store. I'd like to have a laid out plan before attacking it.
 
Last edited:

ujoint

Supporting Sponsor
Lot's of ?? marks..... so here goes!

Front shock mounts are in the complete kit quote. Dual shock mount pricing should be dialed in by the end of the week.

Front shocks are also included, I use the Bilstein 5100's on single shock applications.

The Excursions only came with Dana 50's. If you want a true D60, it will have to come from a 99-04 F350 DRW or an 03-04 F250/F350.

Pinion angle will be OK @ 8" of lift.

The Warn hubs are recommended, but not included in the 6" kit. Always a good upgrade from the factory units.

For hydraulic assist, contact Lee Power Steering or PSC.

I would recommend to replace all wearing parts on the donor axle.

F550 brakes are a great upgrade, but require 20" wheels and a custom machined crossover steering knuckle.

You shouldn't need new brake hard lines unless the van has a major rust problem.

The NV271 will only adapt to the E4OD or 4R100 with an electronic ratio adapter wired into the rear VSS sensor. Pretty simple.

The stock transmission crossmember will work as long as you include my TX001 drop kit.

The t-case shifter isn't included, but is available (part # TC002)

I prefer a 4.5" backspacing.

New rear shackles are nice to have, they can be stubborn to remove & the bushing are usually bad on a used van.

No spring hangers are necessary. Factory is fine.

The stock u-bolts are fine in the back.

Shocks included....

99-04 Sterling axle is fine.

The SA001 sterling kit includes spring perches & shock mounts, you can re use the stock spring plates.

No new MC needed for the Sterling swap.

I hope to have bumpers in production soon, I've had to put those funds towards other things @ the shop..... I'm getting there!!!
 

RocKrawler

Supporting Sponsor
I'd probably go 4.30 (highway) or 4.56 (towing) gears with the 37's, and think 4.10's would be better suited to 33" - 35". The 8" and 37" tire is what I really WANT to do, but 4"-6" is all I NEED to do, so planning on starting off smaller and running it for the duration of the first set of tires, and then deciding based on where I've had issues whether its necessary to go bigger. Granted the E350 is bigger, but if T/Low can hit all the cool places he's shown us with an Astro on 31's, and CCV is hitting Moab with 33's, I'm confident I can follow with 33's to 35's with my RB setup when done. If I had the EB I'd seriously be considering the taller setup myself to start with.
FYI on the 7.3's the 2000 and earlier typically have the forged rods, whereas the 2001+ have the powdered rods (not as strong, only a concern if you have powerplant upgrades planned) and the D60 Superduty front axles started in SRW applications in 2002 - but to be sure get the BOM# off the diff tag (also stamped to the long side axle tube facing forward). Its a 7 or 8 digit number that begins with a "6" and will tell you what the factory gear ratio is and the axle model (junkyards typically charge the same for the weaker Dana 50 as the stronger Dana 60, beter to get the stronger one fo the same price. The 3.73 are most common, but through the years and options, there were 4.10, 4.30 and 4.56 gears available. A good source to find them is car-part.com
 

RocKrawler

Supporting Sponsor
hm... maybe I can stuff bigger meats under with less lift. Like a 4" lift with 35s, or a 6" lift with 37s. Or a 4" lift with 37s :Wow1: That would be sweet. I'm not afriad to tub the fenders, I just don't know how much I have to work with.

I wish I could as well, according to Chris the wheel wells are just too small to stuff that big a tire with that small a lift & have it clear off road. My old Toyota got 38x12.5's stuffed into a 4" lift by tubbing the inside rear corner of the front wheel well at the bottom corner of the firewall - cutting off the corner & plating it in netted about 4.5" of clearance for the tire. I just dont know if we have the room to do the same with our vans... its also why I was considering the 2" body lift to keep the center of gravity lower and being able to use the cheaper 4"-6" kit, avoid the extra jump in price of the 8" with the crossover steering and still fit the bigger tire. I want 37's so bad but keep thinking I'll be settling for 33's - 35's because its not likely I'll be needing anything bigger as the van isnt going to be a rock crawler.
 

sixstringsteve

Explorer
My old Toyota got 38x12.5's stuffed into a 4" lift by tubbing the inside rear corner of the front wheel well at the bottom corner of the firewall - cutting off the corner & plating it in netted about 4.5" of clearance for the tire. I just dont know if we have the room to do the same with our vans...

Yeah, me too. My taco has a 2" lift, lots of tubbing, and 35s. My '81 had 2" lift, tubbing, and room for 40s.


There's gotta be a way. I haven't looked closely enough to figure out what needs to be done. Is it the floor/footrest area, or the outer edge of the fender that's the problem? It looks like Chris' lift pushes the axle forward a bit, which would help.
 

sixstringsteve

Explorer
Ok, the two people I turn to when trying to stuff big tires on small lifts are the iceland guys and the lowriders.

THese pics are just to help me document how tough it'd be to cram some big meats (35+) under a 4" lift.

south-pole-ice-challenger-042.jpg

13_c5.jpg
 

sixstringsteve

Explorer
same here, they're tough to find. I consider "low mileage" under 150k, and have yet to find any under $8k. I haven't been searching too hard because my tacoma hasn't sold yet. But I'll be willing to fly to it. It looks like most are back east.
 

1leglance

2007 Expedition Trophy Champion, Overland Certifie
hassyvulture-9.jpg


I am not sure what height Sportsmobile West considers their lift but I am running 35x12.5/17 Nitto Trail Grapplers with no issues and love them to death.

I put 36,000 miles on the 33" Nittos without a flat or any other issue. The 35's give me even more sidewall to play with, which really matters when airing down something as heavy as the WAVE.

37's would be more than I could live with though I think, without the Rock Slide Engineering Powered StepSliders I have trouble getting in on the 35's.
These thing really do support the weight of the van on rocks and make getting in & out a breeze, especially for the ladies...I love the LED light also.
Here is a video I did, now they have the quick 1 sec motor ready for the production units.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyOwzQBihwc"]YouTube - RockSlideEngineeringPowerStepSlidersDE.wmv[/ame]
 

sixstringsteve

Explorer
cool, thanks Lance. Those steps look great!

From the looks of it, I'd guess that your rig's lift is comparable to Chris' 6" lift (just a guess). I'd love to have that ride height with 37s (so a 5" lift). I'll be fabbing my own sliders/steps, so I can make them the dimensions I need. I wish I had a van to experiment fender trimming on...
 

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