Help, my coilovers are falling apart!

TexasTundra

Observer
Well, I've spent the past 3 months planning how I'm going to build up my truck, and every time I'm about to buy parts to upgrade it something goes wrong. First it was broken axle seals, then 2 O2 sensors, then time for a timing belt and water pump, not to mention yet another inner CV boot completely sheered.

But then 2 days ago I started noticing a clicking noise from my front, right suspension when fully unloaded. Took a look today and this is what I found.

What it's supposed to look like:

RaceRunner COs - Normal.jpeg

What it looks like at full droop, with the swaybar still attached:

RaceRunner COs - Fail.jpeg


So, for now, the build is temporarily on hold. My question is, I've reached out to RaceRunner twice already in the past year looking to have my COs rebuilt, and have been unable to get ahold of anyone. Do you guys know if anyone else rebuilds these things, or if they are still in business but just under a different name? Or can someone else rebuild them for me? Last, how much does it usually cost to rebuild these, because I may be better off just going to Kings or Icons anyway.

Part 2 of my question: I want to completely replace all bushings, seals, etc (anything that wears out) on my front end while I'm at it. This includes suspension and steering. I've found a source for the CV boots (just going to replace the whole axle with a refurb), but does someone sell a kit for replacing everything else?

Thanks
 

cruiseroutfit

Well-known member
Can you see the nut, washer and bushing on the top of the frame strut mount? Looks like your nut came loose and is letting the shock shaft fall out of the mount?
 

drobb

Adventurer
Call these guys. I'm sure they can point you in the right direction.
downsouthmotorsports.com
 

zidaro

Explorer
i completely agree with Cruiser.

all that happened is the shock shaft top retaining nut has fallen out, and you probably lost the bushing too. don't droop the suspension, find a nut and washer to fit, and put it on till you can get the shock rebuilt.


what kind of truck (year tundra?) is this??
 

TexasTundra

Observer
Well thanks cruiser and zidaro, what a simple solution. Thanks for making me feel like the newb that I am :)

And thanks for the link drobb, I'll give them a call today. Still going to do a rebuild since they have about 80K miles on them.
 

Clutch

<---Pass
No you wouldn't. You'd be better off going with OME. Simple and reliable.

Not necessary, just rebuild them. Be waaay cheaper. When OME's wear out and they will, you have to buy new ones, you can rebuild his for about $100 give or take, if you do your
own labor.

SDHQ offers shock service.

Those Race Runners will out perform OME's...I have had my Camburg rebadges for 232K miles, I rebuild them every 100K.
 
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CodyY

Explorer
No you wouldn't. You'd be better off going with OME. Simple and reliable.
Fanboy much?




In all seriousness, START DOING PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE.

Timing belts are 9 yr /90k. No surprise there. Gotta do it.

CV boot fully torn? It's either trail damage or has been split/leaking for quite a while. Did you not do a post - trip inspection?

Shock shaft nuts do not just "fall off". They make a raucous noise for quite a while.

Makes me wonder who is doing your services, are you going to Jiffy Lube? Doing it yourself? Why are these issues not being dealt with in a timely manner before they become a "problem"? The O2 sensors, yeah that'll catch you out. Are you doing the replacement yourself or paying the dealer/shop?



or, did you just buy the truck?
 

155mm

Adventurer
It doesn't sound like he's getting caught out on things, he is doing preventive maintenance with timing belt, water pump, replacing seals, etc. Things break outside of that.
 

Clutch

<---Pass
It doesn't sound like he's getting caught out on things, he is doing preventive maintenance with timing belt, water pump, replacing seals, etc. Things break outside of that.

Thinking the same, sometimes you have no idea when something is going to fail...or don't notice...hmmm... wonder how long that bolt has been missing? :D

I'll do a quicky visual inspection every time I change my oil, but i miss stuff too...only human. :elkgrin:
 

TexasTundra

Observer
I hear ya Cody.

I've owned the truck it's entire life but I've never had the confidence to do any serious work myself other than the normal oil and filter changes. I typically take it to the dealer and have them do all service required, but now I'm trying to teach myself how to do all. I don't know how the CV boot got so bad, last I checked it was leaking a little bit but I couldn't visibly see a tear, and that was back in October. Didn't think it would get so bad so soon.

And I have NO IDEA how I didn't notice the shock making any weird noise. I am usually VERY observant of any new noises. So much so that when I had the dealer replace my rear axle seals, I immediately noticed a clicking sound. I took it back and neither the dealer rep nor the mechanic said they heard anything. Anyway, had them tear it all apart again and turns out they trashed my wheel bearings in the process and somehow didn't notice.

Anyway, I've been keeping up with the PM according to the manual for all the normal stuff, but it's time to step it up beyond that. Between wanting to use it more for off-roading adventures (rather than just half day trips to the OHV park), and recent bad luck with dealer service, I need to start doing it all myself.

First step I've decided is a complete refresh of the drivetrain:

Front Suspension:
- Rebuild the Race Runners with new seals, oil and nitrogen recharge
- Considering doing a UCA upgrade but they are pricey and nothing is rubbing with my current level of travel and tire/wheel combo, so I may just take it all apart and replace all bushings. Still looking for a good kit for doing this

Rear Suspension:
- Fox Racing 2.0 Performance Series IFPs

Drivetrain:
- TC Diff Drop Kit
- TC Urethane Steering Rack Bushing Kit
- Cardone CV Shafts
- Kartek 930 Bates Style CV Boots

Brakes:
- EBC Yellowstuff Pads
- EBC 3GD front rotors (stock ones gonna need replacement soon anyway)

From the info Zidaro and others have posted, it looks like I'll be able to perform most of this myself. I've done a brake swap, and I installed the coilovers myself. The toughest part will be replacing the bushings, but if I need help I'll just pay Garrett Overland a visit.
 

CodyY

Explorer
Hope it didn't come across insulting, apparently you're on a similar wavelength based on your response. :costumed-smiley-007

I'm a Lexus Assistant Service Mgr in Ft. Worth for my day job. But you know we go front to rear on our customers cars with every service. Plus you've obviously seen some of my work :sombrero: So, I see it all. Let me know if you need a hand or want to bring me the CV's to re-assemble. OEM toyota clamps are a PITA without the special tool.
 

TwoTrack

Buy Once, Cry Once
Check out these boots. IMO if your current axles are okay I wouldn't replace them with a reman or lesser aftermarket.

Also IMO the diff drop is worthless on the 1st gen Tundra (not sure what year you have). It only drops the front half of the diff and has very little impact on CV angles. Are you running the SAW's cranked up for lift?
 
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TexasTundra

Observer
Those look interesting. Are they better than the Kartek ones?

That's interesting about the diff drop since that's exactly what it claims to do. I really don't want to have to keep changing boots and figured that would help but you're right, if it's only a partial drop it won't have much of an impact. It seems like a really simple spacer kit though, why wouldn't they just drop the whole diff?
 

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