Help needed, 7" highbeam units, do they exist?

[Christian]

Hello

I need some input, we are modifying a Volvo TGB1314 and converting it in to an expedition style vehicle.

Because of bodylift, new Michelin 11/R16 tyres etc. the original headlights will sit very high. My idea is to make a bumper with some 90 mm hella euro driving lights in, and use the normal headlight position for the highbeams/spotlights, but I have been unable to find any dedicated highbeams that I can mount in the normal position. The original lights were similar to the 7" units on a Land Cruiser HJ/FJ60.

The idea behind is that beacuse the original lights sit so high they will annoy anyone driving in front of us, and be almost useless in fog etc. At the same ime the mod might give an old truck a new look, without totally altering the identity, hence using the original position for highbeams.

Here,s a pic of the front:


All in all; does any of you have an idea on how to mount quality lights like Lightforce, VisionX or similar in a normal bucket?

Thanks a lot!

Christian

P.S. Merry christmas and a Happy New Year From Denmark!

 

[Hilldweller]

Join CPF and ask in the Automotive Lighting section. Great community.
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=87

As for products, I just ordered a 7" light kit for my Wrangler from Rally Lights. I'll be using Hella all the way.
http://www.rallylights.com/
They have all sorts of lights and gizmos.

And don't forget Dan Stern, the ultimate vehicular lighting guru.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/

 

[sargeek]

More

I would mount these on the lower bumber:

CIBIE CSR 5.75" Low Beam Headlights,

Link: http://dsl.torque.net/products/csr.html

I would then leave the stock headlights in place, and use the brights function from the stock headlights, and then wire the low beams as auxiliary headlights with the ability to come on with the low beams.

The CIBIE CSR lights are supposed to be awasome.

 

[Christian]

Thanks for the inputs, they are highly appreciated!

I actually found something on
http://www.rallylights.com/
It's a pod design version of the Hella Rallye 4000 compacts:
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=1223
They might be ideal for the original position.
There's no photo of them though, so I have to mail Rallylights and ask about them. I have not seen anything similar this side of the Atlantic on anything other than proffesional rallycars.

The is another reason I won't use the original lights, they are pre-halogen (round bulbs), and do not light the road very well. As we are re-designing the entire front, I would like a "newer" look, so the 4000 compact pods in clear pencil beam could be the way to go.

As for the bumper i think the 5.75" might be a bit too big, my idea is to mount them inside the bumper, a bit like ARB does with the fog lights, that is why I think Hellas 90mm units would be great.

 

[bjowett]

In my experience stay away from the pencil beams as your only high beam source. They simply do not have enough spread to deal with any amount of off center lighting. Get the euro/driving pattern.

The 90mm DE projector modules work excellent! Highly recomended, great output for the size.

 

[Christian]

I am a bit confused on the pencil beam/high beam definitions. Here in Europe we have low beam/high beam with the euro beam pattern (assymetrical cut-off). Is what you call euro-pattern a high-beam?

 

[bjowett]

Sorry for the confusion.

A regular high beam is not a pencil beam.

The assymetrical pattern is on ECE low beam.

Yes, what I am calling a euro/driving is more akin to the ECE high beam.

 

[Christian]

Don't be sorry, I ended up learning something, and that is always good!

Then I will go for euro low beam 90 mm in the bumper and Hella 4000/luminator compact eurobeams for highbeams, that must be it!

Unfortunately the pod model seems to be sold out at rallylights, and I have been unable to find them anywhere else, but if push comes to shove I think I can fix it by buying the units without the housing (Hella sells them as spare parts) and make my own pod mounts.

 

[skysix]

Not sure the laws where you are but in Alberta, Canada, you must have the headlights at or below 54" (4' 6") from the center to the ground. Anything higher must be covered if on a highway. Of course they must also be aligned properly and with the correct low and high beam patterns...

But that still allows you 137cm (say 1.35 meters to be safe) from the ground to the middle of the headlight... I had a rack with four 7" high/low Hellas on the roof of an Austin Mini and switched the regular headlights for 7" round fogs. Wired to give 4H+4L, 4H, 2H+2L, 2L (and fog's at any time). Ran up and down the Alaska highway and all over northern Alberta and never a ticket. (Be sure to add 'shields' to the lower edge of the lamps to ensure light misses the hood or it affects your vision even with a flat back paint on the hood!)

Would likely use HID's now as was a high current draw system...

 

[Christian]

That must have been some Mini! my first car was a Mini, ah... the memories!

We have rules about the height of headlights, but since I use the original position which has been approved I do not think it will be a problem, however we have rules that say that you cannot have HID unless there is a high pressure washing system and automatic leveling system. It can be done, but is very expensive, and therefore a wish, not a must-have.

As for glare in the hood, well we do not have one (hood that is). It is a cab-forward truck, there is a pic in the first post. But thanks for the heads up!

I hope to hear from Rallylights soon, otherwise I will just buy a pair of 4000 compact driving beams and make my own mounts, which when looking at prices would actually be cheaper.

 

[skysix]

Most memorable trip was Edmonton to Dettah (in the NWT - past Yellowknife on a dirt road/gravel) with 2 diving boards (16' long) on the roof topped with 4 duffle bags of SCUBA gear, only one seat, five 20l gas cans in the back and all my camping gear, and 3 boxes of textbooks.. (was starting a beach to teach swimming to Dene kids)

Made it all the way with 2 us twenty-five cent pieces jammed in ahead of the rear suspension cones for more lift, blew a CV while 'offroading' in a working gold mine on the return trip (and had to rebuild on the roadside - used some rocks (granite) which took 2 days to find for the missing ball bearings and duct tape and one of my spare inner tubes to make a boot. First gear VERY carefuly 16 miles back to Yellowknife for proper repair...)