Help Please with Dream Rig!

Regcabguy

Oil eater.
'07 on down w/5.9 CTD and a manual transmission.
Carli or Thuren 3" lift system w/King 2.5 shocks.
Carli or Thuren control arms to recenter the axle.
Toyo 35-12.50-17 MT tires on stock forged rims.
If you want to go with a fiberglass shell,consider a Snugtop.
They offer a contractor beefup w/stronger sides and roof.
I recently toured the Aluminess factory and just didn't get the feeling their product could take a big hit. Maybe an ARB/Fusion product might be more useful.
www.marathonseatcovers.com for bulletproof protection against the elements,along w/Weathertech floor mats.
 

Rovertrader

Supporting Sponsor
I started a similar build, then considered selling- why I am not sure. Had a local Expo fella come take a look at it, and decided NOT to sell. I started with an '07 PW, added the new '09/'10 steering bits per Don Thuren's advise, added his links and track bar and stabelizer. Fitted 35s (33s are stock)and a Flippac. Then added a 1" front spacer for leveling, ditched the 35s, went to 37s with only rubbing in the rear fenderwells. Ordered a Ute bed, here now waiting to install after moving the Flippac to a M101. Fitted ram assist last week, and now removing heims from steering bits and fitting tierod ends. Also fitted a Ranch Hand after a bit of altering for the PW- which they told me it 'wouldn't' fit. Hopefully to be finished next week or two, and plan to never sell it. It is the most versatile truck/4x4 I have ever had which is waaay too many over the last 40 years of driving.
As far as weight being an issue, my ball joints are already showing slight signs of wear at 18k miles. They are a weak link, and hate big tires. So, one last item to address in another 10k miles or so. I cannot say enough good about the PW. Rides great on road, and extremely capable offroad with tons of flex with sways disconnected. Reconnect at the touch of a button, and back to highway cruiser. Milage sucks, but 400hp and 37s w/ 4.56s it should. One last thing, being an engineer. These trucks were designed from the getgo by a room full of engineers, and not just a truck with parts thrown at it, hence very capable from the start. We can move the bias by altering, but do not have to design from the ground up. Just saying...
 

merrittexpo

New member
So the plan...

Thanks guys for all of the great ideas and comments. I have taken them to heart and think that I have my plan in place now. Just need to do a little more saving before making the purchase and then we will see how it goes.

Gonna go with a new Dodge Powerwagon, add some Carli suspension goodies, make room for 37's, add a LEER shell with Adventure Package, some Aluminess bumpers with possibly the rear tire carrier and boxes, make sure we are fully skidplated, finish out the interior with some neat add-ons from Geno's garage and some custom leather seat covers. In the bed gonna build some slide out shelves, custom storage for a frig, fit the spare tire if not on the rear bumper, etc.

For me, I think that the interior size and fitment of a full size pickup is perfect (two adults and two kids, with maybe a third). The durability of a 3/4 ton truck is nice. The fact that the Powerwagon has all of the things I would want to add to a diesel factory makes the decision easier, and I only plan on towing a large popup or a small travel trailer down the road so no worries with the HEMI. While money is not the driving factor behind this build (I plan on building and keeping this truck until I can't drive), saving a few thousand bucks simply let's me put that money into the Expo Travel fund right away and take a nice western excurision trip sooner rather than later.

Thanks again and I wll let everyone know when I have started the build by beginning a new thread.

Kevin
 

shellb

Adventurer
I started a similar build, then considered selling- why I am not sure. Had a local Expo fella come take a look at it, and decided NOT to sell. I started with an '07 PW, added the new '09/'10 steering bits per Don Thuren's advise, added his links and track bar and stabelizer. Fitted 35s (33s are stock)and a Flippac. Then added a 1" front spacer for leveling, ditched the 35s, went to 37s with only rubbing in the rear fenderwells. Ordered a Ute bed, here now waiting to install after moving the Flippac to a M101. Fitted ram assist last week, and now removing heims from steering bits and fitting tierod ends. Also fitted a Ranch Hand after a bit of altering for the PW- which they told me it 'wouldn't' fit. Hopefully to be finished next week or two, and plan to never sell it. It is the most versatile truck/4x4 I have ever had which is waaay too many over the last 40 years of driving.
As far as weight being an issue, my ball joints are already showing slight signs of wear at 18k miles. They are a weak link, and hate big tires. So, one last item to address in another 10k miles or so. I cannot say enough good about the PW. Rides great on road, and extremely capable offroad with tons of flex with sways disconnected. Reconnect at the touch of a button, and back to highway cruiser. Milage sucks, but 400hp and 37s w/ 4.56s it should. One last thing, being an engineer. These trucks were designed from the getgo by a room full of engineers, and not just a truck with parts thrown at it, hence very capable from the start. We can move the bias by altering, but do not have to design from the ground up. Just saying...

I can confirm this! Hope to have you work your magic on my own truck someday!
 

Fish

Adventurer
Here's my thoughts as the owner of a similar truck.

The advantage of the PW over the non-PW is the suspension.
The advantage of the CTD over the Hemi is the powertrain.
Which is easier to change?

My understanding is that the PW springs are softer than stock. I know my truck has a larger shell and even softer yet springs, but I'm not happy with how it sags in the rear right now. I do know one guy with a a popup on a PW and it seems to be ok, but for how long? Then, guess what... you're paying for suspension anyway.

If you're serious about potentially hauling a lot of stuff and traveling, I'd go with the 2500 CTD. What if you decide you want to tow one day?
 

shellb

Adventurer
I am a bit biased, but I'd say go diesel, and bring an extra 10 gallons of diesel fuel with ya...
Scott

Here's my thoughts as the owner of a similar truck.

The advantage of the PW over the non-PW is the suspension.
The advantage of the CTD over the Hemi is the powertrain.
Which is easier to change?

My understanding is that the PW springs are softer than stock. I know my truck has a larger shell and even softer yet springs, but I'm not happy with how it sags in the rear right now. I do know one guy with a a popup on a PW and it seems to be ok, but for how long? Then, guess what... you're paying for suspension anyway.

If you're serious about potentially hauling a lot of stuff and traveling, I'd go with the 2500 CTD. What if you decide you want to tow one day?

Great trucks gentlemen...both builds look great. Nice job!
 

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