Hi lift jack size question
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Abel Villesca
Explorer
I've used my HiLift to get out of deep holes and with that much lift the 60 inch is what I'm using.
mountainpete
Spamicus Eliminatus
Absolutely no question. Go with the 60".
ChemicalToilet
New member
60" definitely with a fullsize truck. I have a 48" on my Jeep and that is just enough for it. I suggest carrying a fix-it kit (pretty sure that's what they're called).
Skip the h-lift all together. If you need a way of lifting your vehicle for changing out a flat tire, then go for the bottle jack. Its a lot less room and weight to carry and store. You will need a base for it to be able to use in different terrain.
If your hi-lift intent was for changing a tire as well as other things, like to use as a winch, then I suggest a 60" for the length as a winch. A 60" is usually too wobbly with lifted weight up high. Do a flat driveway test and mark the height necessary to lift the tire off the ground. Do note, the full of air tire is necessary for height test purposes because a flat tire the axle will be lower and it can be easily pulled off, but the spare will have air in it so the axle has to be up in the air to make it clear the terrain. To add with the lift, your suspension will probably have better droop than stock with the lift. You can always strap up the axle, but pushing/pulling a tire off/on an axle with lifted weight is a balancing act. I wouldn't want to be under.....
Make sure you get a matching spare as well.
But first after install of lift and tires, try your stock setup to see if its capable. If not, I'd step up to a bottle jack. The hi-lift would be my last choice.
If your hi-lift intent was for changing a tire as well as other things, like to use as a winch, then I suggest a 60" for the length as a winch. A 60" is usually too wobbly with lifted weight up high. Do a flat driveway test and mark the height necessary to lift the tire off the ground. Do note, the full of air tire is necessary for height test purposes because a flat tire the axle will be lower and it can be easily pulled off, but the spare will have air in it so the axle has to be up in the air to make it clear the terrain. To add with the lift, your suspension will probably have better droop than stock with the lift. You can always strap up the axle, but pushing/pulling a tire off/on an axle with lifted weight is a balancing act. I wouldn't want to be under.....
Make sure you get a matching spare as well.
But first after install of lift and tires, try your stock setup to see if its capable. If not, I'd step up to a bottle jack. The hi-lift would be my last choice.
superpowerdave
Adventurer
I'm with Mike. A hi-lift has it's place, but it's not the tool I reach for when wanting to change out a tire. A bottle jack, on an appropriate base, is much more stable and eliminates the need for a suitable jacking point on the vehicle. I have a winch so I've never needed to use it for that, or really had a desire to do so honestly.
I love my hi-lift and use it often on the trail (never on my own though for some reason). I wound up buying the wheel lift accessory though and that has been used frequently as an add-on. It comes in handy when a vehicle is mired in mud and just needs some rocks/sticks/floor mats tossed underneath the tire for traction. A buddy of mine also has an adapter used for straightening bent track rods, which has come in handy a few times since we've been in Idaho.
I think mine sees more use than anybody else's though because mine isn't bolted to a tire carrier or anything like that. It lives in the backseat of my Discovery bungee tied to the seat rails so it's pretty easily accesible.
I love my hi-lift and use it often on the trail (never on my own though for some reason). I wound up buying the wheel lift accessory though and that has been used frequently as an add-on. It comes in handy when a vehicle is mired in mud and just needs some rocks/sticks/floor mats tossed underneath the tire for traction. A buddy of mine also has an adapter used for straightening bent track rods, which has come in handy a few times since we've been in Idaho.
I think mine sees more use than anybody else's though because mine isn't bolted to a tire carrier or anything like that. It lives in the backseat of my Discovery bungee tied to the seat rails so it's pretty easily accesible.
Guinness44
Adventurer
No matter, how you jack to change a tire, BACK IT UP. We carry a 6ton jackstand, AND for minimum put the bad tire under the frame. Hi-Lifts are very unstable, ours is in front of the garage, and will never go on trails ever again. Heavy trucks can also bend them, its happened to a fellow owner.
Abel Villesca
Explorer
Like any tool, a hi-lift can be dangerous if not used properly. I grew up on a ranch and hi-lifts were always in use for various purposes including changing tires. That said I wouldn't use mine for a simple tire change. I carry mine primarily for getting un-stuck when the winch or other options aren't enough or there aren't suitable anchor points.
As with any tool from something as mundane as a screw driver to something as potentially hazardous as a rifle practice and familiarity are essential to safe operation. At the minimum a new hi-lift owner should carefully study the manual and practice lifting in a safe environment with the vehicle properly chocked, brakes set and transmission in gear or park. If possible training that includes use of a hi-lift or similar jack is recommended. You can always teach an old dog new tricks
As with any tool from something as mundane as a screw driver to something as potentially hazardous as a rifle practice and familiarity are essential to safe operation. At the minimum a new hi-lift owner should carefully study the manual and practice lifting in a safe environment with the vehicle properly chocked, brakes set and transmission in gear or park. If possible training that includes use of a hi-lift or similar jack is recommended. You can always teach an old dog new tricks
Grim Reaper
Expedition Leader
Chain the axle to the frame. Lift as little as possible if you have to remove the tire. The most dangerous thing on the trail is a Hilift. Use it with EXTREME caution. That said it is also extremely useful.
Get a 20foot length of "Truckers Chain". That has the hooks that can hook back to the chain. A High lift can be used as a winch but you can't do it with a recovery strap because of the stretch.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40461
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40462
Get a 20foot length of "Truckers Chain". That has the hooks that can hook back to the chain. A High lift can be used as a winch but you can't do it with a recovery strap because of the stretch.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40461
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40462
bronconite
Observer
I'd definitly get the 60". I wouldn't go out with out a high lift. It's a very versatile tool. You can even do front end alignments with them:sombrero:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1644955&postcount=66
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1644955&postcount=66
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HiLifts are as useful as they are dangerous. When in use I think of it as a loaded gun. I carry a 60" and recommend that length. The only reason to carry a 48 is if there is absolutely no way to carry a 60.
I agree with the above post about also carrying the HiLift wheel adaptor and the chain. I carry a 20 ft length of 3/8 Grade 70 Transport Chain. HiLifts Off Road kit includes the rigging needed to conveniently whinch backwards with the 20 ft chain. With the ORK you never have to relieve tension when winching. And on the chain spend the extra money and buy domestic. I've seen the Chinese chain break way below their grade. I won't use Chinese chains, hooks or shackles.
I agree with the above post about also carrying the HiLift wheel adaptor and the chain. I carry a 20 ft length of 3/8 Grade 70 Transport Chain. HiLifts Off Road kit includes the rigging needed to conveniently whinch backwards with the 20 ft chain. With the ORK you never have to relieve tension when winching. And on the chain spend the extra money and buy domestic. I've seen the Chinese chain break way below their grade. I won't use Chinese chains, hooks or shackles.
Over The Edge
New member
HiLift and the Ford F250
Based on experience, I have been in this situation many times as I drive an F250 SD with 5" lift, 37" - 40" tires, winches, skidplates, etc., on the trails of the northeast. I would agree with the previous postings, you will need a 60", but be careful... the front weight of the truck will max the jack and you will actually get a fair amount of deformation (once you have the load in the air) i.e., the jack will bend under the load and the lift head could actually bind on the beam. However, I limit the amount of lift by using a 2"/10-15K lb. racheting tie-down (safer than a snatch chain) to conpress or at least stop suspension droop when you jack it up. This will also reduce the chance of damage to your front diff and spread the load over a greater area. The less you raise it the less the beam will deform. However, (unless necessary) I always use an appropriately sized bottlejack, it's just safer, in the long run.
Based on experience, I have been in this situation many times as I drive an F250 SD with 5" lift, 37" - 40" tires, winches, skidplates, etc., on the trails of the northeast. I would agree with the previous postings, you will need a 60", but be careful... the front weight of the truck will max the jack and you will actually get a fair amount of deformation (once you have the load in the air) i.e., the jack will bend under the load and the lift head could actually bind on the beam. However, I limit the amount of lift by using a 2"/10-15K lb. racheting tie-down (safer than a snatch chain) to conpress or at least stop suspension droop when you jack it up. This will also reduce the chance of damage to your front diff and spread the load over a greater area. The less you raise it the less the beam will deform. However, (unless necessary) I always use an appropriately sized bottlejack, it's just safer, in the long run.