DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Scott wrote this in his arctic trip report:
There are reasons that HID is preferred in a bike light, which are less important in a car. The main one is light output per energy used. A HID is around twice to four times more efficient at giving useful light per watt. A 4 A-hr battery will provide about 500 lumens for about 4 hours (at 13.2V). This is roughly the same light as a 35 watt halogen and that will deplete a 12v, 4 A-hr battery in about an hour. So that alone is what makes HID a very attractive alternative for cycling. We typically get about 2 to 2.5 hours between laps to get a charge on the battery and my laps (at Moab for an example) run around roughly 1:15 to 1:35. So I'm only using up 30% of the capacity per lap and so I can do back-to-back laps on one charge with 1000 lumens of light (I have two HIDs for racing) and get both charged in about 3 hours on a fast charger. It's a matter of logistics for endurance racing.
But the downside to having all that light is that you have kill your night vision and your color perception is shifted. An HID light is around 6000*K, which is bad because it ruins your eye's interpretation of color at night. It turns out that your eye likes a more yellow shift rather than a blue one, which is the HID shift. It seems brighter, but your ability to pick out details actually goes down. It's more obvious at the fringes. I personally wear yellow lenses in my glasses when I ride at night, which helps me pick out details in the trail.
Truck-wise, I like my Hella Vision Plus housings with Osram 60/55 bulbs. These are the standard bulbs, 3200*K, about 1600 lumens. I run them with a direct-to-battery harness (I use Roger Brown's) and get about 13.3V at the bulb. This is a little higher than I would like, but I still get usually about a year or two from the filaments.
Anyway, I'd like to hear what others have to say. What color temp shift is the breaking point for you? Daniel Stern wrote this, just as a starting point:
Disadvantages of HID
This has been mentioned that before (about the HID). I'd like to explore that some more. I'm not disagreeing, largely because I don't have HID automotive experience to even remotely draw on. I do have HID lights for the bike and a ton of experience with those, particularly comparing halogen to HID.some good aux. lights (I would recommend HID)
There are reasons that HID is preferred in a bike light, which are less important in a car. The main one is light output per energy used. A HID is around twice to four times more efficient at giving useful light per watt. A 4 A-hr battery will provide about 500 lumens for about 4 hours (at 13.2V). This is roughly the same light as a 35 watt halogen and that will deplete a 12v, 4 A-hr battery in about an hour. So that alone is what makes HID a very attractive alternative for cycling. We typically get about 2 to 2.5 hours between laps to get a charge on the battery and my laps (at Moab for an example) run around roughly 1:15 to 1:35. So I'm only using up 30% of the capacity per lap and so I can do back-to-back laps on one charge with 1000 lumens of light (I have two HIDs for racing) and get both charged in about 3 hours on a fast charger. It's a matter of logistics for endurance racing.
But the downside to having all that light is that you have kill your night vision and your color perception is shifted. An HID light is around 6000*K, which is bad because it ruins your eye's interpretation of color at night. It turns out that your eye likes a more yellow shift rather than a blue one, which is the HID shift. It seems brighter, but your ability to pick out details actually goes down. It's more obvious at the fringes. I personally wear yellow lenses in my glasses when I ride at night, which helps me pick out details in the trail.
Truck-wise, I like my Hella Vision Plus housings with Osram 60/55 bulbs. These are the standard bulbs, 3200*K, about 1600 lumens. I run them with a direct-to-battery harness (I use Roger Brown's) and get about 13.3V at the bulb. This is a little higher than I would like, but I still get usually about a year or two from the filaments.
Anyway, I'd like to hear what others have to say. What color temp shift is the breaking point for you? Daniel Stern wrote this, just as a starting point:
Disadvantages of HID
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