high output solar panels?

[Coachgeo]

yeah ideally you want no flex, but i always tend to over think engineering, hensh the extra fold down awning legs to the body for extra support

Im looking forwards to seeing what you come up with, i've seen some in the past with electronic in/out controls

it will be a long while sorry. Other things above this on the todo list. LIke mount the habitat which wont be probably till Sept? lol

 

[Trestle]

1 - Ever seen the steel shelf supports that are used to make a flip up section at the end of a counter or other location? Build a bigger version of that and mount some panels on it so that they can be flipped up once on site. Put them at roof height, and buy panels big enough that they will shade the side windows on the camper when folded up (horizontal). Shouldn't stick out more than 3" when folded down (thickness of a panel plus 1" square steel tubing plus some fudge factor) off the sides of the vehicle, which is less than the additional space a side view mirror takes up.

Use the alternator to charge while driving via a DC to DC charger. Get on site, and fold up your window shade awnings/solar panels for power. Leaves the roof open for other uses too such as a roof top platform, carrying some gear, more solar panels, vents, etc.

Something I am thinking about for my next build anyway.

2 - I find with some measurement and planning, you can pick up fairly good sized panels very inexpensively if you simply search on craigslist. Usually it is someone who did a house and has some left over, or it is a solar company that over ordered. I bought my 320 watt single panel for $220 two years ago. Just looked yesterday and found 2x ads. 1 for 305 watt panels @ $180 each, and another for 310 watt panels @ $140 each. Win for you, win for the guy who ordered/paid for too may panels for his house, etc. FWIW.

 

[aernan]

I have taken my truck offroading a couple of times. I hit all kinds of branches and limbs. I'm concerned I would crack the panels if I mount them out there.

 

[brp]

Ultimately I am limited by total surface area to mount the panels. I plan on using my panels to power an Air Conditioner so that means I will be parking in direct sunlight so shading is not a huge concern. I am also considering making it possible to set up additional panels off the vehicle so I can get best angle and boost the system. I guess it depends on space on the truck to transport them and their frame.

It's seems like parking in direct sun because you have the AC going is kind of fighting yourself.

I have limited experience with this, and perhaps if you have enough solar you can kind of overpower the sun, but it just seems like having your panels in the sun and your vehicle in the shade makes the most sense. If you're in deserts mostly, may not be an option.

 

[aernan]

I can't imagine the hassle of physically setting up panels in the sun every time I stop. I might cary spare panels that I could deploy in the sun with a feed line and frame but I would need to be clever on how I transport them. For me using an RV I expect there is no camp setup/tear down. If this is the case I will be enticed to stop more often at nice spots and leave whenever I like.

 

[Buddha.]

Of course with the sun vs shade argument it matters how well you're insulated.

 

[Trestle]

I agree about hitting them on tree branches, etc. I have one on the roof of my Sprinter, and have to be careful about that. On the sides could be worse.

Another idea that comes to mind is having them stacked on the roof like an top and bottom drawer. Same concept as far as the panel serving double duty of a window shade awning, as well as producing power. The lower of the two would slide out like a drawer to provide an awning effect over the side windows so as to stop thermal gain there. The mechanism shouldn't be that hard, since slider drawers with locked in and locked out positions are available. I think the harder part would be managing the wires during the slide in/out process.

Either way you have me thinking, and that is part of the fun.

 

[Coachgeo]

I agree about hitting them on tree branches, etc. I have one on the roof of my Sprinter, and have to be careful about that. On the sides could be worse.

Another idea that comes to mind is having them stacked on the roof like an top and bottom drawer. Same concept as far as the panel serving double duty of a window shade awning, as well as producing power. The lower of the two would slide out like a drawer to provide an awning effect over the side windows so as to stop thermal gain there. The mechanism shouldn't be that hard, since slider drawers with locked in and locked out positions are available. I think the harder part would be managing the wires during the slide in/out process.

Either way you have me thinking, and that is part of the fun.

hmm..... now where have I heard that idea before lol.

Was pretty sure I was not alone in this idea .... ain't no way I am actually smarter than million other people..That is how Im doing it..... 1000w total. two on cab at angle so they also act as wind deflector, and two shelves of 4 on Ambo roof. One set slides out for exposure and to act as awning. Anyway had not thought about the wires yet... thanks for bringing that up. BTW.... you could design the rack to slide the top or the bottom out. Not sure which one would be best though. bottom is better for slide out.....in one respect cause it creates a gap below top array for air airflow allowing the top array to stay cooler compared to them being fixed flat to rooftop like many RV's are set up. Butttt.... this may not be high enough to allow for entry door to swing out so you may Have to have the top one slide out to make room for door(s) to open.

 

[dwh]

Wire management may not be the biggest issue...

Keeping dirt and dust out of the slides may be.

 

[aernan]

I work in Telecom/Networking professionally. At the back of Dell Servers there is an optional arm that connects from the server to the rack. You can take the server and slide it completely out of the front of the rack and the arm straightens with all the wires fully connected. It works excellent.

If you are moving things vertically instead of horizontally (like our problem) you can use an articulated cable guide
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Plasti...ocphy=9031935&hvtargid=pla-365229598478&psc=1

 

[aernan]

Maybe we could start with something smaller/simpler and prove the concept. It would be nice to have an awning over the door only so you are shielded from rain/snow/bright sun on exit/entry. Maybe design a simple system that can extend/stow a single panel for that area.

 

[Coachgeo]

I work in Telecom/Networking professionally. At the back of Dell Servers there is an optional arm that connects from the server to the rack. You can take the server and slide it completely out of the front of the rack and the arm straightens with all the wires fully connected. It works excellent.

If you are moving things vertically instead of horizontally (like our problem) you can use an articulated cable guide
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Plasti...ocphy=9031935&hvtargid=pla-365229598478&psc=1

interesing..... looks like one could fab up their own like the one in video with pvc pipe.

why would the chain style not work horizontally? granted you would need something to recoil the chain back up hmmm... pull start lawnmower mechanism?

 

[Coachgeo]

Maybe we could start with something smaller/simpler and prove the concept. It would be nice to have an awning over the door only so you are shielded from rain/snow/bright sun on exit/entry. Maybe design a simple system that can extend/stow a single panel for that area.

updated my post above (#24 or https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/high-output-solar-panels.196050/post-2505756 ). Adds points about issue with awning and opening entry door, vertical storage doors etc.

 

[aernan]

To improve the efficiency of solar panels you can put a phase change material (bag with salt water) on the back.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0378778813001539
I would like to do something like this but I need to engineer my box and contents before I focus on improving solar performance.

 

[grizzlyj]

My solar controller input accepts up to 36 volts. So I may stack three 12v panels into each one which I'm told will be more efficient. But I have yet to check if thats peak or nominal, quite a difference