The only reason to run any loads off the solar controller is to take advantage of its LVD cutoff, and that will only allow for very light loads in total amps.
The converter is for charging the battery and running all other 12V loads, but only when connected to shore power.
Hope that helps.
If that's all he's trying to do. Then you pick up a shore power battery charger an intelligent one like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01A...0_QL65&keywords=15+amp+marine+battery+charger
Bank refers to how many batteries you have and if they are grouped in seperate groups.
I have two large batteries isolated into two banks on my boat. I have a two bank charger.
I have a large switch that allows me to power 12v system one one or the other battery or both.
If you need more Amps to cover constant 12v appliance load you buy one with a higher Amp rating. The solar controller goes directly to the battery as does the shore charger. The solar controller simply will go to float mode when shore power is charging etc.
you don't convert 110 to 12v to power stuff. 12v system is based on the battery power in power out. Power in needs to be smartly managed. A "dumb" converter simply dumps 12v power into what ever it's hooked too regardless if the battery is being cooked etc. that's why you have the advanced shore power charger/power unit drawing off 110.