House battery troubleshooting

James86004

Expedition Leader
I need help diagnosing before I start throwing money at the problem of our house battery not holding a charge. I can't decide if it is because it is old and abused, or there is something intermittently drawing it down.

In July, we bought a 2004 Sprinter with 45 kilomiles on it. It is an Airstream Interstate RV conversion. In 2014 the previous owner replaced the house battery under the passenger seat with a "Global Source One" 92 Ah AGM battery. In addition, he installed a second 82 Ah AGM battery in parallel, which I don't think was a good idea.

We took the long way home from where we bought it in California, traveling up to Mt. St. Helens, across to North Dakota, then home to Tucson over 25 days. We spent some nights in RV parks plugged in, others wild camping for one or two nights. On the wild camping nights we used the lights, the roof fan, and the fresh water pump. It worked perfectly.

When we got home we put our ARB refrigerator in it, connected to the underseat house battery. Then we left for a 3 night camping trip on the Mogollon Rim. We arrived after dark, and within 10 minutes of turning the interior lights one, we noticed they were really dim. I measured the voltage on the house batteries and it was 10 Volts. We shut everything off and went to bed.

The next morning I started the engine to see if the batteries were getting charge, they had 13.8 volts, so the charging relay was working. I let the engine idle for an hour and then shut it off. After another hour the battery voltage was 12.3. By the evening, it had dropped to 10. We decided we didn't need cold beverages so we disconnected the fridge, and dealt with the lack of lighting with our flashlights.

At home, I got out my clamp meter and measured the current draw of everything, With the engine running, there are a lot of amps flowing into the house batteries. Engine off, the relay opens and the current draw drops to around 1/4 amp, which I think is mainly the propane leak monitor. Plugged in to AC, there is current flowing into the battery trying to charge it.

I removed both house batteries and put them on a Noco charger. After 24 hours, the 92 Ah battery would drop to 9 volts within seconds of removing the charger. The 82 Ah would still be at 12.6 volts the next morning. So, I put the 82 Ah battery back in the van and removed the parallel wiring.

Two weeks later the 82 Ah battery is not holding a charge, either. So do I get a new battery, or should I investigate if there is an intermittent draw that is flattening the battery? Is there a battery monitor that records that?
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
sounds like both batteries might have been damaged by being connected in parallel. You can do that with disparate batteries when charging, but not when you have a draw, IIRC.

You say you removed the parallel wiring when you reinstalled them both, but how are you charging them?

I'd be trying another full recharge cycle on both batteries (separately) and start going thru everything looking for a short, faulty wiring and cataloguing all the passive draws.

Do you have have things like USB inverters etc connected all the time? I've added four in my Suburban and their small consumption will knock my batteries down half a volt in a week. When I get around to tying most of them to my Aux / Solar setup I'll likely rewire the string of them with an on-off switch to kill that load when I don't need it. Maybe consider something similar with whatever you have connected to your House batts. Or at least isolate and re-connect your devices until you find the culprit. Basis troubleshooting procedures are called for, so you can rule things out as well as I.D. the culprit.
 

James86004

Expedition Leader
You say you removed the parallel wiring when you reinstalled them both, but how are you charging them?

I just installed the one that held a charge. The other one is sitting on the side of my house.

I'd be trying another full recharge cycle on both batteries (separately) and start going thru everything looking for a short, faulty wiring and cataloguing all the passive draws.
I did that, the passive draws are <0.25 A

Do you have have things like USB inverters etc connected all the time?

Not yet, although we have 12 USB ports installed in our 92 Range Rover plus an Engel fridge, running off an ACR controlled dual battery system and don't have these problems.
 

James86004

Expedition Leader
It sounds like both batteries are knackered.
Fwiw, ”around 1/4 amp” when shut off is huge ’parasitic’ load. Thats 6Ah/day !
Said that, you might test again with a regular meter. Clamp meters can be inaccurate measuring at low currents.
You are right, I should do that. FWIW, 1/4 amp is the high end because of the inaccuracy. I will put the ammeter in line next.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Mismatched batteries hardwired together since 2014? They're shot. Get a new matched set. Sounds like the charging systems are working fine.
 

evldave

Expedition Trophy Winner
I agree with dwh. I'm actually surprised those batteries lasted 4 years. My guess is the previous owner never really taxed the batteries and your trips likely fi is he'd them off. Your best bet is to get 2 identical batteries (make, mfr date, model) and replace both.

Once you I stall the 2 batteries, if you still have issues then I would suggest chasing gremlins, otherwise you might just be wasting time

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

john61ct

Adventurer
You need proper deep cycle batts, not the 99.99% which are fraudulently labeled as such.

https://marinehowto.com/what-is-a-deep-cycle-battery/

The best battery value by far is Duracell (actually Deka/East Penn) FLA deep cycle golf cart batteries, 2x6V, around $200 per 200+AH pair from BatteriesPlus or Sam's Club. Deka labeled same batts also sold at Lowes.

Then you need to learn to treat them well, and yes a good batt monitor helps.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
I did that, the passive draws are <0.25 A

Are you sure you didn't misread that? I don't know squat about Sprinters, but that should probably be .025 instead of .250. My guess on the batteries is that the mismatched pair is not the problem, as much as having one bad one drawing down the good one. A fresh pair of matched deep cycles would probably the prudent way to go. Regarding the parasitic drain, are you sure the house batteries are isolated from the starting battery when the truck is off? Wiring might have been fiddled with after AirStream did their work. A 2004 Sprinter might have a lot of the same electronics as a 2005 Dodge, and my 2005 Dodge has had a tendency to drain the starting battery ever since I switched to AGMs. My parasitic drain has consistently measured around 35ma (by me and by two professional shops), spec per Dodge is 25-50ma, but starting battery still goes flat when truck is not driven regularly. If your house batteries are not properly isolated, there may be issues with the ECM or aftermarket stuff like alarm systems.
 

James86004

Expedition Leader
I measured it again with my Fluke 77 in line with the house battery ground. 0.25 A. The only things on were the propane leak monitor and 2 USB ports, 3W seems reasonable for that.

John61ct, that is an interesting, albeit long-winded article.

Yesterday we bought two 6V GC2 batteries and installed them where the old parallel battery was. The cables there are 4 ga and about 6 feet long. Is that heavy enough? If I turn everything on, and the fridge compressor is running, there are 11 A flowing. The shore power charger is 55 A. I am not sure what the alternator can deliver.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
#4 is fine. Either the shore charger or the alternator will only deliver as many amps as the batteries' resistance will allow to flow. You might see some decent peak amps for an hour or two, but most of the many hours that it takes to fully charge will be at much lower amperage due to battery resistance.
 

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