How big of a charger?

dreadlocks

Well-known member
sounds like he wants to use the winch to pull is parking brakes or something.. not really sure why a giant truck needs little winches.. mebe a hand winch would be fine?
 

MTVR

Well-known member
16A for that Norcold, oh hell no.. you could run 4 of these Engels with that power envelope: https://engelcoolers.com/collections/powered-fridge-freezers/products/sr70-rv-camping-fridge

That's just the one that she is looking at- I don't know if she looked at the specs. I can try to find her a more efficient one, but she wants a conventional front-opening fridge with a separate freezer compartment.

LP fridges are made to run off LP or 120VAC primary, the 12VDC is just for driving down the road and they would be the worst possible choice if your not going to actually use LP... get one designed to run off your batteries, you also never have to worry about getting it level so it dont burn up your fridge.. that LP one has to be within a couple degrees of level or its gonna fault and ur food is warm.

Yeah, again, we're not planning on using propane for the fridge, for that exact reason (and others). So that leaves running it off the house bank directly (or at 120VAC through an inverter, which brings Mr. Goldberg's name to mind again).

If your wiring up a 30A plug, I'd get the companion model.. infact I did, my EU2200 Companion lets me plug my 30A plug right into the trailer without a 15A converter.. so all the wiring is overkill 30A even though the genset cant output much more than 20A.. but its better than running 20A off a 15A plug and finding it welded to your 30A plug later.

I'm with you on that...

If your truck is 24v, I'd be doing a 24v house bank so you can use that big massive engine to charge it up too..

We ARE planning to use the truck's 24V alternator as another power source to charge the house bank. If our house bank ends up being 12V, we'll just need to use a 24V to 12V charger to do it, instead of a 12V to 12V charger.

2kw inverter is about as big as you can get in 12v, beyond that most are 24v.

Copy that.

Its not really rube goldberg to chain gensets together, especially if you have a 30A companion genset.. you simply put another down next to it, plug em together and now your output has doubled.. I'd at least plan to accommodate such a need if 20A power is not enough later on down the road.

...and copy...although again, I don't have room for a second generator at this time...
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
AFIK, the LP fridges have to be level regardless how you power them.. its due to the compressor design, not whats driving the compressor.. so if you have no intentions of using LP, and dont want that limitation.. dont buy one powered by LP in any way/shape/form.. The Pure Electric ones with Swingarm or similar compressors are the ones that dont really care about any tilt.

One possibility is running two electric fridges, big one for fridge with a little one for freezing.. would still be more efficient than the one your wife likes, and could provide you with far more freezer space.
 

MTVR

Well-known member
sounds like he wants to use the winch to pull is parking brakes or something.. not really sure why a giant truck needs little winches.. mebe a hand winch would be fine?

We're going to use a pair of them to operate our rear drawbridge/deck/motorcycle ramp thing, which is also going to be lifting our 500-pound spare tire mounted on the back of it. The third winch is simply to pull the motorcycles up the ramp.
 

MTVR

Well-known member
AFIK, the LP fridges have to be level regardless how you power them.. its due to the compressor design, not whats driving the compressor.. so if you have no intentions of using LP, and dont want that limitation.. dont buy one powered by LP in any way/shape/form.. The Pure Electric ones with Swingarm or similar compressors are the ones that dont really care about any tilt.

Wow, I didn't know that. I thought it was just the propane that got shut off when it was tilted. Sounds like we're still shopping...
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
my dad burnt up the LP fridge in his RV thinking the same thing, it faulted out for not being level.. he thought, oh well I'm on shore power its fine.. cleared the fault without actually leveling it then it burnt up the compressor.. THEN he read the manual and it said do not clear the fault unless the fridge is level or you'll burn it up.. oops.
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
We're going to use a pair of them to operate our rear drawbridge/deck/motorcycle ramp thing, which is also going to be lifting our 500-pound spare tire mounted on the back of it. The third winch is simply to pull the motorcycles up the ramp.

For pulling the motor cycle up you see Warn's Drill Winch? https://www.warn.com/500-lb-drill-winch-910500 I been wanting one for a good while to replace my comealong.. Its what I'd use for getting bigger toys into my toy hauler ramp when that day finally comes.

So the rear deck/drawbridge could be offset by weights/springs so lifting it could be done by hand like many toy haulers, stopping it at 90 degree deck mode might snapping some folding supports in place that lock it safely in deck mode.. or mebe just some guy wires that are easy to deploy.

Tires gonna be tricky, those wheels too big for any hand winch I bet.. you got real winches on these for pulling you out? mebe mounting structure just has some pulleys mounted that let you use the vehicle's winch for raising/lowering.. or with proper leverage the Drill Winch could be used.
 

MTVR

Well-known member
For pulling the motor cycle up you see Warn's Drill Winch? https://www.warn.com/500-lb-drill-winch-910500 I been wanting one for a good while to replace my comealong.. Its what I'd use for getting bigger toys into my toy hauler ramp when that day finally comes.

That's an interesting idea, but that would take way too many hands- With our current design, I can use both hands to guide my motorcycle up the ramp, while using the winch's wireless remote control between two fingers.

So the rear deck/drawbridge could be offset by weights/springs so lifting it could be done by hand like many toy haulers,

That would take some doing- toy hauler doors weigh nothing compared to this. If the drawbridge weighs a couple hundred pounds, and my 200 pound self is standing on it with my 400 pound motorcycle, and there's a 500-pound spare tire strapped to a spare tire carrier that weighs a hundred pounds or so...that's still gonna be way below the combined 7,000-pound pulling power of those two winches, but it's certainly not a little thing.

stopping it at 90 degree deck mode might snapping some folding supports in place that lock it safely in deck mode.. or mebe just some guy wires that are easy to deploy.

Yes, we considered that. But since these winches have automatic load-holding brakes, none of that is necessary.

Tires gonna be tricky, those wheels too big for any hand winch I bet.. you got real winches on these for pulling you out? mebe mounting structure just has some pulleys mounted that let you use the vehicle's winch for raising/lowering.. or with proper leverage the Drill Winch could be used.

So far, we have full-time torque-biasing six-wheel drive, five selectable lockers, two separate CTIS systems, traction control, a 100,000 pound kinetic recovery strap, a fair amount of off-road driving and self-recovery experience, and what little good judgement I can muster. Beyond that, there is always my cell phone and wallet. We plan to install a 25,000-pound 24V winch at some point.
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
well then since you already have a 24v system you could test it out before committing on house battery, find a nice converter and see if your winch overloads it or runs fine off it pulling a load you expect it to see.

Another option would be slap a single 12v agm into a seperate bank, with a small ~10-15A dc charger off the main that only comes on when needed.. that would let you run big 12v intermittent loads off that, leaving your big LFP bank @ 24v to feed inverters, lights, fridges, fans, subchargers, havc, etc.. but you could put all the winches and actuators and little deployment motors all off that AGM thats capable of delivering amps on demand and will otherwise be always charged.
 
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MTVR

Well-known member
Another option would be slap a single 12v agm into a seperate bank, with a small ~10-15A dc charger off the main that only comes on when needed.. that would let you run big 12v intermittent loads off that, leaving your big LFP bank @ 24v to feed inverters, lights, fridges, fans, subchargers, havc, etc.. but you could put all the winches and actuators and little deployment motors all off that AGM thats capable of delivering amps on demand and will otherwise be always charged.

Yeah, I was thinking of that. Maybe I'm related to Mr. Goldberg... :)
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
Are there any 24v truck accessories you intend to use while parked, like the air compressor, lights or anything? or is all that fine to be engine driven.. that would be another good reason for a 24v house bank is you can run those off your big bank as needed.. and use your house bank for jump starting your truck.
 

MTVR

Well-known member
Are there any 24v truck accessories you intend to use while parked, like the air compressor, lights or anything? or is all that fine to be engine driven..

No.

...that would be another good reason for a 24v house bank is you can run those off your big bank as needed.. and use your house bank for jump starting your truck.

The truck has a master battery disconnect switch that gets turned off every night after parking for the evening, and I expect to find the chassis batteries in the morning in pretty much the same condition that they were last night when I disconnected them.
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
I could get more goldberg lol, I bet you have more than one alternator, or could fit more than its already got.. throw a 12v alternator into the mix, make a 12v rail thats EITHER powered by your house bank on a 12v step down, or by the alternator.. so when you need big amps @ 12v or 24v, just fire up the engine and you got as much as you could need.

One way or another your gonna have a dual voltage setup, the key is getting the most out of it with your design.. appliances are inherently more efficient at higher voltage, so it seems silly not to take advantage of it.. a bunch of small wins in efficiency can start compounding and drastically improve performance, and the opposite can occur.
 

Joe917

Explorer
For an upright electric fridge look at Novakool. Pretty happy with ours.
 

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