How hard is the ARB bumper install?

I'm mechanically inclined and have the tools, I'm just interested in information from someone who has done one. The vehicle is a 2001 LR Disco SE7 and I'll install the ARB winch capable bumper. One other question; I will eventually install a winch, but not at the time of the initial bumper install. Will the bumper have to come off again to complete the winch install? I am trying to prioritize and order my mods to make the most sense. Should OME springs be first? I haven't bought any of these parts yet, so I am open to advice on the order. I'm anxious to be rid of the stock bumper. Thanks.
 
L

LeoLR

Guest
If you arent a hard core off-roader and just a trail/overlander the ARB bumper will mork great for you. If you do serious off-roading more than once are twice a year you need a slime bumper otherwise your going to dent up that ARB. Still a very good bumper and great for trail rigs.

But I would start with heavy duty OME spring in the front and medium in the rear. It will level it out even with the added wieght of the winch. I would do suspension first with a set of 265/75R16 tires. Then worry about the bumper.

I would hunt down a used ARB while you get a Warn M8000 new. That would be my second mod. Do it all at once so you dont have to take it back off again. Its not the hardest job ever but its still a pain and you need helpers.

Third would be a rear bumper and sliders/still protectors.

After you do the suspension I would budget getting together a nice recovery set before the bumper, including winch stuff (snatch block, tree strap, anchor), CB, and a high lift.
 

jgdisco2

Adventurer
i would put protection up there on the list..diff guards are a priority if u wheel it..as are sliders. then i would get the lift and tires and then bumpers..ect
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
Yes, you need the HD suspension before you put the bumper and winch or your truck will sit like a Funnycar. ;)

It took me a few evenings to put my bumper and winch on, but I was told it could be done in an hour. <shrug> I took my time and did it right. The 03-04 model maybe be more involved than the others as I had to run vertical bolts up through the frame which required a special drill bit. Nothing super special, but longer than a typical drill bit, had to get a special order from a machine shop supply company. I'm not sure if you have to do that on the earlier models or not.

I think if you put the winch on after the bumper, you'll have to take the bumper back off.
 

Oilworker

Explorer
First fitting of the bumper will take a while, especially as you have to mark and drill these 2 upper holes that are nonexistant in your frame.

When it comes to the winch you´ll have to take the bumper off again, but here a forklift can come handy.

4862506.jpg


My advice would be to collect the bits and pieces you need and then swap the springs when you install and mount the winch. Just by adding the bumper you won´t really need stronger springs in the front (if they´re still not too old, that is).

So long,

Robert
 

AxeAngel

Expedition Leader
If you arent a hard core off-roader and just a trail/overlander the ARB bumper will mork great for you. If you do serious off-roading more than once are twice a year you need a slime bumper otherwise your going to dent up that ARB. Still a very good bumper and great for trail rigs.

You DO NOT need a slim (no E) line bumper to do serious offroading.

It is just one of the many bumper types out there. Many many people do not have slim line bumpers that do hardcore offroading.

-Sam
 

AxeAngel

Expedition Leader
The problem with the ARB bumper on the DiscoII is that it mounts to the crush cans(airbag compliant model), the crush cans are aluminum and will get crushed/bend when using the front recover points or winching. Subsequently the bumper will bend into your fenders and your head and your light (ask me how I know).

To get the most out of your truck do the following.

1) Most important, drive it stock. Learn how to negotiate the trails. If you can drive well and know your rig and its limits you dont need a lot else. Disco2s are immensely capable.
2) Look to see if you have CDL enabled. If not then look to see if you have the CDL nipple.
2a) If CDL nipple but no way to select, then buy a shifter or make a $10 shifter like mine
3) Good Tires. Depending on your terrain A/T or M/T. Trim your front bumper, remove the lower air dam first, this will help a lot on rubbing with larger tires and greatly improve approach angle. Also get a good recovery kit (I have 4 shackles, 1 snatch block, 1 tree saver, 1 snatch strap, gloves, winch hook, 25 ft of Grade 8 5/8" high vis chain, 6ft bridle strap, etc) also get a tire patch kit. If you need buy a come along or a hi-lift with winching accessories.
4/5 Dependant on terrain) Protection(rock sliders, diff guards)
4/5 Dependant on terrain) Suspension, 2" Spring/ shock combo medium duty or heavy duty depending on how much trail riding vs DD you use it for. Dont get spacers, do it right the first time. OME or RTE or L8. Stick with 2"
6) Bumpers, front and rear. Only benefit of front bumper after trimming is that you get recovery points and option of winch. Your rear bumper will need to be replaced way before your front if you trim your front. The departure angle is the weak point in terms of bumpers.

If you follow this list and spend the time learning your rig, by the time you get to point 5 you will tackle harder terrain than 95% of the people with more built up trucks. Too many people throw money at their rigs without really learning its capability first.

All of the above presumed you have done the basic maintenance first(U-joints, fluids, coolant system alteration, etc).

Let me know if you have any other questions.
-Sam
 
Last edited:

pangaea

Adventurer
1. Put front and rear recovery points on your rig. JATE rings should work well up front, a Class III mounting point in the back. DONT leave the pavement without the basic necessities.

2. Buy a good recovery kit. Lots of places are offering all in one kits now, Warn, Viking, etc.

3. Learn how to drive the thing in it's semi-stock form. Once you learn how to modulate the traction control along with the CDL (see below), it'll be pretty darn capable on the trail.

4. Put some basic protection on the vehicle. Diff guards and rock sliders first. front bull bar later.

4.5. If you want to improve approach angle, cut down the front bumper, or find a dirt cheap "S" front bumper.

5. Put a CDL kit in it.

6. Off road tires and a suspension lift.

Sorry, but I don't think a slimline front bumper and HD rear bumper are as critical as many claim them to be. Careful driving, good spotting and a realization that conquering an obstacle on the first try is not a validation of your manhood go a LONG way.
 

AxeAngel

Expedition Leader
1. Put front and rear recovery points on your rig. JATE rings should work well up front, a Class III mounting point in the back. DONT leave the pavement without the basic necessities.

2. Buy a good recovery kit. Lots of places are offering all in one kits now, Warn, Viking, etc.

3. Learn how to drive the thing in it's semi-stock form. Once you learn how to modulate the traction control along with the CDL (see below), it'll be pretty darn capable on the trail.

4. Put some basic protection on the vehicle. Diff guards and rock sliders first. front bull bar later.

4.5. If you want to improve approach angle, cut down the front bumper, or find a dirt cheap "S" front bumper.

5. Put a CDL kit in it.

6. Off road tires and a suspension lift.

Sorry, but I don't think a slimline front bumper and HD rear bumper are as critical as many claim them to be. Careful driving, good spotting and a realization that conquering an obstacle on the first try is not a validation of your manhood go a LONG way.

Pretty much verbatim for what I said :victory:

-Sam
 

R_Lefebvre

Expedition Leader
The problem with the ARB bumper on the DiscoII is that it mounts to the crush cans(airbag compliant model), the crush cans are aluminum and will get crushed/bend when using the front recover points or winching. Subsequently the bumper will bend into your fenders and your head and your light (ask me how I know).

The 03-04 ARB, and I think the earlier ones, they don't mount to the aluminum crush cans. They come with new steel frame extensions. I think the cause of the tweaking was the way the old extensions mounted, using only the two cross bolts per side. They could slip on the frame. You couldn't possibly crank down enough on them because the frame would just crush. That's why, from my research, it seems the newer bumpers have the vertical pinning bolts.

I wonder how much of the bad reputation of the ARB is carried over from the earlier design?

I'm not sure, it's just what I've seen.

I believe an ARB engineer actually stated that each frame extension takes 14,000lbs to bend.
 
I have a pretty complete recovery package with a Hi-lift jack. My business takes me off-road on a regular basis and my first truck was a 1973 Jeep 3/4 ton truck that I bought in 1977. This Discovery is new to me. I've had it now since the end of May. I bought 16" rims from a P38 and had BFG 265/75R16 tires mounted. I plan to be the terminal owner of this truck, so I'm trying to get everything in order the way I want it. I don't do rock crawling, but I do need to have a dependable off-highway vehicle. Thanks for all your help.
 
I have thought about cutting down the stock bumper for the mean time. Who has done that? AxeAngel, tell me about your $10.00 CDL shifter. Thanks.
 

AxeAngel

Expedition Leader
The 03-04 ARB, and I think the earlier ones, they don't mount to the aluminum crush cans. They come with new steel frame extensions. I think the cause of the tweaking was the way the old extensions mounted, using only the two cross bolts per side. They could slip on the frame. You couldn't possibly crank down enough on them because the frame would just crush. That's why, from my research, it seems the newer bumpers have the vertical pinning bolts.

I had an 03 model. Mounted to the crush cans. Bent everywhere.

-Sam
 

AxeAngel

Expedition Leader
I have thought about cutting down the stock bumper for the mean time. Who has done that? AxeAngel, tell me about your $10.00 CDL shifter. Thanks.


David, Follow the lines on your bumper, just trim the lower air dam.

First you need to make sure you have the CDL nipple. Do you know what to look for and where? Having a lever is useless unless your transfer case has the ability to lock. Not all D2 have the lockable tcase.

Sounds like you are well versed in the offroad world. Have you rebuilt your front driveshaft? It's a ticking time bomb...

-Sam
 

JEFFSGTP

Observer
The problem with the ARB bumper on the DiscoII is that it mounts to the crush cans(airbag compliant model), the crush cans are aluminum and will get crushed/bend when using the front recover points or winching. Subsequently the bumper will bend into your fenders and your head and your light (ask me how I know).
-Sam

That is why you take the time to box in/replace the crush cans so that doesn't happen. Street Wolfs are welded up and painted to match, not that you can see them from outside anyway. the ARB is an EXCELLENT bumper...I cant stand the look of the RTE and like bumpers. I want a big Heavy Duty bumper...if that means I get an ARB and weld up the crush cans then so be it.

Just $0.02:coffeedrink:

Personally I would build from the ground up...do suspension (lift) and armor upgrades, then Front Bumper & Winch, Sliders, Rear Bumper, etc.
 

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